Driving on motorways??
#1
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Driving on motorways??
Hi
Wonder if anyone can shead some light on this subject ?
When I had my RS Turbo, I was told when I'm driving on a motorway, not to constantly wind the turbo up? And to drive it so the revs are just below the point when the turbo kicks in...if you catch my drift ?
Is this true? Turbos are expensive parts to replace (from what I can remember!) and want to keep my new Scooby in tip top condition, but because I travel around the country when its Garden Show season, I will be using motorways!!
Will get into the habit of checking water/oil etc the night before I leave, of course!!!
Unfortunately, I cant afford a cheap run-around car to use for these journeys, so the Scoob will be my "main" form of transport!!!
Wonder if anyone can shead some light on this subject ?
When I had my RS Turbo, I was told when I'm driving on a motorway, not to constantly wind the turbo up? And to drive it so the revs are just below the point when the turbo kicks in...if you catch my drift ?
Is this true? Turbos are expensive parts to replace (from what I can remember!) and want to keep my new Scooby in tip top condition, but because I travel around the country when its Garden Show season, I will be using motorways!!
Will get into the habit of checking water/oil etc the night before I leave, of course!!!
Unfortunately, I cant afford a cheap run-around car to use for these journeys, so the Scoob will be my "main" form of transport!!!
#2
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the main thing with turbos is to allow them to cool down adequately before turing the engine off.
if you turn off the engine after a hard motorway run etc, the oil inside the turbo bearings burn and solidify, killing the bearings then the turbo shafts.
I always check my engine fluids at least once a week.
Regular servicing is also a must so you don't get a build up of carbonised crap floating around the engine
if you turn off the engine after a hard motorway run etc, the oil inside the turbo bearings burn and solidify, killing the bearings then the turbo shafts.
I always check my engine fluids at least once a week.
Regular servicing is also a must so you don't get a build up of carbonised crap floating around the engine
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Cheers for that! So the moral of the story is, its fine to use as normal on a motorway, but let it cool down more so than normal before switching off??
I will only be doing about 5k miles a year, so was going to get it services say every 3-4 months? Does this sound ok? Where do you take yours?
I will only be doing about 5k miles a year, so was going to get it services say every 3-4 months? Does this sound ok? Where do you take yours?
#5
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Em,
You'll be fine. Warming up is more important than cooling down on modern turbos. Yes you should allow them to cool but theyre water cooled anyway so its not like you have to be as **** as if it were and RST or a cos. Even though the ford turbos were water cooled too the modern turbos are much more suited to being driven and used by normal people ie (not petrolheads) so are fine even if theyre hot.
Following on from Cornelius, regular servicing is well advised and an oil change every 3k or 6 months... whichever comes first is well advised.
I went from a cossie to a scooby and like you was under the impression these scooby engines were made of ricepaper and would collapse in an instant if you didnt cover them with cotton wool but i can assure you thats not the case..
Common sense and a little love are all they need
Make sure she's warm before driving at any pace on the motorway, then just drive it how you like.
You'll be fine. Warming up is more important than cooling down on modern turbos. Yes you should allow them to cool but theyre water cooled anyway so its not like you have to be as **** as if it were and RST or a cos. Even though the ford turbos were water cooled too the modern turbos are much more suited to being driven and used by normal people ie (not petrolheads) so are fine even if theyre hot.
Following on from Cornelius, regular servicing is well advised and an oil change every 3k or 6 months... whichever comes first is well advised.
I went from a cossie to a scooby and like you was under the impression these scooby engines were made of ricepaper and would collapse in an instant if you didnt cover them with cotton wool but i can assure you thats not the case..
Common sense and a little love are all they need
Make sure she's warm before driving at any pace on the motorway, then just drive it how you like.
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Originally Posted by frayz
Common sense and a little love are all they need
Thanks for advice!!!
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Originally Posted by frayz
Tell me about it..
Im sealing wheels at the moment.. takes bloody ages
Im sealing wheels at the moment.. takes bloody ages
I'll let you get back to the wheel sealing!!! Have fun??
#9
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Totally agree with Frayz......again
Subaru's aren't as fragile as a lot of people make out, yes, there are weak points, ie tuning 2000 turbos and WRX's to over 300BHP on standard internals. And Oil pumps are prone to the relief valve stickings as mine did so hence blowing up the engine, but in general the flat 4 engines are pretty good.
In my experience with scoobies now, the first mods I'd advise to do is to get a set of good quality gauges - Oil pressure, Oil temp and boost. as these will tell you a hell of a lot about what happening inside the engine.
also, if you intend to modify your car, I'd also recommend that you have piston compressions checked before so you can get an idea of engine condition
Subaru's aren't as fragile as a lot of people make out, yes, there are weak points, ie tuning 2000 turbos and WRX's to over 300BHP on standard internals. And Oil pumps are prone to the relief valve stickings as mine did so hence blowing up the engine, but in general the flat 4 engines are pretty good.
In my experience with scoobies now, the first mods I'd advise to do is to get a set of good quality gauges - Oil pressure, Oil temp and boost. as these will tell you a hell of a lot about what happening inside the engine.
also, if you intend to modify your car, I'd also recommend that you have piston compressions checked before so you can get an idea of engine condition
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Originally Posted by Cornelius
And Oil pumps are prone to the relief valve stickings as mine did so hence blowing up the engine,
#11
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Originally Posted by EmEm
Ok now your scaring me !!!!! How do I, if I can, prevent this from happening!!! Had to rebuild my RST 1 week after buying it, don't fancy going through all that again....plus listen to my sis saying "see, told you so..."
Cornelius is only telling you of whats common but in reality it doesnt happen that often. Roger Clark do a modified pump if youre really that worried about it but TBH its just one of those things.
Just enjoy the car.
As for sealant, im using Poorboys wheel sealant, like a cream, apply and let it set. Then buff it off. Apply about 4 or so coats to each rim inside and out every few months and brake dust will not stick to the rim at all and just wipes off
#12
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no reason to be scared, as long as the car has been serviced regularly.
Oil pump failure isn't that common, unless you've got a seriously modded car.
I've put a Roger Clark Modified oil pump on my car for safety
The reason I recommend gauges is to give you a little bit of a warning period, ie, if the oil pressure drops/significantly fluctuates and the oil temp gets hotter, the oil pump is struggling. using the water temp alone is no good as it won't show the oil temps soaring
Oil pump failure isn't that common, unless you've got a seriously modded car.
I've put a Roger Clark Modified oil pump on my car for safety
The reason I recommend gauges is to give you a little bit of a warning period, ie, if the oil pressure drops/significantly fluctuates and the oil temp gets hotter, the oil pump is struggling. using the water temp alone is no good as it won't show the oil temps soaring
Last edited by Cornelius; 03 September 2006 at 06:13 PM.
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Originally Posted by EmEm
Where do you take yours?
Dave
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