ECU Warning light?
01 June 2013, 09:13 PM
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ECU Warning light?
The dash ECU light goes out on starting, then comes on after about 30 seconds whether idling or moving.
If you turn off then immediatley restart you can drive for miles without the light coming back on.
Park up for 5 minutes, engine still hot,restart and the whole process is repeated.
No fault codes registered in the Ecutek
No symptoms noticed in driving.
Before this started i gave the underside a bit of a pressure wash as the was a load of oil from a leaking cooler hose.
Can't see any dodgy sensor leads
On replacing the hoses I also did an oil change so possibly ovefilled it a touch, but levels seem ok.
Can't think of any other causes, any advice on where to start looking would be appreciated.
Ta Andy
If you turn off then immediatley restart you can drive for miles without the light coming back on.
Park up for 5 minutes, engine still hot,restart and the whole process is repeated.
No fault codes registered in the Ecutek
No symptoms noticed in driving.
Before this started i gave the underside a bit of a pressure wash as the was a load of oil from a leaking cooler hose.
Can't see any dodgy sensor leads
On replacing the hoses I also did an oil change so possibly ovefilled it a touch, but levels seem ok.
Can't think of any other causes, any advice on where to start looking would be appreciated.
Ta Andy
02 July 2013, 10:17 PM
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Hi Andy
I have got a similar problem on my MY99 Impreza. I cannot get a error code reading from the dash port or on a pin-out reading directly from the ECU.
When I drive the car above 40-50mph on motorways my CEL light comes on and will stay on until I switch off the car. I can then start it up immediately and the light won't come on until I reach 40-50mph.
It has been driving me crazy, to the point where I'm thinking that a previous owner had an induction kit fitted and when selling the car on never had the ECU reset. Well, that's my thinking on the matter.
I want to take my car to Woodlands Motor Company (nearest Subaru dealership) and see if they can get anywhere with the problem.
I need to get the gearbox remapped for Fuel Economy, as I've got an auto g/box fitted.
My question is; can I get my car remapped and how much will it cost for a N/A Sport?
Can I set the standard 'Drive' setting on the g/box to fuel economy, but at the same time set the 'Power' setting on the g/box to give me a more aggressive drive from the car?
I'm definitely not expecting miracles from the car or wanting it to out perform any other sport model out there, but a bit more of an improved gear change will be welcomed.
Cheers
Dyllan
I have got a similar problem on my MY99 Impreza. I cannot get a error code reading from the dash port or on a pin-out reading directly from the ECU.
When I drive the car above 40-50mph on motorways my CEL light comes on and will stay on until I switch off the car. I can then start it up immediately and the light won't come on until I reach 40-50mph.
It has been driving me crazy, to the point where I'm thinking that a previous owner had an induction kit fitted and when selling the car on never had the ECU reset. Well, that's my thinking on the matter.
I want to take my car to Woodlands Motor Company (nearest Subaru dealership) and see if they can get anywhere with the problem.
I need to get the gearbox remapped for Fuel Economy, as I've got an auto g/box fitted.
My question is; can I get my car remapped and how much will it cost for a N/A Sport?
Can I set the standard 'Drive' setting on the g/box to fuel economy, but at the same time set the 'Power' setting on the g/box to give me a more aggressive drive from the car?
I'm definitely not expecting miracles from the car or wanting it to out perform any other sport model out there, but a bit more of an improved gear change will be welcomed.
Cheers
Dyllan
08 July 2013, 05:39 AM
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The dash ECU light goes out on starting, then comes on after about 30 seconds whether idling or moving.
If you turn off then immediatley restart you can drive for miles without the light coming back on.
Park up for 5 minutes, engine still hot,restart and the whole process is repeated.
No fault codes registered in the Ecutek
No symptoms noticed in driving.
Before this started i gave the underside a bit of a pressure wash as the was a load of oil from a leaking cooler hose.
Can't see any dodgy sensor leads
On replacing the hoses I also did an oil change so possibly ovefilled it a touch, but levels seem ok.
Can't think of any other causes, any advice on where to start looking would be appreciated.
Ta Andy
Park up for 5 minutes, engine still hot,restart and the whole process is repeated.
No fault codes registered in the Ecutek
No symptoms noticed in driving.
Before this started i gave the underside a bit of a pressure wash as the was a load of oil from a leaking cooler hose.
Can't see any dodgy sensor leads
On replacing the hoses I also did an oil change so possibly ovefilled it a touch, but levels seem ok.
Can't think of any other causes, any advice on where to start looking would be appreciated.
Ta Andy
Not sure if you have tried this, but check out...
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.p...eadingECUCodes
After not getting any error codes from my ECU when checking via the dash port or pin-out I used the "manual" way of checking the errors by connecting the two black connectors under the dash and turning on the ignition. I got two separate codes from the "morse code" flashes from my "Check Engine" light.
I've got 32 & 22, so now I can buy the replacement sensors and fit them myself and hopefully my CEL problem will disappear.
22 = Knock Sensor (which was cleaned, but it is obviousl damaged)
32 = Oxygen Sensor OR A/F Sensor #1/#2 System
Hope this all helps, if you haven't sorted the problem already.
Regards
Dyllan
10 July 2013, 11:21 AM
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I am currently searching for the two sensors I need to get my Sport back to a full bill o' health, but not sure about the Oxygen sensor, as I can either get an import part or a Bosch part (which is £200 cheaper). I'm definitely buying the genuine knock sensor, as it is a no-brainer on that one.
If the Bosch will work just as well as the import part then I'd rather buy that and save myself the cash. Plus I'll be fitting them myself, as getting to know my car can only help me in the long run. I'm an independent person and having to wait on others before I can drive my car again is a mind killer to me.
Any help on the matter will be greatly appreciated, as my CEL has got me at the end of my tether...
Genuine Knock Sensor:
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
Lambda Oxygen Sensor:
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
OR
http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/partsea...dlist=LP-64611
If the Bosch will work just as well as the import part then I'd rather buy that and save myself the cash. Plus I'll be fitting them myself, as getting to know my car can only help me in the long run. I'm an independent person and having to wait on others before I can drive my car again is a mind killer to me.
Any help on the matter will be greatly appreciated, as my CEL has got me at the end of my tether...
Genuine Knock Sensor:
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
Lambda Oxygen Sensor:
http://www.importcarparts.co.uk/part...en=&searchKey=
OR
http://www.lambdapower.co.uk/partsea...dlist=LP-64611
19 July 2013, 05:32 PM
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Changed both my knock sensor & oxygen/lambda sensor myself, I was told by the auto shop that they couldn't figure out my CEL problem. So I did a diagnostic and found the problem and rectified it.
I feel that whenever my car has been in for repairs it has come back 90% repaired and has always had something not repaired as said by the mechanic.
So whilst I was replacing the knock sensor my eyes caught sight of a badly split inner gaitor. I was extremely gutted, as I was promised that it was repaired and safe to drive.
Thus I am now looking at finding somebody that really loves working on Subaru's, whether it be a Sport or Turbo. I've now got the split p/s inner gaitor that needs replacing.
I feel that whenever my car has been in for repairs it has come back 90% repaired and has always had something not repaired as said by the mechanic.
So whilst I was replacing the knock sensor my eyes caught sight of a badly split inner gaitor. I was extremely gutted, as I was promised that it was repaired and safe to drive.
Thus I am now looking at finding somebody that really loves working on Subaru's, whether it be a Sport or Turbo. I've now got the split p/s inner gaitor that needs replacing.
Last edited by Bushy-N/A; 19 July 2013 at 05:46 PM.
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