trouble after mapping
#1
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trouble after mapping
im hoping someone can shed some light on this
got my car mapped my andy forrest and made 354 road map
I could feel an immediate difference once car reached 4.5k+, a much bigger surge or torque
now this was fine and I was happy but it didn't last long, infact it only lasted that day!
after words it still boosted/ boosts and it can still move pretty quickly but just doesn't have that torque kick it originally had
I emailed andy and he said that the map cant change so he would suggest looking for air leaks, but to my annoyance I can not find any
engine management light illuminates but goes out as it should
car has a front mount and I have tried soapy water over joints and no bubbled have appeared from what I can see
any other way to check or other items possibly at fault?
oh and car was mapped at 1.45 bar of boost if it makes a difference
got my car mapped my andy forrest and made 354 road map
I could feel an immediate difference once car reached 4.5k+, a much bigger surge or torque
now this was fine and I was happy but it didn't last long, infact it only lasted that day!
after words it still boosted/ boosts and it can still move pretty quickly but just doesn't have that torque kick it originally had
I emailed andy and he said that the map cant change so he would suggest looking for air leaks, but to my annoyance I can not find any
engine management light illuminates but goes out as it should
car has a front mount and I have tried soapy water over joints and no bubbled have appeared from what I can see
any other way to check or other items possibly at fault?
oh and car was mapped at 1.45 bar of boost if it makes a difference
#3
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Is car still making 1.45 Bar of boost
Are you still using same fuel,
What ecu is it,
Try disconnecting battery, 10 seconds, reconnect, depending on ecu, this will reset map,
I am sure Andy would check it for you, but if no fault of mapper, you might get charged for this check,
If map is self learning, it might of pulled timing back for some reason
I could also be wrong about these things,
Bez
Are you still using same fuel,
What ecu is it,
Try disconnecting battery, 10 seconds, reconnect, depending on ecu, this will reset map,
I am sure Andy would check it for you, but if no fault of mapper, you might get charged for this check,
If map is self learning, it might of pulled timing back for some reason
I could also be wrong about these things,
Bez
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Is car still making 1.45 Bar of boost
Are you still using same fuel,
What ecu is it,
Try disconnecting battery, 10 seconds, reconnect, depending on ecu, this will reset map,
I am sure Andy would check it for you, but if no fault of mapper, you might get charged for this check,
If map is self learning, it might of pulled timing back for some reason
I could also be wrong about these things,
Bez
Are you still using same fuel,
What ecu is it,
Try disconnecting battery, 10 seconds, reconnect, depending on ecu, this will reset map,
I am sure Andy would check it for you, but if no fault of mapper, you might get charged for this check,
If map is self learning, it might of pulled timing back for some reason
I could also be wrong about these things,
Bez
unsure of boost pressure as I do not have a boost gauge
yeh still using 97 shell and only shell
stock ecu
andy says that map cannot change and I remember him saying to me that if I change the battery I need to change the boost setting to suit my need, either low or high and I know how to do it but its not that its set on low boost
according to andy he only works on his own car but he will map other peoples cars
map self learn? iam not a 100% sure on this 1 bud, do u recon that it will be?
iv not had it on the diagnostics because there is no eml, will check this on monday
Last edited by calum4492; 04 May 2014 at 08:49 PM.
#6
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So it was mapped on 97 shell and not 99?
If you have reset the ecu the learned data is erased, not the map itself, and it has to learn ign adv again. Have you tried switching maps to see if it is definitely on the high boost setting.
I would seriously doubt that anything is majorly at fault, its just a case of finding it.
If you have reset the ecu the learned data is erased, not the map itself, and it has to learn ign adv again. Have you tried switching maps to see if it is definitely on the high boost setting.
I would seriously doubt that anything is majorly at fault, its just a case of finding it.
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#8
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So it was mapped on 97 shell and not 99?
If you have reset the ecu the learned data is erased, not the map itself, and it has to learn ign adv again. Have you tried switching maps to see if it is definitely on the high boost setting.
I would seriously doubt that anything is majorly at fault, its just a case of finding it.
If you have reset the ecu the learned data is erased, not the map itself, and it has to learn ign adv again. Have you tried switching maps to see if it is definitely on the high boost setting.
I would seriously doubt that anything is majorly at fault, its just a case of finding it.
its definitely mapped on shell 97
I have ordered a boost gauge from r-spec to see exactly what boost its producing, im guessing the air temp will not have affected it that much because it was a pretty cold day? but I live in Scotland so its always cold I suppose
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was going to do gas test and double check for codes today but didn't have time/forgot
iam off work 2moro so I will also try changing the boost settings just to check but I don't imagine that my car would accelerate the way it does running actuator pressure
Last edited by calum4492; 05 May 2014 at 11:14 PM.
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To chack for air leaks what I normally do is remove the air filter (if using a pod filter instead of the original airbox)and replace it with a pvc end cap with a tyre valve aralditet into it.
Then you can pressureise the system with an air compressor (2 bar max)
You can find leaks easier that way, as the engine does not have to run, so any leakage will be easier to spot.
Then you can pressureise the system with an air compressor (2 bar max)
You can find leaks easier that way, as the engine does not have to run, so any leakage will be easier to spot.
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I do not have a picture handy.
It's really very simple.
When you take of the air filter you measure the rubber hose it connects to.
If that is (as an example) 78mm go to a DIY store and buy a PVC pipe cap of the same diameter, or a little smaller.
Then buy a tyre valve from a local garage
Drill a small hole in the endcap so you can put in the valve.
Also use some type of glue/araldite to make sure you get a good seal.
Place the cap with the valve into the hose where you removed the air filter, and use a jubilee clip to tighten everything together.
In essence you have replaced the air filter with the cap.
Now use a air compressor and a tyre filling gauge to pressurize the system.
You can now check for leaks with soapy water, but because the engine is not running you have the added advantage of maybe being able to hear the leak as well.
It's really very simple.
When you take of the air filter you measure the rubber hose it connects to.
If that is (as an example) 78mm go to a DIY store and buy a PVC pipe cap of the same diameter, or a little smaller.
Then buy a tyre valve from a local garage
Drill a small hole in the endcap so you can put in the valve.
Also use some type of glue/araldite to make sure you get a good seal.
Place the cap with the valve into the hose where you removed the air filter, and use a jubilee clip to tighten everything together.
In essence you have replaced the air filter with the cap.
Now use a air compressor and a tyre filling gauge to pressurize the system.
You can now check for leaks with soapy water, but because the engine is not running you have the added advantage of maybe being able to hear the leak as well.
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It works well indeed.
One of the main benefits is that you can apply slightly more pressure then the engine can pull vacuum, so you'll probably spot little leaks more easily with this setup the with running the engine.
One of the main benefits is that you can apply slightly more pressure then the engine can pull vacuum, so you'll probably spot little leaks more easily with this setup the with running the engine.
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Long time no post but problem still here
It's defo in the high boost mode got a boost gauge and it does read 1.5 bar some times lower 1.2, 1.3
Been away for abit but no tried the cap will do it 2 moz as soon as I finish work
I really don't want to give done1 loads of money to help but I think it's starting to point that way
Fingers crossed I find it 2 moz
It's defo in the high boost mode got a boost gauge and it does read 1.5 bar some times lower 1.2, 1.3
Been away for abit but no tried the cap will do it 2 moz as soon as I finish work
I really don't want to give done1 loads of money to help but I think it's starting to point that way
Fingers crossed I find it 2 moz
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sounds like its pulling a bit of ignition as I had that problem previously, I made sure the knock sensors were clean/rust free and had good connection to block and was correct angle, in the end I changed it out and cured it for a while
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Top bloke. Sounds a great idea to check for leaks without running engine
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Stock boost solinoid, wouldn't that bring the eml on? Will try cleaning the knock sensor
I did notice it wouldn't pull anymore than 1 bar
I tried for air leaks on the only 1 I could find was right at the maf sensor but I resealed it ( not sure if it's sealed properly because it came with my japspeed ic kit and is a **** fit)
It's really starting to annoy me now
I did notice it wouldn't pull anymore than 1 bar
I tried for air leaks on the only 1 I could find was right at the maf sensor but I resealed it ( not sure if it's sealed properly because it came with my japspeed ic kit and is a **** fit)
It's really starting to annoy me now
Last edited by calum4492; 27 May 2014 at 10:39 PM.
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