The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Right, Timing

So, on ESL, do i start with the supplied MAF based map (as my car is using the MAF) BASE ignition table and ZERO out the advanced ignition table and when i hear knock add some advance to that area in the advanced table then add 2 more degrees to make it safe etc ?

As otherwise, if i keep the base and advanced ignition tables as they are supplied, im going to be in a more of a muddle as i wont know whether to retard or advance

And when do i know to adjust the Base ignition table as well as the advanced one ?

if that makes sense

ive learnt so much so really appreciate all the info ive received, nearly there with the Map lol

Dutch Scooby lover

iTrader: (3)

I am not familiar with ESL, but adding advance when already knocking is wrong whatever management you run, if knock is present you should retard the timing, unless you are running much to low ignition advance values.

The advanced ignition table is the amount of degrees of timing the ESL will add to the base ignition timing set in the BASE map, if no knock is detected.

So if for a given load cell the base timing is 20 degrees, and the same load cell in the advanced table is set to 6 the ECU will up the timing to a maximum total value of 26 if no knock is present.

So you should probably have the base timing a bit conservative, and use the advanced table to add to that.
That way the ECU has the ability to not advance the timing if knock is present, instead of forcing it to run 26 degrees by putting 26 in the base table and 0 in the advanced table.

The manual states So I would fill the tank with the lowest quality fuel you will ever buy, map the car so that no detonation is ever present whatever you do. (With the base map, set the advance table to all 0)

Then fill up with a good quality fuel (optimax or something like that) and then start working on the advanced map to add timing until slight knock occurs and then backing of a bit.
In this second stage leave the base map alone, and only work on the advanced table.

That way if you ever have to use low quality fuel it will run perfectly on the safe base map
Because of knock sensing will not add the timing from the advanced table.
If you use a higher quality petrol it will sense no knock and will advance the timing with the maximum amount stated in the advanced timing table(which it WILL/CAN do when running higher quality fuel and not registering knock)

If the mapping is good, and you´ve driven the car for a while you should check the IAM table.

This would be populated with values between 1 and 16, with a 16 indicating that in that load cell the timing set in the advanced map is fully added to the base (so in my example the base was 20, the advanced was 6 and if the IAM is at 16 the total timing would be 26)

If however the value is 8 the total timing would be limited to 23 (20 degrees base, with half of the 6 degrees in the advanced table as 8 is the halve of 16)
This is probably because the timing is too advanced, thus the ECU sees knock.
So for that load cell you should leave the base set at 20, but set the advanced table to 3 (as that is the highest the ECU could add without knock)

On the other hand if after driving a while in varying conditions the entire IAM table is filled with 16´s you could probably add a degree or more to the values in the advanced table,as the ECU could add the maximum amount of advanced timing without seeing knock/det.
You are aiming for table filled with IAM values (after driving the car a longer time in varying conditions) of 8 to 12, indication that the ECU could almost always add the full amount of timing set in the advanced table to the base timing.
If the IAM table is populated with lots of values above 12´s the timing could be upped a bit, If you see a lot of values below the 8 the timing in those cells should be retarded a bit

The timing values in this post are just an example, I use them because I find it easier to use an example then trying to explain the same without them.
In no way I imply 26 degrees is safe to run

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Im with you

Easy when explained differently, cheers bud

Dutch Scooby lover

iTrader: (3)

I don´t know how much you´ve already completed the mapping, but I would suggest you make a decision sooner rather then later if you are going to run MAFless or not.

It would be quite daft (and time and money consuming as well) to make a perfect MAF based mapping, and then having to start fresh on your MAFless mapping, as I believe the load calculation differences between both systems will require a lot of work to make a maf based mapping work mafless and vice versa.

The Rig

iTrader: (13)

Cheers for the extra info bud, spot on, will re-read to get it to sink in but im much more aware of what to do now

with regards to what ive quoted from your reply, I will only ever use v-power (optimax) so this is what I was asking originally, do a run with 0 in the advanced cells and only adjust the base ignition so I get no Knock,safe power but will feel slow to drive I guess then once I achieve this I have the basis then to add advanced timing until I get knock and then back off 2 degress etc to be safe so I get better power but safe power.

Dmacnz

The stock 6K map. I would be very surprised if that have have you knock when running v power!

Dutch Scooby lover

iTrader: (3)

I would still do the base map on a lower quality fuel/not on the edge of detonation.

If for whatever reason you can not find/buy Optimax with your tank nearly empty, or if for some reason the Optimax is duff (Have experienced a bad batch of fuel from a BP and a Texaco station) you will be taking a risk with your engine IF you are running on just the base map timing.

You could however map the car on Optimax, on just the base map with the advanced table at 0, note the maximum attainable timing before knock occurs, and then subtract a quite substantial amount of timing from the base map, and add the same amount of timing to the advanced table.

In the event you even have a problem with bad or unavailable Optimax the amount of timing subtracted (I would advice something in the range of 5-6 degrees) will be more then enough to make up for the lower quality fuel (But it may be to much, so on the lesser quality fuel you'll be down more in power then would be neccesary.

This is quite a crude method, but at least you have an option to fall back to in case Optimax is out/bad/unavailable.

I personally would take the time to make both maps as optimal as can be, you'll never know when it comes in handy to be able to run the engine as good as possible on sub- Optimax quality fuel.