Moles Dad

As title, have never used it in our MY99 UK.

Will the Prodrive ECU "see" it?

Presume higher octane will be better for the car anyway?

At present, use only Optimax as defo makes a difference in power.

Do we need to alter the ign timing for this to be optimised?

Any advice greatly received, MD and Mole.

john banks

I used double dose for the track tonight running 17 PSI and it was very sweet indeed. Yes it is addictive, but for road use it doesn't seem to make any obvious difference over the single dose. We don't have Optimax here yet.

I guess my ECU is probably advancing as far as it can on the octane I run even though I run a decent amount of boost. That is the way I like it.

Moles Dad

Thanks for that John, do you live near a circuit then?

Have you adjusted your ignition timing at all? or are you just letting the ECU get on with it?

I suppose the "real" answer is to change to a remappable (sp)
ECU and have it mapped for 99-100RON....oh well another day then!

Got too many other things on the wish list

Cheers, MD.

ps Do you know the pin-out for the AFR on a MY98 (UK) ?

john banks

I am right near Knockhill and had my first go on track tonight

No I've not adjusted my timing. I reckon I need to leave it alone and just work on fuelling and boost. I've sorted boost, just got to build up a circuit to reduce the MAF voltage at WOT above say 3500 RPM. I'll leave the timing conservative and work on the other two. Saves me getting a remap. My thought is they are easier to change with simple techniques, and leaving one conservative gives me a useful safety margin. I have a growing respect for the original ECU, and am preferring just simple tweaks to its inputs to bend it to my will

Moles Dad

I am chuffed for you re the track

I can understand you wanting to fine tune the o/e ECU, it certainly does work very well, how will you know where to stop on the "leaning down" process? If that is what you mean re the MAF voltage reduction?

Could you have the MAF voltage adjustable and/or linked to the AFR so that it can "turn up" the fuelling if necessary?

I wont keep going on....cheers, MD.

john banks

Where to stop, where to start is more like it - it runs so rich it is off my 9% CO AFR light! I might just reduce the MAF voltage by a few percent and work my way down to -5 to -10% which should be one AFR point - so still nice and rich for temps. I will set it up watching the AFR and the knock sensor. Would do EGT too if I could find a place to mount it. I certainly don't intend to go below 7% CO and will probably just stop at 8%. This should be good for up to 20 BHP apparently. Cosie Convert runs 5.5% CO and only gets det as the temperatures go up at 23 PSI with a TMIC which he quells with WI. So I am hardly running on the ragged edge.

Conservative and make the engine last but not kill the fun in the process. I think 18.5 PSI on the TMIC with 8% CO should not be too silly. I do live in Scotland after all which is basically water injection and intercooler spray for free most of the time

Moles Dad

Yes I know what you mean...where to start!

Just to let you know, we are seeing nine of the LEDs on full boost not necessarily WOT but including WOT. (If that makes sense).

The tenth LED is about half brightness.

I presume that this is "just" below 9% ? Havn't got EGT or anything else yet, soon to fit inlet temp if my plans work out.

Do you think it is worth me leaning down a bit (fuelling of course!) OR maybe running a bit more boost, I think we are running 18.5psi (shows 1.28-1.34kg/cm) Unsure of the held boost as this is only read from digital display on the HKS evc.

Cannot be much more as we have not fitted any form of "lifter" so must be within the PPP perameters, did get fuel cut whilst setting up the off-set on the evc, but not seen it since.

Any thoughts re this?

Cheers, MD.

RRH

too much octane booster (tempting, i know) seems to throw a CEL on the MY01- i added a full dose a couple of miles b4 filling up the other day and am now curious as to whether it's not able to adjust the timing far enough to cope- but still on a steep learning curve about all this tech stuff

(i got an OBD-2 and haven't figured any of it out except the code reset yet!)

simon

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

I was going to ask what WOT is as seen in other performance related issues ? If I needed to asked the question do I realy need the answer is this right over my head?? or am I destined to the muppet forum.

Tony

mega_stream

Wide Open Throttle

The rest is over my head though

john banks

MD, if you are holding 18.5 PSI I would not be tempted to go further. If I reach 30 C intake at ambient 15 on hard road driving that is nice, but I believe I will start to lose power if it goes too much hotter, so the gains will be slight by turning the boost up more. If you have a TD04L and FMIC, all the better, but surely it seems not sensible to use the FMIC to fix the problem of low turbo efficiency from pushing the boost too far.

Your mixture depends on the voltage at pin 6 on the LM3914N. If Mole fixed it up from 700 to 900 mV, then you are probably about 10% CO if you are hitting 900mV - the last LED.

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

Cheers Mega stream,
Guessed it was going to be something simple

Moles Dad

John_Mega...bit early for a reply!! Nice to hear you again, thought you had gone to Audi BBS

RRH, Dunno about CEL, what the hell is it?

Mr.Banks, I dont know what held boost is, like I say, I cannot read the fluctuating display on the HKS

I would tend to agree with your thoughts on trying to "prop up" the inadequate TD04, if and when finances allow I will change it for a slightly larger, or a hybrid version.

Thanks for the interest, and by the way, that NF booster that you use was found to be joint first in a head to head in THE leading Impreza magazine in Australia...showed a gain of 2.8RON

Cheers, MD.