Fast road driving
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I consider myself a good driver but i would like to be a "better" fast road driver..
Just to give you an overview of my car
Uk impreza turbo 1998
lowered on tein springs
21/45/17 tyres on Speedline chronos
Andy f remap
magnex 2.5" system
hks ssq d/v
hks mushroom filter an piping
boost turned up more
greddy clutch
quickshift kit
I live in the Highlands so the roads are wicked but i want to be able to do it faster without destroying the car or myself.
Just thought someone may have some tips from a Scooby turbo point of view.
Thanks in advance
Just to give you an overview of my car
Uk impreza turbo 1998
lowered on tein springs
21/45/17 tyres on Speedline chronos
Andy f remap
magnex 2.5" system
hks ssq d/v
hks mushroom filter an piping
boost turned up more
greddy clutch
quickshift kit
I live in the Highlands so the roads are wicked but i want to be able to do it faster without destroying the car or myself.
Just thought someone may have some tips from a Scooby turbo point of view.
Thanks in advance
First get some good rubber on your wheels as it always pisses down here.
Get a fast road geo set up.
I really think that if you want to drive fast you should invest in a driving course, keep it on the track, and be very very safe about it.
When coming up to a corner brake before the turn (never brake during a turn), as you reach the apex of the turn begin accelerating again, any before that and your back end will slide out (if you have rear wheel drive, or the front won't grip if you have a front wheel drive car) and you will lose control.
Use downshifting and braking to control your slowdown. Don't worry about or do what F1 racers do because their cars are set up way different than what you are driving.
But my final opinion is to go find a place to learn to drive first, don't turn into one of the idiots that gets killed doing stupid stuff...I can't tell you how many mates I know have died doing stuff like that, and they had experience.
Oh and invest in a snooper
Get a fast road geo set up.
I really think that if you want to drive fast you should invest in a driving course, keep it on the track, and be very very safe about it.
When coming up to a corner brake before the turn (never brake during a turn), as you reach the apex of the turn begin accelerating again, any before that and your back end will slide out (if you have rear wheel drive, or the front won't grip if you have a front wheel drive car) and you will lose control.
Use downshifting and braking to control your slowdown. Don't worry about or do what F1 racers do because their cars are set up way different than what you are driving.
But my final opinion is to go find a place to learn to drive first, don't turn into one of the idiots that gets killed doing stupid stuff...I can't tell you how many mates I know have died doing stuff like that, and they had experience.
Oh and invest in a snooper
Last edited by slipstream_uk; Mar 2, 2009 at 05:55 PM.
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Posts: n/a
It was hard for me to make the thread without sounding like a tool as im not wanting to doo 100mph everywhere i want to drive more "effectively" since i have a good road car you know
.
I dont mean im going to jump in the car an take the A82 at 150mph cutting corners etc thats just silly - I have lost a couple of friends on that road aswell :-(
Going to be doing the next Knockhill trackday aswell fingers crossed.
Where would i get a course on handling etc an would i be able to do it in my car?
Thanks for the info slipstream
.
I dont mean im going to jump in the car an take the A82 at 150mph cutting corners etc thats just silly - I have lost a couple of friends on that road aswell :-(
Going to be doing the next Knockhill trackday aswell fingers crossed.
Where would i get a course on handling etc an would i be able to do it in my car?
Thanks for the info slipstream
Advanced Driving UK :: Advanced Driving Courses - Scotland
Following the link, there is one on your doorstep
Following the link, there is one on your doorstep
Last edited by slipstream_uk; Mar 2, 2009 at 06:43 PM.
Another suggestion: Ride Drive | Defensive Driving > Advanced Motorcycle Training > Fleet Course
These guys operate up and down the country using either current or ex-coppers as instructors and run a variety of courses. I did an 8-hour advanced skills course in the summer, which was 7 hours on the road and an hour of limit driving at Bruntingthorpe. You're asked to obey 30 40 and 50 mph speed limits in built-up areas, but on NSL roads you're encouraged to 'make progress'! Think the cost is around £330 inc. VAT. For an extra few quid they can offer you a certificate (provided you're good enough) which gives you a 25% discount with Adrian Flux.
After a day's tuition I was amazed at how easy it was to cover ground quickly.
Cheers,
Alex
These guys operate up and down the country using either current or ex-coppers as instructors and run a variety of courses. I did an 8-hour advanced skills course in the summer, which was 7 hours on the road and an hour of limit driving at Bruntingthorpe. You're asked to obey 30 40 and 50 mph speed limits in built-up areas, but on NSL roads you're encouraged to 'make progress'! Think the cost is around £330 inc. VAT. For an extra few quid they can offer you a certificate (provided you're good enough) which gives you a 25% discount with Adrian Flux.
After a day's tuition I was amazed at how easy it was to cover ground quickly.
Cheers,
Alex
My experience with a scoob is that they suffer from masses of under-steer, unless you got DCCD (an sti ra).
You can try heel n toe, keep the drive going though the diffs around the apex or you will end up in the hedge, Toe - and for me this slows the front slightly with the brakes whilst the heel still on accelerator. Warning - dont try this on the road first, get on the track.
Most sensible approach for scoob thrashing is slow in fast out, then work on it.
You can try heel n toe, keep the drive going though the diffs around the apex or you will end up in the hedge, Toe - and for me this slows the front slightly with the brakes whilst the heel still on accelerator. Warning - dont try this on the road first, get on the track.

Most sensible approach for scoob thrashing is slow in fast out, then work on it.
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When coming up to a corner brake before the turn (never brake during a turn), as you reach the apex of the turn begin accelerating again, any before that and your back end will slide out (if you have rear wheel drive, or the front won't grip if you have a front wheel drive car) and you will lose control.
just to add, when going down some bendy A & more importantly B roads remember the "Limit Point", how to read the bend...
as your approaching the bend depending how far you are from it, when you see it start to move you should be able work out how tight it is and what gear you require...
tip especially on hill brows, look at the tree tops to work out the severity of the bend...
adjust your speed before entering the corner so that (like mentioned before) you dont have to brake on the bend, accelerate round it as if you were being pulled round it....
ive just spent 3 weeks on a d/course (roadcraft) through work and it has changed my driving completely for the better

have fun
Track time should chill you out on the road. Once you know how good or cr*p you are you'll have nothing to prove. I often practice advance techniques, heel-toe, left foot braking etc on the road, but only if I have the whole road to myself. I think the most important thing to learn is to look way ahead, look through the corners and cars ahead, look up from your bonnent and start setting the car up for the next corner way in advance. Learn to use your peripheral vision. Any insufficient skills will be magnified by speed. Excess speed on the road is too risky IMO. You can never drive at 100% or even 80% on public roads unless you're willing to risk everything. If in doubt don't risk it. Easy to trust yourself, but it's the other driver on their phone that can ruin your day.
Last edited by chiefs; Mar 12, 2009 at 03:57 PM.
My experience with a scoob is that they suffer from masses of under-steer, unless you got DCCD (an sti ra).
You can try heel n toe, keep the drive going though the diffs around the apex or you will end up in the hedge, Toe - and for me this slows the front slightly with the brakes whilst the heel still on accelerator. Warning - dont try this on the road first, get on the track.
Most sensible approach for scoob thrashing is slow in fast out, then work on it.
You can try heel n toe, keep the drive going though the diffs around the apex or you will end up in the hedge, Toe - and for me this slows the front slightly with the brakes whilst the heel still on accelerator. Warning - dont try this on the road first, get on the track.

Most sensible approach for scoob thrashing is slow in fast out, then work on it.
if that was the only way then loads would be getting it m8 hear is one of the cures below

this is an anti lift kit ,it gives 0.5 deg extra positive caster on the front suspension and anti lift qualities that eliminate 99% understeer
here is another cure

pillow ball top mount that are adjustable for camber/caster
caster is the key to getting rid of understeer
cheers geo

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