simtek problem
23 January 2013, 08:50 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
simtek problem
for those of yop that dont know
car is standard type r spec so vf23 plus front mount exhaust and the usual other parts plus the simtek ecu
the car runs perfectly even though i have removed all theparts from one shell and fitted to another and modify the maf wiring for the air temperature sensor and i think this is where my problem lies
basically the car starting is a bit rough but once warm the tickover is very high but when i unplug the air temp senosor the idle drops to what sounds about right
now i dont think i have wired it in wrong as i have done it as per exactly how i removed it from the other car where all was fine but there is just this problem and the fact that sometimes it can miss pop and bang all over the shop from cold but i think this is more down to a poorly charged battery
anyone have any ideas as to what my fault could be or a part number for the air temp sensor that is used?
cheers
car is standard type r spec so vf23 plus front mount exhaust and the usual other parts plus the simtek ecu
the car runs perfectly even though i have removed all theparts from one shell and fitted to another and modify the maf wiring for the air temperature sensor and i think this is where my problem lies
basically the car starting is a bit rough but once warm the tickover is very high but when i unplug the air temp senosor the idle drops to what sounds about right
now i dont think i have wired it in wrong as i have done it as per exactly how i removed it from the other car where all was fine but there is just this problem and the fact that sometimes it can miss pop and bang all over the shop from cold but i think this is more down to a poorly charged battery
anyone have any ideas as to what my fault could be or a part number for the air temp sensor that is used?
cheers
23 January 2013, 08:59 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
id just swap the sensor if i knew exactly what part it was to be sure its the only thing it really can be as i dont think the wiring is wrong because its exactly how it was wired on the previous car
im reluctant to put it on the rollers because the engine that is in it is fooked and im building another one...i just want to be able to put my new one in and at least run it in on this map so i dont have to shell out twice for mapping
im reluctant to put it on the rollers because the engine that is in it is fooked and im building another one...i just want to be able to put my new one in and at least run it in on this map so i dont have to shell out twice for mapping
23 January 2013, 09:05 AM
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
no just tapping slightly
with air temp sensor connected revs hang up etc but when you disconnect it they drop back down to an acceptable level
i initially though it was a fault with the icv but then when i disconnected and reconnected the air temp sensor iv pin pointed it to this
its asif there is a boost leak but i have checked all pipes and all are fine
with air temp sensor connected revs hang up etc but when you disconnect it they drop back down to an acceptable level
i initially though it was a fault with the icv but then when i disconnected and reconnected the air temp sensor iv pin pointed it to this
its asif there is a boost leak but i have checked all pipes and all are fine
23 January 2013, 03:23 PM
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
i cant just connect any old lap top though hahah
is there anyway io can get a lead and the software just to monitor stuff myself or is that a no no with a simtek?
is there anyway io can get a lead and the software just to monitor stuff myself or is that a no no with a simtek?
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23 January 2013, 09:44 PM
#12
Scooby Regular
for those of yop that dont know
car is standard type r spec so vf23 plus front mount exhaust and the usual other parts plus the simtek ecu
the car runs perfectly even though i have removed all theparts from one shell and fitted to another and modify the maf wiring for the air temperature sensor and i think this is where my problem lies
basically the car starting is a bit rough but once warm the tickover is very high but when i unplug the air temp senosor the idle drops to what sounds about right
now i dont think i have wired it in wrong as i have done it as per exactly how i removed it from the other car where all was fine but there is just this problem and the fact that sometimes it can miss pop and bang all over the shop from cold but i think this is more down to a poorly charged battery
anyone have any ideas as to what my fault could be or a part number for the air temp sensor that is used?
cheers
car is standard type r spec so vf23 plus front mount exhaust and the usual other parts plus the simtek ecu
the car runs perfectly even though i have removed all theparts from one shell and fitted to another and modify the maf wiring for the air temperature sensor and i think this is where my problem lies
basically the car starting is a bit rough but once warm the tickover is very high but when i unplug the air temp senosor the idle drops to what sounds about right
now i dont think i have wired it in wrong as i have done it as per exactly how i removed it from the other car where all was fine but there is just this problem and the fact that sometimes it can miss pop and bang all over the shop from cold but i think this is more down to a poorly charged battery
anyone have any ideas as to what my fault could be or a part number for the air temp sensor that is used?
cheers
To eliminate it quickly, remover the driivers side plug leads from their usual location and relocate them at the front end of the inlet manifold instead of the rear.
24 January 2013, 07:01 AM
#14
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The only issue I see with the software and dongle is that it wont be able to alter the current map as I havent mapped it yet. It would once I have mapped it.
It would be able to monitor and datalog parameters though.
24 January 2013, 07:02 AM
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As a suggestion, check that your plug leads don't run too close to your IAT wiring. Also check that the cam/crank sensor wiring on the drivers side isn't located too close to the plug leads either.
To eliminate it quickly, remover the driivers side plug leads from their usual location and relocate them at the front end of the inlet manifold instead of the rear.
To eliminate it quickly, remover the driivers side plug leads from their usual location and relocate them at the front end of the inlet manifold instead of the rear.
24 January 2013, 07:23 AM
#17
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24 January 2013, 07:30 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
Actually the old loom had the facility for an air temp sensor in the inlet to what would of been the airbox whereas on this loom i did not have that facility or the assosciaed wiring...could this be causing me problems or does the simtek bypass this as not all subarus i have looked at have it anyway?
My iat wiring gos around the bulkhead from the map sensor by the brake pipes to the top intercooler pipe just in front of the throttle body
My iat wiring gos around the bulkhead from the map sensor by the brake pipes to the top intercooler pipe just in front of the throttle body
24 January 2013, 07:35 AM
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Actually the old loom had the facility for an air temp sensor in the inlet to what would of been the airbox whereas on this loom i did not have that facility or the assosciaed wiring...could this be causing me problems or does the simtek bypass this as not all subarus i have looked at have it anyway?
My iat wiring gos around the bulkhead from the map sensor by the brake pipes to the top intercooler pipe just in front of the throttle body
My iat wiring gos around the bulkhead from the map sensor by the brake pipes to the top intercooler pipe just in front of the throttle body
24 January 2013, 07:42 AM
#22
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Thread Starter
I will re route the leads but the wiring for the temp sensor is quite a way out il double check it all later though and re route the leads like you say to see if it improves
Can i not monitor the air temps without paying for the license or once i pay for the license can it be mapped through my computer?
Can i not monitor the air temps without paying for the license or once i pay for the license can it be mapped through my computer?
24 January 2013, 07:45 AM
#23
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Its not a licence its a lead and dongle and software.
Yes it could be.
No other way to monitor what the ecu is seeing.
If you intend getting it mapped then possibly unnecessary expense buying lead and software.
Yes it could be.
No other way to monitor what the ecu is seeing.
If you intend getting it mapped then possibly unnecessary expense buying lead and software.
24 February 2013, 12:33 PM
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either it wasnt set low enough when mapped - would have been like it from day one, you have an air leak, or the idle motor is not functioning correctly.
Simon