sandycam

iTrader: (1)

I've got my hands on a MY99 PPP kit and was wondering is there any special points to watch out for when fitting it and does it do any harm if i fit it bit by bit? Bloke says that after fitting ECU it takes about thirty minutes for the ECU to learn it's parameters does anybody know anything about this, as in how am i supposed to drive during this period?

Jolly Green Monster 2

I don't have a PPP myself but from what I know and what I would do in your situation would be to fit bits one at a time.. just make the ECU the last thing you fit!

The Exhaust backbox is just like upgrading the backbox and should cause no problems to fueling etc..
Same with the air filter.
The intercooler pipes just aid flow and should again cause no problems once all three are fitted together.. just watch for knock
or pinking and becareful if you give it any welly.

I don't think it takes as long as 30minutes to learn but just drive it like normal once all fitted. There are various people for some reason saying that you have to keep the engine revs high and stuff like that.. they are seriously wrong.. writing software myself, I know that they would have never designed a piece of software that needs the engine to be thrashed for it to pick up the parameters needs to set up the fueling correctly etc..
Also the MY99 ecu (including PPP) monitors the parameters all the time and makes adjustments to make sure things are running fine.
So if you were to fit the ECU first it should adjust correctly as each of the other items is fitted, but you would notice more gains doing it the other order I think.
Older cars MY96 and earlier take longer to adjust upwards power wise when the fuel is better etc.. newer ones don't.

Also changing the backbox is fairly easy. The two bolts are a git to get undone and back up, the rubber mounts feel like they will never let the exhaust off or the new one back on but just keep pushing with you fingers and they slide off / on the mounts.
Helps if you remove the passenger rear wheel, as you can get to the rubber mounts easier... just make sure it is not going to fall off the axel stands / jack... etc.. as you need to pull on them with lots of force.

JGM

PS: All IMHO and I take no responsibility etc, blah blah

Puff The Magic Wagon!

iTrader: (2)

Just let the ECU "see" all the gears, ie use them all & don't pootle around in second

john banks

They are plug and play. We put mine into T-uk's car with a decat system and no PPP intercooler hosing for a track session and just gave it a 10-15 mile run to fill up with petrol after putting the ECU in before going out on track.

I personally would fit the ECU last as JGM says - it is mapped to go with the exhaust and IC hosing according to Prodrive despite what the cynics might say.

You may also have to change the restrictor size - you will need a boost gauge. Aiming for 16-17 PSI held boost, but if your gauge under-reads like mine it will be best at 16 indicated otherwise the boost will flutuate. You may have to drill out the restrictor orifice to 1.3mm if it overboosts - some cars do some don't.

BTW, it also works well with a Dawes at 18.5 PSI and a decat downpipe Seems safe on track at 17 PSI with a Dawes for 10 laps of Knockhill at least in these cool temps.

[Edited by john banks - 3/21/2002 5:47:55 PM]

T-uk

LOL at john banks,how you can tell him to fit the ECU last because it's mapped for that exhaust and pipe work and then tell him to run a Dawes and decat d/p .

remember to run super fuel or optimax

john banks

LOL That is the official Prodrive line - don't change anything because it isn't mapped for it and it is matched to the exhaust bits and hosing. The last bit was my line