Traction control on a dccd car
#3
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I'm no expert at all on this, but I have spoken to Paul@Zen about similar stuff on my ECU and I think a DCCD control function can be set up on a Syvecs. Whether it would perform exactly as you describe is another thing. Paul will certainly tell you if you give him a call.
#5
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I dont have first hand experience as I drive a classic without ABS or Traction control. I've just ordered DCCD pro to use with a six speed conversion. As far as I'm aware to only output the ecu has to the dccd set up is throttle position sensor. IRC cars with abs are a different story. I wasn't aware that there was another form of traction control other than the dccd fitted to Subarus. What model do you have?
Last edited by edsel; 01 September 2014 at 01:07 PM.
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#8
On a type r when the diff is open its really easy in the wet to get the rear out as its rear biased 65/35. All I wanted to know, without testing it on the road, is if traction control on my esl will actually stop it from happening.
We can discuss dccd controllers and settings all we like, but for a while I may be running controller-less until I fit my dccdpro.
Had the dccdpro on my last car and it works great, but I don't know how it works in conjunction with traction controll.
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I think Andy Stevens might answer this one better. As he says, it's torque control rather than traction control on ESL. I don't know what that would mean to preventing oversteer but I think it's primary use is for launching from a standstill and stopping full torque being unleashed once LC has turned off. I have it too but haven't actually used it.
Last edited by piehole1983; 01 September 2014 at 02:30 PM.
#13
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Why would you want to take away one of the best features about the Type R?
Just learn how to drive it, and I'm not suggesting your a crap driver just that it's a different style of driving, you need to set it up properly, get the correct line for a corner do all your braking etc before and keep the power on. I'm not saying full gas but you need to balance the throttle, the back end kicks out because your lifting off or your running lingalongs, also you do need to experiment with the Dccd and adjust it accordingly, sometimes when on the move i'll take another click or 2 especially in the wet.
Type R's require driving all the time even when not really pushing, but they are totally different to other Subarus, and will try and swap ends if you don't pay attention and always require driving in the manner mentioned above, it takes a bit of getting used to but it's just a style change that's required not electronic interference.
Yes, yes I know i'll get stick about being a driving god, but all other Subarus flatter ones driving ability, Type R's take away the facade and expose you as an ordinary joe ham fisted numpty, then you either learn how to drive it while it tries to kill you, crash it or sell it, sometimes both.:thumb
Just learn how to drive it, and I'm not suggesting your a crap driver just that it's a different style of driving, you need to set it up properly, get the correct line for a corner do all your braking etc before and keep the power on. I'm not saying full gas but you need to balance the throttle, the back end kicks out because your lifting off or your running lingalongs, also you do need to experiment with the Dccd and adjust it accordingly, sometimes when on the move i'll take another click or 2 especially in the wet.
Type R's require driving all the time even when not really pushing, but they are totally different to other Subarus, and will try and swap ends if you don't pay attention and always require driving in the manner mentioned above, it takes a bit of getting used to but it's just a style change that's required not electronic interference.
Yes, yes I know i'll get stick about being a driving god, but all other Subarus flatter ones driving ability, Type R's take away the facade and expose you as an ordinary joe ham fisted numpty, then you either learn how to drive it while it tries to kill you, crash it or sell it, sometimes both.:thumb
Last edited by ditchmyster; 01 September 2014 at 03:59 PM.
#15
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Why would you want to take away one of the best features about the Type R?
Just learn how to drive it, and I'm not suggesting your a crap driver just that it's a different style of driving, you need to set it up properly, get the correct line for a corner do all your braking etc before and keep the power on. I'm not saying full gas but you need to balance the throttle, the back end kicks out because your lifting off or your running lingalongs, also you do need to experiment with the Dccd and adjust it accordingly, sometimes when on the move i'll take another click or 2 especially in the wet.
Type R's require driving all the time even when not really pushing, but they are totally different to other Subarus, and will try and swap ends if you don't pay attention and always require driving in the manner mentioned above, it takes a bit of getting used to but it's just a style change that's required not electronic interference.
Yes, yes I know i'll get stick about being a driving god, but all other Subarus flatter ones driving ability, Type R's take away the facade and expose you as an ordinary joe ham fisted numpty, then you either learn how to drive it while it tries to kill you, crash it or sell it, sometimes both.:thumb
Just learn how to drive it, and I'm not suggesting your a crap driver just that it's a different style of driving, you need to set it up properly, get the correct line for a corner do all your braking etc before and keep the power on. I'm not saying full gas but you need to balance the throttle, the back end kicks out because your lifting off or your running lingalongs, also you do need to experiment with the Dccd and adjust it accordingly, sometimes when on the move i'll take another click or 2 especially in the wet.
Type R's require driving all the time even when not really pushing, but they are totally different to other Subarus, and will try and swap ends if you don't pay attention and always require driving in the manner mentioned above, it takes a bit of getting used to but it's just a style change that's required not electronic interference.
Yes, yes I know i'll get stick about being a driving god, but all other Subarus flatter ones driving ability, Type R's take away the facade and expose you as an ordinary joe ham fisted numpty, then you either learn how to drive it while it tries to kill you, crash it or sell it, sometimes both.:thumb
#16
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Have look on those threads over on Syvecs forum
http://www.syvecs.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=558
http://www.syvecs.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=573
http://www.syvecs.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=560
And quick video showing the setting up
I assume his car is classic from the picture and yes ABS sensors are on all 4 wheels
Thanks,Jura
#17
Guys, it was a very simple question that I asked. Will traction control stop power oversteer?
On my esl I can have traction control either on all the time, disabled or on a switch. If its on all the time then I may indeed lose the ability to power oversteer. I'm simply wanting to find out the answer to my question but as usual on SN its not as simple as that. People really do overthink things.
Also, no abs on mine so no wheel speed sensors. ESL uses a rising rate rpm algorithm to decide if traction is lost.
On my esl I can have traction control either on all the time, disabled or on a switch. If its on all the time then I may indeed lose the ability to power oversteer. I'm simply wanting to find out the answer to my question but as usual on SN its not as simple as that. People really do overthink things.
Also, no abs on mine so no wheel speed sensors. ESL uses a rising rate rpm algorithm to decide if traction is lost.
#20
Just as an aside my cars in my youth were mk2 RS2000's on which I loved sliding the back out. I'm a bit more reserved today and the type r also has a few more horses.
#21
Won't affect it. It's tied into the LC on a timer so won't influence the action of a centre diff controller.
Very interested in your findings, a car with ESL msport functions and a properly set up DCCD controller should be an absolute weapon.
We are putting one on the ESL/Kamikaze/RaceDynamics gymkhana cars next season (although we have won all European rounds without it so far).
Very interested in your findings, a car with ESL msport functions and a properly set up DCCD controller should be an absolute weapon.
We are putting one on the ESL/Kamikaze/RaceDynamics gymkhana cars next season (although we have won all European rounds without it so far).
#22
Andy, if I'm reading this right, the traction control only kicks in on and after a launch and then isn't operational until the next launch ?
I had the auto controller from Jeff at Dccdpro on my last classic. It still has the same adjustment as the manual controller. So as an example, if the situation dictates the first orange on the manual scale, the auto controller has that setting as its maximum lock % and then reduces lock when needed. Not sure if that's how dccd-a works, but I could just paste the car about and it was very neutral handling wise. I suppose I was just wondering if it would fight against traction control.
I had the auto controller from Jeff at Dccdpro on my last classic. It still has the same adjustment as the manual controller. So as an example, if the situation dictates the first orange on the manual scale, the auto controller has that setting as its maximum lock % and then reduces lock when needed. Not sure if that's how dccd-a works, but I could just paste the car about and it was very neutral handling wise. I suppose I was just wondering if it would fight against traction control.
#23
Yes, that's right, it won't affect.
I've seen a mappable dccd controller that had a decent range of inputs and 2 decent accelerometers. For gymkhana it seems to work best open on turn in and locked when into the manoeuvre, but we have yet to fine tune. Very useful bit of kit IMHO.
I've seen a mappable dccd controller that had a decent range of inputs and 2 decent accelerometers. For gymkhana it seems to work best open on turn in and locked when into the manoeuvre, but we have yet to fine tune. Very useful bit of kit IMHO.
#27
I'm running 560bhp through a dccd box in a classic ( and have run 450+ for around 10 years like that and I don't need traction control. I'm a bit puzzled as to why it's thought necessary - the throttle pedal isn't a switch; it goes both ways.
If you just fancy doing it - then fine, its your money so it makes sense.
Do you need it? Not in my experience.
If you just fancy doing it - then fine, its your money so it makes sense.
Do you need it? Not in my experience.
#28
I'm running 560bhp through a dccd box in a classic ( and have run 450+ for around 10 years like that and I don't need traction control. I'm a bit puzzled as to why it's thought necessary - the throttle pedal isn't a switch; it goes both ways.
If you just fancy doing it - then fine, its your money so it makes sense.
Do you need it? Not in my experience.
If you just fancy doing it - then fine, its your money so it makes sense.
Do you need it? Not in my experience.
Seriously though, I already have traction control which is on a timer at launch as stated above by Andy. I was wondering if it also worked during normal driving too and thought that it may interfere once I had my auto dccd controller fitted. Also, I anticipated running without a controller in full open mode until new controller fitted, therefore a very valid question in the wet when driving a dccd car, as you know.
#29
Does it cut in on launch/ are you doing drag stuff?
My car runs fully open pretty much all the time, except for snow or whatever. I can't remember the last time I touched it. I fitted the DCCD to my P1 to get a more RWD bias rather than to play with the DCCD.
Re lardy - harsh but fair, but maybe not as lardy as you might imagine -6'1" and 16.5 stone/ 100 kg so the 560bhp does let me get up the odd steep hill
Fat Boy moniker came from my rugby days when I was anything but fat - think reverse naming like Little John It is getting truer these days mind
My car runs fully open pretty much all the time, except for snow or whatever. I can't remember the last time I touched it. I fitted the DCCD to my P1 to get a more RWD bias rather than to play with the DCCD.
Re lardy - harsh but fair, but maybe not as lardy as you might imagine -6'1" and 16.5 stone/ 100 kg so the 560bhp does let me get up the odd steep hill
Fat Boy moniker came from my rugby days when I was anything but fat - think reverse naming like Little John It is getting truer these days mind
#30
Does it cut in on launch/ are you doing drag stuff?
My car runs fully open pretty much all the time, except for snow or whatever. I can't remember the last time I touched it. I fitted the DCCD to my P1 to get a more RWD bias rather than to play with the DCCD.
Re lardy - harsh but fair, but maybe not as lardy as you might imagine -6'1" and 16.5 stone/ 100 kg so the 560bhp does let me get up the odd steep hill
Fat Boy moniker came from my rugby days when I was anything but fat - think reverse naming like Little John It is getting truer these days mind
My car runs fully open pretty much all the time, except for snow or whatever. I can't remember the last time I touched it. I fitted the DCCD to my P1 to get a more RWD bias rather than to play with the DCCD.
Re lardy - harsh but fair, but maybe not as lardy as you might imagine -6'1" and 16.5 stone/ 100 kg so the 560bhp does let me get up the odd steep hill
Fat Boy moniker came from my rugby days when I was anything but fat - think reverse naming like Little John It is getting truer these days mind
Nice to hear about the dccd in open mode. I use it in the dry in open mode but have had the back end round in the wet a few times, mainly due to the previous coil overs being a bit too harsh. It sort of skipped and then broke away easliy, which I didn't like. I want it to be predictable and progressive.