shane_evans

iTrader: (1)

After changing my gearbox the clutch pedal now stays down once pressed. The clutch fork relocated itself while i was taking the box off hence holding the box on.
I thought there was a fair bit of movement on the release bearing/cradle that it is attached to the pressure plate. Has anyone broken or damaged these?? The fork is located back correctly as well.
Is there ment to be a spring on the fork to help it return?? As there has never been one on there since i had it?

So new clutch or release bearing or both?

Guinness

iTrader: (1)

Defo needs spring for return...I had this..

shane_evans

iTrader: (1)

Next question where is the spring ment to be?? Lol I have seen a pic of one fork spring but it's not the same shape fork as mine. Lol where do I get the right spring?

JDM_Stig

iTrader: (3)

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/...turnspring.jpg
any subaru breaker will have the spring

30546AA030 could be the part number, only a couple of quid at subaru

shane_evans

iTrader: (1)

Looking at that pic that ain't the problem with mine. As my fork needs to be held back the other way closer to the cylinder, that's why I think the damage has been done to cradle or the release bearing as the top of the fork is closer the engine when pushed back so it don't the cylinder. If you get what I mean.lol

alex_00s

iTrader: (18)

Get the spring on and the piston from the slave cylinder will come out more to meet the fork.

I recently changed my box and clutch and had the same problem even after fitting the spring again.

You need to pump the clutch pedal quite a bit for it to regain its original poition and springyness...

shane_evans

iTrader: (1)

Put it all back together, the clutch fork moves fine and pedal is fine now. When the car is running when you press the pedal down can't select any gears, just makes a wearing noise. So think it's bearing change and clutch as well. :-(

alex_00s

iTrader: (18)

Did you not change the clutch and barring when you had the box out?

Would have been a bit silly not to taken that opportunity to do it

Clutch/gearbox jobs are the wrost on 4x4's... you never wanna have to do it more than once if you can help it so for the sake of whatever it cost for a new clutch you're best changin it then andpraying you never have to get the box off again

shane_evans

iTrader: (1)

The exedy clutch and bearing was new when I put the new engine in April. I know 4x4 are **** to work on. Lol I worked on a few of them. Hence the reason I am going to be selling it once it's up running again. Going back to RWD, start the next project.

hmhaga

Bleeding the slave cylinder involves removing it from the gearbox and locking the piston in place, then bleed as a normal brake caliper. But it is not unusual for the clutch slave cylinder to fail after a gearbox/clutch change. Same thing happened to me, had to buy a new one. If the piston is moved outside its normal position during the work, it develops an air leak due to wear.

alex_00s

iTrader: (18)

I bled it while still on the car. Pumping the clutch pedal a few times and holding it down while sum1 else released the bleed nipple to expell the fluid and retighten. Then repeat the process over and over until all the old fluid and air is out of the system.

So you're saying I should remove the slave and lock the piston? How is that done? Clamp it in??