DeweyAXD

Wow been a while!

I have a 2006 Sti hawk. Had the car mapped a good few years back (5+ probably). Ecutek with 2 maps (Bob Rawle did it). A few months later the Secondary Air pump failed on me and threw a CEL. API did a full delete of this for me (fully removed the pump and blanked it). As part of this the CEL light was cleared/surpressed.

Car sadly doesn't get used as much as i'd like it. Had it MOT'd for a Summer of use and is now having some issues where it pulls to 5k RPM strong but then hesitates and jerks. No smoke but cannot get to limiter. I'm going through diagnosising it bit by bit.

Question i have is whether i should expect a fault like this to throw a CEL or does the process of turning off the CEL for the secondary air pump supress all CEL light warnings? If it does then I'd gladly buy a recomended OBD-II tool to see what (if anything) shows. If not then I'll carry on down the lines. I'm suspected either fuel filter, ground issue or Cat... but i'd expect the latter to throw a light?

All help welcome as always.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

Normally I would just be turning off the codes for the items being removed from the car so the rest of the fault codes will operate as normal if their conditions are met. .

DeweyAXD

Thanks blugod. I assumed that was the most likely practice and an option open to a mapper. Comfort to know it might not be throwing a CEL which i assume a clogged/knackered injector or faulty fuel pump would likely do. Makes me wonder if it is a ground issue. The negative termal on the car feels pretty ropey to me. Next easy option is to check the MAF which i think i can just unplug and hope the car to stall out but i think that would also throw a CEL if it was faulty?

Any recomended OBD-II tools or are they just much of a muchness?

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

if you've an android phone the BTSSM app is a great job with a half decent cable like the OBDLink. If you want more speed and dont mind the cable then a USB OTG adapater and a cheap *** vag com KKL lead is very quick to update.

Other alternative would be the ECUTek dongle and the ECUTek app on your phone which is decently quick and easy to use.

Faulty maf rarely throws a code, entirely broken maf will throw a code but slightly wonky maf won't as the car just assumes its working because its getting a reading.

DeweyAXD

Thanks. I have a USB VAG cable laying around somewhere. No android sadly (iPhone only) but plenty of laptops. I have an old dog of a laptop with XP on it that has the old EcuTek software DeltaDash. Used to use it for RoadDyno back when i got it mapped. It has a physical license key sadly so can't move it to a newer device as none of them have PCMCIA cards readers. Might try that.

Would a bad MAF be condusive of these symptoms though? Would i not expect it to smell rich or feel like its running lumpy/lean when cold? All seems fine until that higher rev band which makes me think its either not pulling enough fuel or an issue with the spark. Other option is Knock of course but i'd of thought if the sensort was detecting that it'd just stay in limp mode and not surge in the way it does.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

the knock control system is dynamic, in so much that it reacts to knock and is constantly trying to achieve the maximum amount of timing it was mapped for. the factory o2 sensor won't tell you much of anything when your driving on boost due its placement and sensor range - if your unsure about the AFR then best to get it checked with a wideband. Are your 2 maps high/low boost or the same boost with pops and bangs on the other map? If its high low boost you could try a run on low boost and see if the same symptoms appear.

have you pulled the plugs yet to check for clues there? Is there anyone local you could borrow a maf from for a quick test?

DeweyAXD

Thanks for the info on the Knock. I have the high/low boost maps. I say that but specifically when it was mapped one was designed to run on 95 and the other on Vmax... It was road mapped so i'd imagine that does equate to high/low boost. I'll give it a try though. Foot to floor on accelerator, ignition to 2 and windscreen heater if i recall to change?

I'm about 25 mins from Newbury so Subaru4u seems like a good bet. Used to use API back in the day when David was running the place but that was over an hour drive so would prefer to go local. Always tend to want to do a bit of DIY diagnosis before going somwhere... curse of having an interest in how it all works i guess.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

well whip the plugs out for a nosey, could be dodgy coil pack, expired plug, fuel filter, old fuel, maf sensor, map sensor, neutral switch, AVCS solenoid, TGV valve etc. but at least the plugs you can check yourself and after that it may be quicker to bring it to a professional

DeweyAXD

Yeah a scary long list that as i feared it might be! Best handed over to someone that knows what they are doing behind plugs and fuel filter.

Daniel W

So I did secondary air pump delete and I have a 410 code that won't go away. A friend of mine said there is a software I can get In conjunction with my access port to change parameters. Does anybody know about that.

bludgod

iTrader: (3)

for your accessport you'll have to take your map and remove that code from it. if you have a pro-tune then ask your tuner to remove it from the map. If your on an off the shelf tune then you'll have to customise it by sitting through the cobb training course to get access to accesstuner Race software for your handset and then edit the tune to remove the codes (if you can, i believe there were some changes recently to cobb stuff regarding removal of emissions control devices).

Daniel W

Thank you so much

Andymcg

Hi,
Sorry to tack on to this thread, but I can't see how to make a new post (but dim I know)
I have a 2007 UK 2.5 WRX turbo with 90,000 miles owned from new and standard.
It is now giving codes for the secondary air pump failing.
I understand that all I need to do is to get some one to delete the codes and it is possible to disable the whole system without physically removing the pump and pipes, which seems to be a pain.
Not looking to spend more than necessary! as SWMBO doesn't really get why I want to keep a 15 yr old gas guzzeling expensive to tax car! and therefore resents every penny I spend on my appreciating future classic!
Can anyone recommend a specialist in the NE who will be able to do the necessary tweeting to the ECU/ I don't want to go for a full re-map for more power, just get ride of EML and have a safe working engine.
Thanks in advance.