Just recently when accelerating the throttle sticks for a brief second, almost as if you put your foot on the clutch whilst accelerating.

I cleaned out the throttle body hoping this would cure the issue but no luck. Could this be the ICV?

 

I had this problem when trying to hold a neutral throttle on track, a bit of investigation revealed the inner sleeve of the throttle cable was worn and started catching in one position.

 

Oh ok I have had a look at the cable but I cant really see anything out of the ordinary. But then again if it was inside how would you? lol

How did you figure out it was this or was it a process of elimination?

 

sometimes if you have an aftermarket induction kit without the proper clamp for the cable it can become sticky due to the angle the cable runs under the bonnet. Try moving the cable around under the bonnet whilst someone blips the throttle and see if that gives you any clues.

 

I still have the standard airbox but I will give this a go.

 

Had a look around and tbh I cant really see anything?

 

Occasionally have the same issue, but don't see any problem on the mechanic side.
Sometimes it's better after resetting the ECU.

 

This has now got worse. I have cleaned the throttle body and lubed the cable too.

Think its going to need to be looked @ by a specialist.

 

Does it get better When the car is warm?

 

I had similar issue and it was the throttle cable had been adjusted to tight.

 

No it doesn't. It does it from cold right up to temperature.

How did you diagnose yours? And did it progressively get worse?

 

It would some times rev to 2000rpm when at standstill. Not all the time tho. Then when it was mapped the mapper noticed it and he adjusted throttle cable for me. Been fine ever since.

 

mine is getting high revs of about 1500+ when I'm stuck in traffic for a longer period, it runs fine when in normal traffic though, I've cleaned throttle body, and ICV but it didn't help. If you're planing to clean ICV make sure you've got new gasket as old one won't fit anymore once you remove it. I got myself another ICV with throttle body which I'm planning to replace tomorrow so I hope it will cure the problem.

 

Mine is not sticking like yours when in traffic etc its when im accelerating.

 

I think I have the same issue on my blob, also its on my gf's bug. Always when I change gear at around 2700-3000 rpm it seems like it blips the throttle by 200-300 rpm on its own. Very anoying. And I can't remember was it always like that or it developed recently...

 

Mine does this also. Mines a blob wrx ppp. So annoying would love to know what it is. Iv cleaned the throttle body, cable and boost solenoid as told it could be one of those. Still does it though. So annoying. Hopfully it will disappear after a map lol

 

is it possible that the breather pipe that runs near the throttle assembly is tripping the wheel/arm going round to open/close the throttle body? I've seen this usually on cars with a silicone intake pipe that moves the breather a little. Also could be a sticky IACV valve but not worth taking it off unless you've a fresh gasket to get it back on.

 

This is what I am going to find out on Saturday. I have a friend who's going to bring another ICV to try along with a new gasket.

 

Do you have to bleed the coolant system after changing the icv?

 

No I dont think so.

 

Well, seems like my problem is gone. Not sure which bit did it but this week I swapped turbo and injectors and had the car mapped. Got rid of EcuTek map and got open source one by Andy Carr. Also, now when I think about it I'm sure I noticed that issue right after the EcuTek remap, same on my gf's bug...

 

Hmm interesting but that deffo won't be my problem as mine has not been mapped. Will find out tomorrow hopefully.

 

So today I changed my ICV along with a new gasket today and now the car idles around 2000rpm and engine management light is on. The car also drives like s**t.

Does the idle need re setting via computer based software?

 

no there's no coding for the valve usually a working one just works. Are you sure you've not left out a sensor or a vac plug anywhere?

 

No it's literally 2 screws to remove and one sensor. That's exactly what I done so unless the valve I bought is faulty that's all it can be then?

 

sounds like it, do you have a fault code reader to see what the engine light is on for? if you had a diagnostic cable you could check the IAVC status as well - might be time to visit a garage and get it checked out.

 

I don't have a fault code reader. I do have a friend who does though hopefully he will come past tomorrow to diagnose it. It never done this with the previous ICV so presumably it is this. I might put the old one back on just to see.

 

So had it scanned the ICV replacement was faulty worse than the one I had fitted previous!