no gear after clutch change
#3
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What is it with these vague questions? Did you change it yourself? Did you drive it for a while and then lost all gears? Does it just crunch or is there no resistance at all? Has the clutch been bled?
Pull your finger out and give some more info ffs!
Pull your finger out and give some more info ffs!
#4
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i fitted my self with help
once it was allput back together i started car put clutch down and then went to put it in gear but it would not let me,but it does go in gear with engine off
it feels all normal when i depress the clutch,
havent bleed it did it need to be done?
#5
Have you 'clicked' the thrust bearing back into the clutch cover?
Is the clutch pedal pressure stupidly light to push down?
Are you SURE the driven plate is in the right way round with the words 'Flywheel side' facing the flywheel?
The way you describe it is classic of the clutch assembly simply nor separating when the pedal is pressed down.
Bleeding the clutch is always a good idea after a change, especially when you have the TMIC off the engine.
Graham.
Is the clutch pedal pressure stupidly light to push down?
Are you SURE the driven plate is in the right way round with the words 'Flywheel side' facing the flywheel?
The way you describe it is classic of the clutch assembly simply nor separating when the pedal is pressed down.
Bleeding the clutch is always a good idea after a change, especially when you have the TMIC off the engine.
Graham.
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Have you 'clicked' the thrust bearing back into the clutch cover?
Is the clutch pedal pressure stupidly light to push down?
Are you SURE the driven plate is in the right way round with the words 'Flywheel side' facing the flywheel?
The way you describe it is classic of the clutch assembly simply nor separating when the pedal is pressed down.
Bleeding the clutch is always a good idea after a change, especially when you have the TMIC off the engine.
Graham.
Is the clutch pedal pressure stupidly light to push down?
Are you SURE the driven plate is in the right way round with the words 'Flywheel side' facing the flywheel?
The way you describe it is classic of the clutch assembly simply nor separating when the pedal is pressed down.
Bleeding the clutch is always a good idea after a change, especially when you have the TMIC off the engine.
Graham.
and i put the flatter side on to the fly wheel,
i will bleed 2mo ,it does feel like it needs to pull the clutch more ive been told that you can adjust the bitting point as its a 230 mm clutch i put in would that withdraw the clutch more then
thanks matt
#7
You have this problem posted twice in different areas!
Wondered where my response had gone to...
Seems you have covered all the obvious areas, so changing the clutch point is a good starting point.
Bleed well first though using dot 5 fluid.
Graham
Wondered where my response had gone to...
Seems you have covered all the obvious areas, so changing the clutch point is a good starting point.
Bleed well first though using dot 5 fluid.
Graham
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#8
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again thanks
matt
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the housing fitted a treat but the plate would not ,have spoken to the bloke who was very good and is sending me another,one that fittes i hope,so it was nothing i could fix the clutch was the wrong one
thanks for all the help
matt
#14
I trust you have read the thread 2 or 3 above yours in the section ?
He has/had the same issue.
This was the prob of 'cross-fitting' in the clutches, the friction disc kissing the flywheel bolts.
I knew someone had told me about it some time ago, I think it was David at API!
He has/had the same issue.
This was the prob of 'cross-fitting' in the clutches, the friction disc kissing the flywheel bolts.
I knew someone had told me about it some time ago, I think it was David at API!
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