im hoping someone can shed some light on this
got my car mapped my andy forrest and made 354 road map
I could feel an immediate difference once car reached 4.5k+, a much bigger surge or torque
now this was fine and I was happy but it didn't last long, infact it only lasted that day!
after words it still boosted/ boosts and it can still move pretty quickly but just doesn't have that torque kick it originally had
I emailed andy and he said that the map cant change so he would suggest looking for air leaks, but to my annoyance I can not find any

engine management light illuminates but goes out as it should
car has a front mount and I have tried soapy water over joints and no bubbled have appeared from what I can see

any other way to check or other items possibly at fault?

oh and car was mapped at 1.45 bar of boost if it makes a difference

 

Have you had car plugged into diagnostics. Joe

 

Is car still making 1.45 Bar of boost
Are you still using same fuel,
What ecu is it,
Try disconnecting battery, 10 seconds, reconnect, depending on ecu, this will reset map,
I am sure Andy would check it for you, but if no fault of mapper, you might get charged for this check,
If map is self learning, it might of pulled timing back for some reason

I could also be wrong about these things,

Bez

 

unsure of boost pressure as I do not have a boost gauge
yeh still using 97 shell and only shell
stock ecu
andy says that map cannot change and I remember him saying to me that if I change the battery I need to change the boost setting to suit my need, either low or high and I know how to do it but its not that its set on low boost
according to andy he only works on his own car but he will map other peoples cars
map self learn? iam not a 100% sure on this 1 bud, do u recon that it will be?

iv not had it on the diagnostics because there is no eml, will check this on monday

 

get a smoke test done for air leak detection

 

So it was mapped on 97 shell and not 99?

If you have reset the ecu the learned data is erased, not the map itself, and it has to learn ign adv again. Have you tried switching maps to see if it is definitely on the high boost setting.

I would seriously doubt that anything is majorly at fault, its just a case of finding it.

 

if its a newage don't disconnect battery as it doesn't reset ecu it doesn't help IAM's did it to mines made it a lot worse, make sure same fuel could be bad batch

 

I completely agree I don't think there is anything majorly wrong, but its very frustrating paying a lot of money for parts and mapping and them for the car to do what its done

its definitely mapped on shell 97

I have ordered a boost gauge from r-spec to see exactly what boost its producing, im guessing the air temp will not have affected it that much because it was a pretty cold day? but I live in Scotland so its always cold I suppose

 

wouldn't have thought it would be a bad batch because its been like this since 8th march, was mapped on the 7th and is a greedy ******* so need fuel quite a lot as we all know

was going to do gas test and double check for codes today but didn't have time/forgot

iam off work 2moro so I will also try changing the boost settings just to check but I don't imagine that my car would accelerate the way it does running actuator pressure

 

To chack for air leaks what I normally do is remove the air filter (if using a pod filter instead of the original airbox)and replace it with a pvc end cap with a tyre valve aralditet into it.
Then you can pressureise the system with an air compressor (2 bar max)
You can find leaks easier that way, as the engine does not have to run, so any leakage will be easier to spot.

 

Do you have a picture of the thong you've made as I do not fully understand

 

Thing**** lol was a genuine mistake

 

I do not have a picture handy.
It's really very simple.

When you take of the air filter you measure the rubber hose it connects to.
If that is (as an example) 78mm go to a DIY store and buy a PVC pipe cap of the same diameter, or a little smaller.



Then buy a tyre valve from a local garage


Drill a small hole in the endcap so you can put in the valve.
Also use some type of glue/araldite to make sure you get a good seal.

Place the cap with the valve into the hose where you removed the air filter, and use a jubilee clip to tighten everything together.

In essence you have replaced the air filter with the cap.
Now use a air compressor and a tyre filling gauge to pressurize the system.
You can now check for leaks with soapy water, but because the engine is not running you have the added advantage of maybe being able to hear the leak as well.

 

^^ what an absolutely brilliant idea! Never heard of that. Great share!

 

It works well indeed.
One of the main benefits is that you can apply slightly more pressure then the engine can pull vacuum, so you'll probably spot little leaks more easily with this setup the with running the engine.

 

Did you have an Ecutek map?

Try toggling the demister switch, foot fully to the floor, happened to me and I couldnt figure out where all the power went.

 

Long time no post but problem still here
It's defo in the high boost mode got a boost gauge and it does read 1.5 bar some times lower 1.2, 1.3
Been away for abit but no tried the cap will do it 2 moz as soon as I finish work
I really don't want to give done1 loads of money to help but I think it's starting to point that way
Fingers crossed I find it 2 moz

 

sounds like its pulling a bit of ignition as I had that problem previously, I made sure the knock sensors were clean/rust free and had good connection to block and was correct angle, in the end I changed it out and cured it for a while

 

is the engine on standard internals? also have you checked for oil in intercooler?

 

Top bloke. Sounds a great idea to check for leaks without running engine

 

What does oil in the intercooler signify? Leak from the turbo?

 

Depends how much. Most will have some oily residue from the breathers. Lot's is bad and would be turbo leaking oil or too much blow from the breathers.

 

Have you tried changing your boost solenoid ?
Is yours a plug n play or a wire crimp job

 

Stock boost solinoid, wouldn't that bring the eml on? Will try cleaning the knock sensor
I did notice it wouldn't pull anymore than 1 bar
I tried for air leaks on the only 1 I could find was right at the maf sensor but I resealed it ( not sure if it's sealed properly because it came with my japspeed ic kit and is a **** fit)
It's really starting to annoy me now