Mark

My mistake on the oil feeds

But I'm convinced damage is being done by poor oil change methods. This may then manifest itself as total failure due to additional fuelling problems



[Edited by Diablo - 5/1/2002 2:06:36 PM]

 

Hey all, well it's been confirmed today that the big end Number 4 has gone bye bye on my95 wrex i'm also told the flywheel has hairline cracks in it through the heat?!?!?!

The machanic doing it tells me that he cannot tell if the crank is salvageable unless he strips it down! Now this leaves me in a bit of a dielema. What do i do? do i pay for him to strip it down to tell me the crank is knackered and needs machining or do i just save the hassle and get a already reconed unit at £1350? Can the crank not be taken out without complete stripdown? What do i do?
He thinks it shouldnt cost over £600 to recon it including getting a new oil pump?!?! I've now the added bonus that the clutch is fryed

What do yall think?

Anyone point me in the direction of any places to get a cheap new clutch or indeed any bits will be greatly appricieated.

 

in my opinion,if the crank needs machining,bin it.the face is the hardest part and removing it is pointless.regrinds are only short term solutions.

 

what were your symptoms mate.... i have a 1995 wrx and ive just come over all paranoid...

Cheers

Dan

 

Lead right foot.

Seriously, i could hear a little piston slap in the morning but i was told that this was no big deal?!?!. A few days after service and it lets go. No real symtoms mate i'm afraid just don't do silly speeds.

 

WHY, WHY, WHY ??? is it nearly always just after a service this happens

Got me scared to change the oil now

 

Mwooohahahahaha it's the curse of the killer service!!



Seriously, I don't know but there is a few tht have gone like this, wassent someone compiling some info on it? John banks was it?

 

Not me. Oily bits elude me leave me to ECUs and I'm fine

Sorry to hear about it, was it "modded"?

[Edited by john banks - 4/29/2002 7:44:10 PM]

 

Slightly, apexi turbo, hks filter and exhaust and a turbosmart boost valve (though this was taken off at time of det).

Ahh well not to worry, it's going back to standerd i'm through with messing.

 

"At time of det" ??? as in Knock ?

 

I think it was JohnS who was taking notes on failures.

"through with messing" sounds like Evo time

when I change the oil in my car,I always do it with a hot engine,switch car off and quickly change oil and fill/fit new filter and fire up as soon as possible,hopefully there will be enough of an oil film on start-up.do not know if it will help but you never know.

 

Yes! There was another fellow here in Greece who's big end went on him a little after a service. It's a MY99. Lot's go bang after service. He was cruising when it went on him. Although he used to give it some stick. That day he was taking it easy.

Don't know what's going on.

Cheers,

Wrexy.

 

Cryptwalk,

I forgot! Sorry to hear. Hope you get it sorted m8.

Cheers,

Wrexy.

 

Sorry det as in detination as in seizure.

Indeed you read my mind. Keeping my eyes open for a nice 5/6 in black.

Incidently my mate was at just behind me in his evo 5 when mine started knocking, he said there was no smoke or anything.

 

Cheers wrexy, i will sort it. Although the wallet will feel it.

 

cyptwalk:
Without giving too much away, what sort of speeds are we talking about and for how long ?
Just trying to get a feel for the symptoms and have a chance of avoiding similar.

 

To say I'm getting a little concerned about some of the "rebuild! quotes, is an understatement. You CAN'T rebuild our engines for £600, and do it correctly. I defy ANYONE to do it for that, even if they build it them selves.

PARTS: Excluding any pistons, rings, rods, crank, etc'.

Gasket set: circa £200
Head Gaskets 80
Oil pump 125
Barings, big/mains 175
Consumables 50


Labour:

COMPLETE engine strip. This means EVERY core plug, valve, you name it, it needs to come out. Then the whole lot needs flushing through, including every oil associated pipe/hose.

The turbo also needs to be sent off for cleaning through, checking.

Ideally, the valve stem seals should be replaced.

Block: check bores, hone, or rebore, IF it doesn't need a new bore liner.

Actually putting the engine back together, is not a quick job, EVEN if all new parts are used, EVERYTHING needs to be measured, and the oil clearances Plasti gauged.

I doubt any EXPERIENCED Subaru engine builder would quote less than 20 hours, for a "basic" rebuild. Most of the "GOOD" ones will take far longer.

Now taking into account, that I haven't included any of the expensive parts, I'd like to know how an engine can be "reconed" £1500, let alone £600 !!!!!!!!

Mark.

 

Dude it's the 600 is not a subaru dealer rebuilding the whole engine it's just the damaged bits on mine which look to be confined to big end and a few bits and bobs. I dunno what bits exactly i'm no mechanic dude.

Erm speed at time well quite fast not for long.

 

When building the SWRT engines at work we get nearer to 80 hours to build an engine.

Luke

 

Cryptwalk,

What did the noise sound like. Is it similar to piston slap or different?

Cheers,

Wrexy.

 

Nah dude much louder i'd say. It wassent like i heard it for long. As soon as i let off i heard like a loud rattle, i knew it wassent good so i pulled over and it just cut out.

 

Crypt,

Mate, everything I put in my last post relates to JUST a bigend baring failure. The reason I didn't include prices for pistons, etc', is because you may not need them.

The rest applies.

When a baring fails, it ends up turning into a million bits, ranging in size from tiny particles, to small shavings. These circulate around the engine in seconds. If you don't TOTALLY strip, and flush all the parts, and through the entire block, including the oil galleries, the first time you start the engine up after a rebuild.....well work it out.

Even if you don't trust my advice, PLEASE ask someone who you do trust. Please just make sure they really know what they're talking about. The guy who quoted you £600, DOESN'T.

Mark.

 

I think he assumes the bearing bits were in the oil. I dropped the oil to see if i could see any tell tale signs but i couldnt.

I think it's just gonna be easier to get a engine from grade a.

 

Cheers Crypt!

 

Oh dear.

Brings back bad memories from the time when my engine let go. It happened to me after about 400 miles from having it serviced.

My crank was beyond repair so a new one was sourced. Due to popular demand, Subaru were out of stock. When it finaly arrived the damn thing didn't bloody fit because of internal changes to the engine! In the end I was sick of waiting so I dropped in a low milage replacement.

The car never felt the same, I was always warey that it was going to let go again and so the result was that I didn't enjoy it like I used to. In the mean time, I drove a friends evo and discovered what a proper car was all about But that's another story....

The problem you have is that your cars worth jack $hit as it is. When you have had it repaired you will be reluctant to sell it because of the cash you have just spent on it. If I were you, I would find the cheapest replacement engine and drop it in. P/X the car for an evo or whatever you fancy and cut your losses.

Your friend and agony uncle.
Mr 6
evo6 gsr.

 

I know where your coming from mr 6 and i think i may just do that. It will not feel the same driving it again.

Know of a black 5 or 6 for sale?

 

Crypt,

Sorry, but a friend recently wrecked a replacement engine, simpley because they forgot to check the inlet manifold after the original engine let go. Withing seconds of starting up, debri that had got into the manifold blew back into the cylinders, and bang....

You only have to look at the cost of the gaskets, etc', to see what I mean.

Unless you are thinking of rebuilding the engne with uprated parts, so you can run high boost, find a good secondhand engine, from a "reputable" source.

Mark.

 

I think thats the best bet.

 

Any thoughts on why so many seem to go after an oil change?

Could it be that the oil is too thin?
Or that the oil filter hasn't been filled before putting back on the car?

There must be an answer in here somewhere...

 

I'm baffled with it. I know the garage that serviced the car put semi synthetic oil in the car. It had valvoline 5w 50 fully synthetic in beforehand. This was put in because the thiner oil can affect the knock sensor apparently?!?!