Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

Would anyone be interested in a guide to fit gauges?

I've bought a set for my STI and plan to fit them tomorrow when I finish work.

They aren't anything special but most gauges are installed in the same way apart from Defi's which needs an additional controller, but the senders are the same (almost Defi's use 1/8 BSP threads while most other gauges use 1/8NPT, but regardless, the senders go in the same places)

Milamber

iTrader: (2)

Ooh ooh I know how to do this


1. Purchase gauges

2. Phone Cornelius

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

I had some stainless steel adaptor pipes made up a last year which makes fitting easier and I can retain the factory oil pressure switch also adds a touch of bling

FLAT ERIC

iTrader: (1)

I do like a good guide.

wongy

yeah im up for the fitting guide mate and if you can keep hold of those adaptor pipes as well for me please mate

cheers

ghostface

iTrader: (2)

yes please for the guide.

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

Just finished putting the gauges in, had a call last night I was required at work this morning so it's not conclusive (wiring not fully detailed) but the basics are covered.

Will make a start after the poser's

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

Ok here goes.

Tools needed:

22mm socket (Oil pressure switch)
10mm spanner
12mm spanner
14mm spanner
8mm Allen key
wire cutters
heat shrink tubing
solder
soldering iron
philips screwdriver
Thread sealant
copious amounts of coffee

The gauges I got are Ketgauge, which are rebranded Autogauge and got oil pressure, oil temp and boost.

Sender units and pipework: (The clear tubing and white plastic T-piece was not used)




First off I'll start off with the oil pressure.

The factory oil pressure switch is located under the alternator, so this needs to be removed. using a 10mm spanner, remove the 3 nut/bolts holding the belt guards in place:





take the battery positive lead off, and undo the nut holding the power cable and remove, also take off the wiring plug.
using a 12mm spanner, undo the alternator locking bolt, loosen the pivot bolt and the tensioner to remove the drive belt, remove the locking bolt, take the pivot bolt out and lift the alternator out.

Once the alternator is out, you will see the oil pressure switch:



Remove with a 22mm socket:

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

I had some oil pipe made up for this job. It's made from PTFE tubing with stainless steel fittings and overbraiding with a T-piece so the factory oil pressure switch is retained.

Using thread sealant, cover the threads and screw the pipe into the block, and screw the oil pressure switch and gauge sender onto the T-peice. Extend the oil pressure switch cable. You can use a peice of cable with a male crimped terminal on one end and a female on the other, but I cut the plug off and soldered a new length in.



Refit the alternator/belt/cover.

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

Oil temperature.

It's generally regarded that cylinder No. 3 is the hottest and as it happens, Subaru have kindly put a threaded bung in there!

The bung is located in front of the inspection cover on the bellhousing, so the top mount intercooler has to be removed, as I have a front mount, the pipe work is removed.



Using an 8mm Allen key (with ball joint), remove the bung.

I drilled the bund out with a 8.5mm drill bit and tapped a 1/8NPT taper thread, but you can buy a ready made adaptor on fleabay so all you have to do is put thread sealant on the sender and screw into place.





extend the sender cable using speake wire (as this uses a very low current, speaker cable is sufficient) refit bung/adaptor assembly back in place with thread sealant:



Refit intercooler/pipework

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

Boost:

As time was against me, for the time being - I have cable tied the boost gauge sender to my strut brace.



I removed a rubber bung from a spare outlet on the inlet manifold and using a length of silicone tubing, connected the boost sender.:



The sender unit has 3 wires, red - 12v, black - earth, white - signal. I extended the cables so the power comes from the 12v supply for the gauges.

Thread the cables from each of the senders through a grommit in the bulkhead, making sure they are clear of the steering wheel column and pedals, route round to the gauges.

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

Gauges:

I used a pillar pod and fitting is simple enough.





Fitted to car:





cables from sender unit soldered and heat shrinked, power supply taken from the cigarette lighter:



Gauges powered up:

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

I didn't have the chance to do a more detailed guide of the wiring as I wanted to get the car done for the posers so for the time being have taped the cables up out of the way, will finish this off properly tomorrow

wongy

looks good mate cant wait to give it a go for myself

G-Man1982

iTrader: (7)

those are the gauges i got for my scooby. i give you 2 months before you change them back to normal gauges. they are slow and inacurate.

nice right up tho

ghostface

iTrader: (2)

good guide,thank you.

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

try an hour mate!! oil pressure gauge has packed up already just waiting for the seller to reply.

I bought a XJ40 jag as the digital dashboard looked good at the time but got fed up with them after a week and sold the car!

G-Man1982

iTrader: (7)

did you buy them from some fella in scotland (via ebay)

i found him quite good tbh, just a shame the gauges dont work as good as they look. thats why i left them in the scooby when i sold it! lol

Cornelius

iTrader: (2)

Think so mate, bought the boost gauge from one and the oil temp and pressure from another seller as neither had the set.

Am now looking at Saga V5 gauges, £80 each but they have record/play back, peak and adjustable warning, similar to Defi but without the need for a seperate controller