just wondered if anyone had any idea of what the clicking could be ? its coming from the front near side wheel arch possibly drive shaft or cv joint .if it is either of them what sort cost will it be to get repaired .my98 car

cheers for any help

 

Worn CV joints normally get louder when under load on full lock so try this (both ways) in a car park or somewhere safe and open. If it gets louder or turns into a knocking noise then its probably the CV joint. FYI it was rumoured that the my98 had a problem with the cv gaiter clips and that the grease oozed out if they were not replaced... so have a look for grease being flung around from the gaiter.

Depends how loud the ticking is but its worth checking for the cheaper option that it might be a stone in the tyre tread .... stranger things have happened.

 

thanks for the reply had a look to see if the cv gaitor had split and its fine .wondering if the cv joint is on its way? out as the click isnt all of the time

 

Could be a CV joint, but I've recently been down the same road myself and now believe it could even be the wheel bearing- even though my troubles started nearly 5K miles ago! I had a similar clicking noise, which came and went, then it progressed into creaking and scraping metal on metal noise which again came and went- seemed to go after jacking the car up to have a look, so I thought it had to be a CV joint. I also noticed more brake pedal travel when the noise occured, which led me to think it was the bearing loosening. After tightening the main hub nut (hadn't moved) a couple of degrees, the brake pedal travel reduced to almost nothing and the noise stopped! Less than 100 miles later, it was back again, so I've tightened the nut again a degree (if that) which cured it once again. I also removed the nut and pushed the driveshaft inwards to reveal the tone wheel (ABS sensor toothed cog) which has obviously been fowled by the ABS sensor itself when everything had loosened. Could this have been the noise? As a temporary 'fix' I've installed a washer between the ABS sensor and it's housing to lift the sensor away from the tone wheel. Bingo, no more noises for a couple of hundred miles, but the brake pedal travel is still there, which points to the bearing going slack. Anyhow, it's going into Subaru in Peterborough next week to have the bearing changed. Lots of money, but I don't know anyone else with the correct gear to change it- lump hammers and welding torches are not an option!

Will post the outcome when I know more...

Si

 

As the clicking isnt always there ...... if you do the full lock driving in a car park thing this loads the CV joint so much that if its going to click at all it'll click then. Do this for both extremes of the steering lock and at a reasonable load/speed (over 10mph hence the need for a carpark) if it doesn't click then its probably not the CV making the current noise.

 

cheers for the reply ,keep me posted on what happens at the garage

 

hi mine a bug eye and mine dose it from the brakes when reverseing.subaru say it the pads in the cailper. told me it nothing to to worry about.

 

Looky here, you'll want to read this!!

Picked up my car from Subaru in Peterborough this morning, mystery solved. All the racket and problems I've been having are down to the inside of the hub wearing and having gone 'oval' shaped in the bearing. It's a known problem apparantly, not sure if it's down to the design of the hub assembly or the material used being too 'soft'.
For me at least (and I've seen other post where bods have had bearings and CV joints replaced, with the fault recurring) it explains all, why there was no play in the bearing itself when the car is jacked up, why it goes for a short while after the hub nut is tightened, and the excessive brake pedal travel. It's easier to understand what's going on if you have the cutaway drawing that's in the Impreza service manual. If I have a minute, I might try posting it on Scoobypedia.
It's booked in for next Friday, £449 to replace the bearing and hub assembly. Ouch!

Merry Christmas
Si