Lambda Connection
You only need to take five mins to get to the ECU and snap lock one wire and run it to where you are mounting the AFR meter. Also need a power feed - plenty about all over the car.
John - the $64,000
Do you know which wire it is on a 96 (I'm ok getting a feed and a ground). I don't want to fit the dawes until the AFR is wired in (would like to fit the dawes soon though to restore the torque lost with the 3" exhaust).
thanks
Martin
Do you know which wire it is on a 96 (I'm ok getting a feed and a ground). I don't want to fit the dawes until the AFR is wired in (would like to fit the dawes soon though to restore the torque lost with the 3" exhaust).
thanks
Martin
Not personally, but it has been discussed I think in amongst the multitude of thread. You could ask Scott T or Cosie Convert - I think there was a picture doing the rounds.
I would much rather tap at the ECU rather than in the engine bay in extreme environment. Our 4 year old 40000 mile Pug 406 recently broke down because of corroded wires in the engine bay that had presumably been damaged when some work had previously been done.
For the EBC final install I will be soldering all my connections at the ECU and insulating. For an AFR snap locks are fine - if it fails you will see.
I would much rather tap at the ECU rather than in the engine bay in extreme environment. Our 4 year old 40000 mile Pug 406 recently broke down because of corroded wires in the engine bay that had presumably been damaged when some work had previously been done.
For the EBC final install I will be soldering all my connections at the ECU and insulating. For an AFR snap locks are fine - if it fails you will see.
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I already had one of my temporary connections fail with a snap lock and even worse it was temperamental. My excuse for using them was to try and work out which wires I would need to cut first, but I should have soldered them from day 1. When the weather improves (no garage!) I will solder everything including the AFR meter.
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