ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

I'm making a few small changes to fuel and ignition due to the corrections in fuel trim and knock correction tables:
Question is,without me resetting the ECU how long will it take for changes to take place in the two tables?
For example,if I have fuel being pulled out of the map in one cell of the fuel trim map (0.93) and I lean out the cell of the fuel map will the correction map change fairly quickly? Take a while? Or not change until I reset the ECU?

Same example with ignition, if I have -2.5 in one cell meaning the knock correction is pulling timing in this cell,so if I pull a couple of degrees out of the ign map on this cell,would the correction change quickly?,take some time?or Not change until I reset the ECU?

Cheers
Rich

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

From my experience, the changes we make do not get rectified quickly in the fuel trim and knock control tables, i found it easier to reset and start again, it is a pain as the fuel trims need to learn again, but i amended fuel table, kept checking fuel trims and nothing had changed, upon the reset the fuel trims were different to before, same for knock control, i pulled timing, the correction knock control did was still there, onyl when i reset did they actually change

My fuel trims have sometimes 5% more fuel being added to correct to stoich and in some cells less fuel to correxct to stoich whilst in closed loop, i gave up trying to fix my AFR tables to give perfect fuel trims as i was finding power was suffering for some reason, if i leaned out a few cells fuel trims were still being done , i now let the ecu do its corrections :-)

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Cheers.
I hate resetting as the car seems to drive rubbish for about a tank of fuel,for some reason the car revs stay high between gear changes and idel is terrible.
It was never like this on my standard RA when resetting but this car is totally not standard.
There were very little changes in fuel trims and knock correction on the standard car so maybe this is why it drove ok after the ECU reset?

I think I will do what you said and just leave the reset,let the fuel corrections stay as they are as it seems they are doing the job ok?

The AFR gauge does go rich when I lightly press the throttle on cruise in the low revs and where correction is been made so it makes sense to why the fuel trim is pulling fuel,I have leaned it out in these cells so will see how I get on without resetting.

As for the the knock corrections,they are on higher loads 38-50 and only in the 3800rpm column,so I have pulled a couple of degrees and will see how long or if the knock correction table changes without a reset?

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

i agree, my car drives like crap for a while also when i reset the ECU, when those fuel trims are all stock it hates it ha, but i have the opposite to you, on light press of the throttle in 4th gear at cruise i go lean, my afr gauge goes to 16.5 then shoots back to 14.7 yet my fuel trims at this point is adding LESS fuel ha, my fuel trim is 98, go figure why its adding less fuel now, never used to, maybe too many resets ha ha but its not been long since i last reset so will give it a tank or 2 of fuel and see whats what

but from my understanding of my setup anyway, i cannot control fuel below around 2500 as the lambda does this for me as i cant turn off closed loop

Your knock control might take a while to add timing back in, a fair few blasts in that cell range should sort it, but it never really did for me, until i fully reset i had knock correction , even when i rectified this it still remained

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

It's starting to do my head in now!
I can turn off closed loop but when I did with the car warmed up and just switched it off on idle the AFR gauge went to 13 so as I'm mafless I switched to raw value and started to lean out in that cell,it didn't hit 14.7 on the gauge until I had 80(raw) in that cell which is 23.5afr.
I know it says in th manual that significant amounts of fuel will need taking out when mafless so why didn't the fkin professional mapper do this??
I've sorted out the overboosting/fuel cut,I've stopped it detting it's **** off and now it looks like the whole frikin maps a piece of ****!!
Proper winds me up! The tw@t has wired up the IAT to God know what?? Wouldn't mind but he did a proper neat solder job with heat shrink and everything but it's just not wired to the correct place and no resistor put in!!!

I might just throw in the towel and take it to a decent mapper,but it means traveling for miles and paying a lot of money!
Fukc knows,I'm just gonna try get a good nights sleep and see how I feel tomorrow!
Going to service the car and fit some suspension mods tomorrow,that will calm me down


Can anyone tell me,,when running mafless should I just be seeing 0v in the logs for maf v?

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Dont give up bud, its really not that bad, alright your mafless setup isnt right, but, you can either sort the IAT out or just add the Maf back in, i played with Maf and mafless and theres no difference in performance just mafless is more robust, but, touches wood, running a MAF is fine so far for me.

Going to a pro is the easy way out lol, stick at it, forget your current Map, it sounds like its not right, so start a fresh, also get your injector scale right, mafless isnt as easy to do granted but set your injector scale to say 0.85 and see what your AFR gauge reads at etc and go higher or lower if needed

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Yeh cheers pal,think I was a little peed of with myself last night too,bought a pack of 10 resistors a while back to do IAT properly and I've bloody lost em lol,no worries I will just nip to maplins for one. And was trying log AFR's yesterday using serial port from the gauge but kept loosing connection so was ready for throw the laptop out the window haha.

My injector scale is at 67 on the 740cc's so will leave that alone and just do some work getting the fuel map right,just need to sort AFR logging out. I did change the scale down to 60 to bring idle to 14.7 but the car drove rubbish so set back to 67.
The fuel map is the one I haven't really put much work into and I know it should be the 1st map to work on really,any work I've done on it is on high load which is ok now,just need to work on cruise as that's where most of my driving is done.

Jaysz

On mine with standard injectors have scale 71 if higher it it bogs down and overrun is rich afr target is 20.7 for idle and have 0 fuel trims also progressively richens with throttle
Maffless not easy also had change lots my map as was done in 20 mins

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Cheers Jay,have a feeling my map was a 20min job including fitting the IAT wrong with no attempt at changing the compensation tables.
I need to do some AFR logging with closed loop switched off and spend the day tweaking the fuel map,see if I can get that fuel trim table looking a bit better

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

AFR 20.7 for idle ? Thats uber lean bud, i idle at fluctuations from 14.2 thru to 14.9

Jaysz

Yeah that's target need to get about 14.5 at idle
I only set up ignition on my iat as unless stopped my iat only gets few degrees above cruise temps with fmic
There no way can do map in maffless in 20 mins and do all map