HowieG

Hi, I hope you can help, but I've been given some poor advise recently and need a few experts to help.

There is a knocking noise when I go on or off the power, just one knock as the slack is taken up or released.

My garage told me it was the front anti-roll bar links - which they replaced, and guess what? The noise is still there. They now think its the front near side CV joint.

I thought CV's clunk when on full lock when they are on their way out, but mine doesn't.

I've been quoted £207+VAT for the part (subaru) plus fitting. Should I go for it or do you reckon they've guessed wrong again?

Got to sort it soon as I have a track day in Oct.

Help please.

H

StickyMicky

i have just paid around £70 for a pattern part from the local motor factors

mickywrx

iTrader: (29)

I thought CV's clicked when they were fk'd, whilst driving. Faster you go faster the clicking.

HowieG

Thanks.

£70 sounds much more like it. Thing is, I'm still not sure it's the right diagnosis.

Do you think I should change it and hope for the best?

Is it a DIY job?

H

StickyMicky

its a bit of a dirty job, but its not what i would consider a hard one


mine did not click, it just snapped in bloody half and let the wheel fall off PMSL

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

holly cow!

I just split a boot.. have a spare driveshaft with also a split cv.. but on quick inspection cannot see how you split the CV joint??
Any I missing the obvious?
have bought new boots to go on the spare so I can then swap the driveshaft.

Thanks
Simon

StickyMicky

the hub nut snapped off the end

showed it ti alyn @ asperformance and he had seen nothing like it either, wheel bearing fell apart, it all went pete tong

its all back together, but the brakes still feel really crap (new pads/discs etc etc) the calliper needed a little griding session to let the pads slide free, but i suspect the calliper might be a little bent now TBH

going to look for a set of 4 pots i think (still on 2 pots lol)

jonnystiv1

check the engine mounts sounds like that could be your problem cv joints click only when you have full lock on unless its gone months then it would be non stop clickin hope this helps

jonny

HowieG

Thanks Jonny.

How do i chech the engine mounts. The car is a JDM 2001 bugeye WRX- 40,000 miles but done a few trackdays though.

H

cmpequeno

have a similar problem, changed the cv joint ( clunk on full lock ) but now with the new one the steering wheel shakes on straights... now I'm more confused...

jonnystiv1

put handbrake up put car in first gear and just up and down off the clutch if u hear the noise then its a mounting or a bushing get back to me and ill tell u how to check the rest hope this helps u

HowieG

Just an update:

Car went in to have the CV changed. I supplied two new CV's (pattern parts - Blue Print) - one of them was supposed to be the correct fitment.

Unfortunately, the garage dismantled the CV, offered up the new ones but neither were any good due to the ABS ring or something, so they had to reassemble the old one so that I could get to Donnington the next day (a day in a mates Caterham - fab!).

The thing is, the clonk noise when on and off the gas has gone! Problem solved. Except that we don't know what we've fixed! And sadly I've now got the best part of £200 of genuine Subaru CV joint ( the correct one) that I don't appear to need.

I don't know If I've been lucky or not!

How

PS I'm at Bedford on Sat 14th - if it doesn't break I'll consider it permanent.

cmpequeno

hello,

I'm having a few problems with the mechanics. I bought a new cv joint, it as the abs ring in it ( it wasn't needed because the abs sensor don't need it ), but the mechanic didn't fitted the metal ring between the joint and the shaft, so now at 15 mph the car shakes a lot and I can't drive around. it doesn't end here. the tein top mounts were also wrongly fitted and ( no it isn't over ) I have a water hose with a hole... went to buy samcos but they still haven't arrived...