Clutch for town driving on > 400 bhp / 350+ lbft torque scooby?
#1
Clutch for town driving on > 400 bhp / 350+ lbft torque scooby?
As Above,
Need a clutch with a reasonable life ( 2 years / 20,000 miles ??? ) and good engagement on clutch release in traffic jams and town driving, without needing lots of revs and slipping to pull away smoothly. Must also be able to handle > 400 bhp & > 350 lbft torque on Classic 5 speed scooby.
Don't want rattly twin paddle clutch,
Had for 2 months a single plate Exedy Hiper with its own new light flywheel and ally cover and it juddered very very badly on pulling away and on down shifts, pretty undriveable. Removed, install had been fine and now pressure plate pitted and grooved as it couldn't cope with the required slipping in traffic.
gearbox off at the moment, so fast reply appreciated!
ta
Need a clutch with a reasonable life ( 2 years / 20,000 miles ??? ) and good engagement on clutch release in traffic jams and town driving, without needing lots of revs and slipping to pull away smoothly. Must also be able to handle > 400 bhp & > 350 lbft torque on Classic 5 speed scooby.
Don't want rattly twin paddle clutch,
Had for 2 months a single plate Exedy Hiper with its own new light flywheel and ally cover and it juddered very very badly on pulling away and on down shifts, pretty undriveable. Removed, install had been fine and now pressure plate pitted and grooved as it couldn't cope with the required slipping in traffic.
gearbox off at the moment, so fast reply appreciated!
ta
#3
Cheers Andy, people seem against the organic clutches at > 350 lbft torque ...
My AP Organic has lasted 3 years ( no slip, no judder, very nice in traffic ) - 2 years at 325 lbft / 360 bhp and 1 year since you last mapped it last year at guess 400 bhp / 350+ torque on the AFP TD05-20g / 850 injectors?
Including a few Scooby Shootouts!
My AP Organic has lasted 3 years ( no slip, no judder, very nice in traffic ) - 2 years at 325 lbft / 360 bhp and 1 year since you last mapped it last year at guess 400 bhp / 350+ torque on the AFP TD05-20g / 850 injectors?
Including a few Scooby Shootouts!
#4
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You can probably just fit a new friction disc to your AP clutch and get another 3 yrs out of it.
Just make sure you give it plenty time to bed-in before going drag racing !
Clutches are just like brakes, they are lacking efficiency when new and if you don't bed them in properly then they never work as well as the could have.
Just make sure you give it plenty time to bed-in before going drag racing !
Clutches are just like brakes, they are lacking efficiency when new and if you don't bed them in properly then they never work as well as the could have.
#6
I'd suggest gentle use and pulling away, avoid slipping / over heating the clutch. For a few days / 10's of stop / starts, parking etc.
Let the softer friction material mold to the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces.
Don't think they need to de-gas as some brake pads do ( the ones that need the cook 'em gradually process with repeated high speed hard stops! Think MIntex are already heat cycled ?) so more a matter of bedding them in to the metal surfaces.
Some PLEASE correct me if I am wrong!
Let the softer friction material mold to the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces.
Don't think they need to de-gas as some brake pads do ( the ones that need the cook 'em gradually process with repeated high speed hard stops! Think MIntex are already heat cycled ?) so more a matter of bedding them in to the metal surfaces.
Some PLEASE correct me if I am wrong!
#7
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Yes, just normal driving, a few weeks town driving in heavy stop/start traffic is ideal.
They will normally cope with full power from new, its just a hard 'full bore' launch that should be avoided
They will normally cope with full power from new, its just a hard 'full bore' launch that should be avoided
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#8
Scooby Regular
isn't that getting up near the limit of the clutch though andy? get that close isn't it gonna cause additional wear therefore not get the lifespan? unless of course you drive it like miss daisy lol
#9
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My 03 WRX ran for 2 years on a 20G around that bhp level and the new owner was taking it to Crail drag racing and running a dozen or so low 12 second runs in it every 2nd weekend !
Yes its near the limit but that does help to protect the rest of the transmission from damaging shock loads.
Yes its near the limit but that does help to protect the rest of the transmission from damaging shock loads.
#11
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Not gives way as such but limits the torque that the engine can transfer when you are brutal with a launch.
Fitting a paddle clutch to even a 350 bhp engine is one sure way to blow the box !
Fitting a paddle clutch to even a 350 bhp engine is one sure way to blow the box !
#12
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sorry to hijack the thread but im currently building a 2.5 all forge internals, and one of the andy.f 20g im only building it for 350bhp/400bhp as i will b useing it for my day to day car and a track but i wanted to know if i would be best to put a ppg box in or wait and see how long it takes to blow the 1 in thats in it. Its a v4 RA if that helps
#13
Scooby Regular
ahhh coolio, i dont have that issue, blew mine july now got a ppg straight cut box in it lol
#14
Scooby Regular
sorry to hijack the thread but im currently building a 2.5 all forge internals, and one of the andy.f 20g im only building it for 350bhp/400bhp as i will b useing it for my day to day car and a track but i wanted to know if i would be best to put a ppg box in or wait and see how long it takes to blow the 1 in thats in it. Its a v4 RA if that helps
i would guess you'll be high 300's torque wise which will spit out a standard 5 speeder box, ppg kit or a 6 speed will be needed i'd have thought
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