hrubago

Try anybody install and run the posum link with program delivered by MRT? Mrt say that this program is "universal" and works on GT (Australian WRX). Which is your experience with it? I have no possibility to develop custom program to my GT (its difficult to make it in England - Im from Czech rep.)
Try somebody to change this program yourself?
I have Digit power tuning and after fitting my open custom made exhaust the pressure rises to 1.6 bar. I can set bleed valve to another position, but i think dawes is better (70USD). The second option is to obtain electronic boost controler such as APEXi (600 USD). It is more sofisticated, has many functions (and looks great!!!).

Third option is Possum link for 1500 AUD - 600 GPB?

Which way is better for me?
(I think second hand EBC from Scoobynet, isn it?)

Thanks for help........

john banks

The Link standard map is not rated by its users, so only buy it if you are going to remap it - consider the extras required - 3 port solenoid, lambda, knock link, tuning module. Good system but ends up rather more than 600 GBP.

What model/year do you have?

Bob Rawle

John, to once again correct the fallacy that Link "has" to have extras it is perfectly acceptable and normal to buy the ecu and use it without them. The PClink software provides real time information on everything the ecu is doing and can be viewed at the same time as you map it real time. Lambdalink/knocklink are extremely useful to have, not easy to watch the screen of a laptop as you drive (probably illegal as well)and the use of the three port is recommended, ecu will work just as well as its standard equivelant with its oem item. On that basis it is a very cost effective option on its own considering it is a completely programmable ecu. Software is free and the Serial Link interface is only £40 ... good value again I would say. All you then need is a laptop.

hrubago

I have MY00.
First idea was to get control over boost levels.
I think Lambda link could do it (and many functions more) but its dificult to optimeze it myself. (I have friend with Lancer evo VI with Motec. Bad fuel map and he changed four times engine - too lean in the midle. The Motec was maped by Motec engineer!!!!)
Im not sure about safety of myself created maps.
Now the question is dawes or APEXi EBC?

john banks

So it looks like a map it yourself option works out at £875 for MY00 Link, 3 port solenoid and serial Link from www.brdevelopments.com. It is still a bit more than £600 but pretty good value. If you do tune it yourself, it does come with a base map which makes the car driveable rather than having to start entirely from scratch.

I take it you have found the Link manual which gives you a lot more useful info http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/docs/WRX-V5.pdf

1.6 bar is a bit risky IMHO assuming you have the standard turbo, intercooler, internals that the UK car has. It will give you massive midrange torque, but the longevity of your engine will be in serious question. Most folk limit themselves to about 1.3 bar, and some consider that excessive. Depending on how you use it and what ambient temperature, if you have the same turbo as us you will be making a lot of hot air and the turbo will probably not last long. Turning down to 1.3 bar or lower in the midrange will probably not hurt your peak power just the torque if you did it with a Dawes, with a bleed valve, sometimes turning down the midrange kills the top end as well. Depends on the turbo and engine matching.

If you have no safe option for a remap you would probably be safer running a Dawes or EBC at 1.3 bar or below. How about coming over to see Bob Rawle? It is a long way granted!

You may also be able to consider a Prodrive ECU (I just sold one in the For Sale section on here recently they crop up from time to time) or a Tek 2 www.ecutek.co.uk remap ECU, but the results will not be as good as Bob doing you a custom map.

Also if you have been running 1.6 bar turning it down may seem very tame indeed.

lordlucan

IMHO
Tek2 / Tek3 are better than a custom map on a Link given the complexity of the Jecs ECU.
My car with a TEK1 is almost identical in speed to a BR Linked car with the same mods, was interesting to see my car had more power low down while the Linked car was better up top, probably due to fueling and boost.
At the end of the day its not worth spending Link money when you can do the same job for a significant saving

Adam M

Its true the jecs is a great piece of kit but the problem is I would rather have a bob rawle mapped car than a power engineering mapped car.

john banks

I would and am going for a Tek 3 personally over a Link, but if Tek 3 was not available I would go for a Link over a Tek 2.

SimonH

Would it actually be a PE mapped car though? I thought Stephen Done/EcuTek was doing all the mapping etc and PE were just providing the fitting and RR facilities? I know some people have "misgivings" about the PE remaps of later cars but I don't know that it's entirely correct to tar EcuTek's products with the same brush....

But then, what do I know...

Deep Singh

Lord lucan you say that your car "is the same speed" as a Linked car.What do you mean, BHP on RR? 0-60 dash? Your subjective opinion?Were the 2 cars identical.I think you need to qualify your opinion a little better.These cars with Ecutek,Dawes,Unichip etc is anyone monitoring boost levels,Knock etc? Lets also not forget that most of the big BHP UK/Jap cars have a Link/Motec mapped by Bob Rawle.IMHO its worth the extra money just for the peace of mind to know Bob Rawle has mapped it.

Homer Simpson

Sweeping generalisations from people who have never used, installed or mapped a Link before! Some people talk about it as if it's gospel, others tell the TRUTH!

I guess Link queries are best directed to the people who map cars day in and day out, like BR Developments. http://www.brdevelopments.com

dowser

As mentioned above - you can't generalise where a custom remap is concerned.

If a tek1 was more powerful than a link map, either it wasn't mapped correctly, was mapped only for high end power, or was mapped for 23ron fuel

Also remember that tek1 & 2 are 'safe', or 'conservative', fixed maps to be run on a wide range of cars (like the PPP). Tek3 relates to a custom remap - so what works for John with his new turbo, wouldn't for someone on the stock item. It also then comes down to customer preference - how far do you feel comfortable pushing things?!

hrubago - if I recall, your 1.6bar is a peak figure only, no? The digit-power mods are just a bleed and fuel cut remover (note: you have *no* fuel cut!) - as mentioned before a friend here ran 1.5bar peak and 1.2 held for 40k km's no problems (except a couple of gearboxes ). He's now happily using a Dawes at 1.2 instead and says pickup is better than with the 1.5 peak!

At the price, I'd do the Dawes as a first step to control boost. But buy lambda and knock monitoring as well and/or a copy of DeltaDash so you can see what's actually happening.

Richard

hrubago

Thanks Dowser, that is reply what I want. (discussion about tek and link is very interesting too......) In other words, if you can get control over boos you choose Dawes? You didnt see any usefull functions for extra money on APEXi? Link ECU is too expensive to use it as boost control, difficult to map it myself etc.......

On 5th gear i run on 1.6 bar for about 15 second. I dont know if its held or peak. The same situation is on 4th gear. I. II. III. - max. 1.3.
Now I make different setup of bleed and it looks now better. Butnow it looks that the spool time rises little bit.

Why your friend destroyed gearboxes? - the high boost come only at IV. and V. On. I. and II. there is "safety mode" which allow about 0,9 bar? (I think...)

dowser

Gearbox may have been his driving style

If you only want to get the boost under control, a Dawes is the most cost effective option. If you want to be able to remap fuel/ignition/boost settings then a link (or a tek3 remap) is entry level.

With the Dawes you'll get no major peaks, and boost will tail off to below 1bar at 6k (hopefully ) - I'd recommend setting it for 1.2 or 1.3 bar as maximum. You may be tempted to up the boost - just remember you have no last-resort fuel cut safety on your car.....

1.6 bar for 15 seconds is an *awfully* long time - I hope you only did it once?! Do you have a knocklink/lambdalink? At what revs are you seeing this level of boost?

Richard

hrubago

And more question for Dowser:

I red on ECUTEK pages your dash log file. You use ECU tek? Which experience? You set it and tune it yourself?
Its super product i think. You have EBC, ECU reader, ECU programator and more in one box!! And I red that MRT uses ECUTEK (before they used Possum....)

Can you suggest me ECUTEK? (you know well which tuning i have.......)

hrubago

No, I tryed it more times, because I cant believe.... :-)
I thought that was mistake of turbo gauge.....

Maybe new engine i will need than ECUTEK

dowser

I've got DeltaDash which can read information from the ECU - it's very, very good Is my log file there?

The reprogramming software isn't available yet.....but soon, hopefully

I'd love to see a log file from your car running 1.6bar for 15 seconds - the FCD will be blocking the MAP input and I would have thought the MAF will be reaching it's max output. It would be interesting to see what fuelling and timing is doing under these circumstances. If you're ever in CH again, and are brave enough, get in touch and we'll do a run!

Seriously though - I'd expect your car to be detting (or at least, the factory sensor would be sending signals to your ecu ) and the ecu retarding timing big-time (increasing EGT's). Be careful.

Richard

hrubago

I didnt felt any improvement in 1.6 bar.

You havent possibility to tune up (TIMING, BOOST, IDDLE, FUEL ETC.)on ECUTEK 2? ???

From 1.3 bar and more there is higher air temp, more fuel and no dynamic improvement......

I will no longer go for that pressure.

And my next visit in Switzerland will be in Digit Power when I buy new STi :-)

dowser

So, even knowing what digit power have done to your car, you're gonna' go back for more? wow!

Just bear in mind when you see the price that you could do the same yourself (safer - fuel cut gets lifted, not removed) for around Sfr.200.....

Richard

SecretAgentMan

1.6 bar held for almost 20 seconds in 5th....on a euro lump...

Get yourself a dawes mate...and if you're really interested, it won't be that hard to get a link up and running...

/J