Make it fast but not loud - is it possible?
Hey scoobsters,
I have been blasting around in my completely (totally) stock
94 WRX import for a while. and want to make it faster
How can i achieve this without making it loud - having a 12 drainpipe hanging out the back of the car etc.
Any sensible suggestions from an expert graciously accepted.
Ben
I have been blasting around in my completely (totally) stock
94 WRX import for a while. and want to make it faster
How can i achieve this without making it loud - having a 12 drainpipe hanging out the back of the car etc.
Any sensible suggestions from an expert graciously accepted.
Ben
Decat but use a sensibly quiet backbox. Change for a panel filter rather than noisier induction kit. Get a remapped ECU setup up for UK fuel and you will optimise power, boost and ignition advance.
http://www.brdevelopments.com are the premier UK mappers of Link ECU which should be available for your model year. Alternative is Unichip piggyback ECU and a boost controller. Depends on where you live as much as anything else - Powerstation seem to be the preferred mapper for these. Probably true that mapper is more important than the actual chip. I would avoid superchips etc.
On a car of this age also consider the geometry, state of the suspension dampers, cambelt and lambda sensor as well as obvious tyre and brake issues.
http://www.brdevelopments.com are the premier UK mappers of Link ECU which should be available for your model year. Alternative is Unichip piggyback ECU and a boost controller. Depends on where you live as much as anything else - Powerstation seem to be the preferred mapper for these. Probably true that mapper is more important than the actual chip. I would avoid superchips etc.
On a car of this age also consider the geometry, state of the suspension dampers, cambelt and lambda sensor as well as obvious tyre and brake issues.
Blimey - good advice from Mr. Banks there...all in the one post.
Perhaps a bit of interpretation to add: Balance the tune - don't just do power, think about the suspension etc., too. With an older car the risk of a big power upgrade is that it gets you somewhere a lot faster than you ever got there before, and then you *discover* that you should have done something else (e.g. like upgraded the brakes) too.
Better to not *discover*...
Perhaps a bit of interpretation to add: Balance the tune - don't just do power, think about the suspension etc., too. With an older car the risk of a big power upgrade is that it gets you somewhere a lot faster than you ever got there before, and then you *discover* that you should have done something else (e.g. like upgraded the brakes) too.
Better to not *discover*...
Thanks for the advice - i will go in search of a remapped ecu -
I was thinking of upping the boost slightly - i have seen all sorts of ways to achive this... ?
Also - My car has done only 40k miles so it is quite fresh in the suspension area - i have considered a brake upgrade - however my insurance company sounded like they were choking on a bowling ball when i suggested that i was changing the brakes (cretins)-- is there a good answer - or a scoobydoo part that will do the job and be 'invisible'?
I was thinking of upping the boost slightly - i have seen all sorts of ways to achive this... ?
Also - My car has done only 40k miles so it is quite fresh in the suspension area - i have considered a brake upgrade - however my insurance company sounded like they were choking on a bowling ball when i suggested that i was changing the brakes (cretins)-- is there a good answer - or a scoobydoo part that will do the job and be 'invisible'?
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From: 1600cc's of twin scroll fun :)
Those "brakes" (ok im being sarcastic
) aint up to much, they are probably the 250ish mm 2 pots (newer cars have 297mm 4pots and even they aint up to the job!!) so bigger wheels, bigger brakes then more power 
But sort the brakes out!! they are crap
Tony
) aint up to much, they are probably the 250ish mm 2 pots (newer cars have 297mm 4pots and even they aint up to the job!!) so bigger wheels, bigger brakes then more power 
But sort the brakes out!! they are crap

Tony
Ben,
OK, I have a 94 WRX and if I was going to start from scratch again, I would do the following:
1. Full exhaust - I have a MRT downpipe with hi-flow cat, MRT centre section with muffler and a Remus backbox. This setup is quieter than the standard exhaust but with much better breathing.
Most exhaust systems you can "mix and match" parts so don't feel you have to buy everything from one place.
2. Air filter - I am using a Green Twister now which is a shielded cone filter (again no extra noise over stock setup). I've used Pipercross filters in the past which are noisier (as are all cone filters).
3. Dawes MBC - set to 14psi. Changes the boost curve to make the car much faster point to point. This will transform the car !
4. Brakes - 4pot setup is better than the standard 2pots. You can then at a further date go for the Godspeed big disk kit.
5. Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit and solid rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) links. Cuts understeer dramatically.
I have a Link ECU mapped by BRD and it is excellent but I would go for the items above first as long as you use Optimax or Super Unleaded.
If you decide to go further with better intercoolers, larger injectors, turbos etc then the Link really does come into it's own.
Thanks
Gavin
OK, I have a 94 WRX and if I was going to start from scratch again, I would do the following:
1. Full exhaust - I have a MRT downpipe with hi-flow cat, MRT centre section with muffler and a Remus backbox. This setup is quieter than the standard exhaust but with much better breathing.
Most exhaust systems you can "mix and match" parts so don't feel you have to buy everything from one place.
2. Air filter - I am using a Green Twister now which is a shielded cone filter (again no extra noise over stock setup). I've used Pipercross filters in the past which are noisier (as are all cone filters).
3. Dawes MBC - set to 14psi. Changes the boost curve to make the car much faster point to point. This will transform the car !
4. Brakes - 4pot setup is better than the standard 2pots. You can then at a further date go for the Godspeed big disk kit.
5. Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit and solid rear sway bar (anti-roll bar) links. Cuts understeer dramatically.
I have a Link ECU mapped by BRD and it is excellent but I would go for the items above first as long as you use Optimax or Super Unleaded.
If you decide to go further with better intercoolers, larger injectors, turbos etc then the Link really does come into it's own.
Thanks
Gavin
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