340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

Im going to be replacing my rear crank seal on my '96 WRX soon,is it best to just remove the gearbox or take the whole engine out ?

911

IMHO:
Remove the box.

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

That's what I was thinking but i've heard a few people say it's easier to take the whole engine out.
Do you know where I could get a guide from for removing the 'box ?

911

It is hard work rather than difficult technically.
There are several blow by blow guides in Drivetrain, do a quick search.

Several of us can spell it out if you come back.

You are very close to Welcome to the API website in Leamington spa.
You might want to ask David there about the job. They do these things while you wait/go shopping.

Come back if you wish.

Graham

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

I'll be giving Api a wide birth thanks mate,wasn't happy with certain things they did when they replaced my front crank seal/cambelt !!

I'll do a search on here and see what I can find out.

gaz-cole

if on a ramp gearbox out if on the floor and got a engine hoist take the lump out depends what facilities you have got,

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

Im going to be doing the job on the floor so does that mean definately engine out ??

911

To remove the engine you still have to remove the parts from below, the exhaust/lower bell housing nuts etc.
Removing the front drive shafts (box out) = removing the rad coolant (engine out)

There are lots of swings and round abouts in the job (I've tried it both ways)

doing the box = oil out.
doing the engine = coolant out and refil which can be awkward, then all the pipework, then all the wires. The box weighs a lot and if on your own you will need a good gearbox jack or a very large trolly jack and a steady hand; no joke if it drops.
Engine out means easy access to the flywheel and hence the seal away from the car, but with the box out you can get to the parts easy enough!

Graham

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

I have an Sti5 type-r 'box in mine,does that way as much ?

If removing the 'box can the car be on ramps or does it need to be on axle stands with the wheels free ?

Will a normal trolley jack and bits of wood etc be capable of supporting the gearbox ?

911

I have the same box as yours, they all weigh much the same, about 80KG, but they are awkwardly balanced to make them worse.

A good trolly high lift jack will do but best get some one strong under there with you to help steady it.
Splitting the box off the engine can be very hard, or it might fall off!

The one or both front lower ball-joints need to be split to allow the drive shaft cv's to be pulled off the box, so no ramps.

If you take the engine out you don't need to do the shafts so ramps are good enough to get at the bolts, but maybe not high enough to release the down pipe off the turbo.

Prob the best thing about removing the engine is you can lift it with a hoist, very controllable and safe.

There are equal swings and roundabouts to either way. I'm just more used to the box-out approach now (done it 5 times).

Graham

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

80Kg for a gearbox

Can't make my mind up whether to take the 'box off or take the engine out

911

A final shot for you (we have all been where you are now!)

Aligning the engine to the box when slotting it all back together is a bitch when wriggling the engine about bumping into the chassis side rails and the engine mounts bashing the crossmember.

Aligning the same with the box is still a bitch but you have far more room to 'shake-rattle-n-roll the two together.

ps: Invest in a clutch alignment tool that is absolutly accurate.

Graham

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

Ive lined up clutches on various cars over the years with just my finger when people said it couldnt be done so im not overly worried about that unless its a dead cert that I wont be able to align the clutch without a tool ?

When you have time,could you run me through the process of engine removal so I have an idea of what I should be doing ?

911

Engine out by an old guy's memory!:
Disconnect battery/jack up car safely/car on ramps/drain all fluids.
Undo the PAS pump/belt. Remove off engine the A/C pump
Remove the fuel lines (give some time for pressure to ease off!)
Remove Air filter and MAF
Remove all wire connections to the engine by washer bottle (3 big connectors iirc)
Remove turbo shield and then down pipe.
Remove TMIC totally/starter motor and cables
Remove the clutch fork pivot pin, the famous one behind the large allen head cover by the starter motor.
Drown the block/gearbox interface and especially the 2 dowls with WD40
Remove the rad and A/C rad if there as well as fan connections.
Undo engine mounting nuts on crossmember.
Support gearbox and undo the 3 remaining bellhousing nuts/bolts (7 of them if a late gearbox)
Put hoist onto engine and lift the mounting studs free of the cross member.
Adjust gear box supportto take the strain.
Pull the engine free of the box (this is where the going get TOUGH)
Often the two do not want to part. Swearing /thumping/brute force wins the day unless lucky...
Pull the engine about 6 inches forward to free the gearbox input shaft clear and up and away with the engine.

Fluids will now come out of the engine for sure so be ready for the coolant.

There will/may be some details on pipes/wires I've missed out so beware!

Now I know why I do the gearbox way, so easy.

Graham

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for taking the time to write all that out

I still cant make my mind up either to take the engine out or just take the 'box off

911

Box out.

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

That does sound like the best way but im worried about the weight of the 'box. Maybe I should just get on with it,it might not be as bad as it sounds !!
If its going to be 'box out,what oil do I refill with and what quantity ?

gaz-cole

just give it a go it will be done before you realise, as said before if doing the box route get a mate with some half decent strenght to give you a chuck and feed him some beer after for his provided man power

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

prefer engine out.. but all personal preference..

Simon

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

Come the weekend im going to be stood infront of the car thinking"Engine out or 'box out"

I have to remove my turbo aswell so maybe I should just remove the engine !

Group N

BOX OUT !!!!!

you can support the gearbox on a trolley jack, wiggle it off the mounting dowels and then lower it to the ground with the aid of a willing mate whilst you support it on the trolley jack under the car.

Get it jacked up enough so you can crawl underneath.

remove your intercooler, gearbox / engine top bolts, release the selector fork, remove the starter and undo the dogbone before you jack the car up - unless you are tall

I used a poorly input shaft cut down to size for my clutch alignment - works a treat.

Usefull to keep all removed nuts and bolts and bits in a tray - or separate trays, that way you know if something is left on completion!!

HTH
Rob

911

The above routine is so so correct.
Bloody bolts everywhere, but i can actually remember where they all go now and have NONE left over!
Graham

Box out.

Neil..

iTrader: (35)

If you are removing your turbo, for whatever reason, as you said, then I would go the engine out route, provided you have an engine crane ...IMHO.

I've done it both ways, without a ramp, and one thing that just pi$$ed me off, was trying to put the box back in, lay on mi back, with gear oil running out of the rear of the box (even though it was drained) and then me getting covered in the stuff....

Also, once the engine is out, you might as well give the engine bay and the engine a good clean

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

Ive decided to go the engine out route,I should be getting a crane tomorrow so thats a start !

As my power steering resevoir was leaking when I bought the car,the engine is abit oily so it will get a good clean while its out.

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

If I remove the engine,how do I go about removing the A/C pump and will the system need regassing afterwards ?

911

No, the A/C pump un bolts from it's brackets and you can swing it out of the way on it's hoses, exactly as the PAS pump does.

Now I've noticed you want to remove the turbo then taking the engine out is far more justified!
It will be so much easier to remove with the ngine out, but fantastically easy to replace! Watch for the small water hose burried under the turbo suport bracket, can be a real bitch to get back on.

Good luck, you have a busy weekend ahead of you.
Slow and easy approach, it is all a giant mecanno set really.
Graham

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for all your advice mate. Just need to get an engine crane today hopefully and I can make a start with it

911

Be careful you dont pinch/break something on the inlet manifold with the rope/chain you might use to lift it all out.
Good luck!
Graham

340BHP-WRX

iTrader: (6)

Didnt get round to getting the engine out over the weekend,bought an engine crane late yesterday.

Does anyone know the weight of the engine and where the lifting points are ?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

no idea on weight..

rope around the inlet manifold works for me and most people.

Simon