Removing engine please help
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Now with added 2.1 jun/cosworth power
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Removing engine please help
Hi all im removing the engine on my my94 sti, Iv hit a snag, i cant seem to seperate the engine and gearbox enough to lift the engine out, the dowles between engine and box are ok as have been copper eased when the clutch was last replaced. Can someone please tell me if the plunger (clutch release thing) has to be totally withdrawn from the gearbox iv leverd mine out about an inch is that ok as wont seem to come anymore or as i said does it have to be totally withdrawn.
Thanks in advance
Worbs
Thanks in advance
Worbs
#2
Disconnect the cluctch slave cylinder, then remove the release arm shaft that's hid behind a cap then pull the release arm out of the release bearing. It'll help to jack the gearbox up to help lift the engine mounts clear of the subframe.
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Now with added 2.1 jun/cosworth power
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by jim litten
Disconnect the cluctch slave cylinder, then remove the release arm shaft that's hid behind a cap then pull the release arm out of the release bearing. It'll help to jack the gearbox up to help lift the engine mounts clear of the subframe.
Is the release arm the one behind the 10mm allen key hex plug thing, behind the starter motor mate? if so iv managed to pull it out about an inch by using a 6mm bolt screwed into it, but does it have to be totally withdrawn from the gearbox, Iv also removed the clutch master cylinder.
Cheers again
Worbs
#4
Yep pull it all the way out as the fork on the release arm is quite wide and you don't want it snagging on anything. Hope you mean the slave cylinder, no need to touch the master as its sat on the bulkhead. This may sound daft, you have undone all the bolts and nuts, as the lower fixings are studs from the block and through the bell housing, you'll need to pull the engine forward quite a bit before it'll come up.
#5
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: birmingham
Posts: 771
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by worbs
Is the release arm the one behind the 10mm allen key hex plug thing, behind the starter motor mate? if so iv managed to pull it out about an inch by using a 6mm bolt screwed into it, but does it have to be totally withdrawn from the gearbox, Iv also removed the clutch master cylinder.
Cheers again
Worbs
Cheers again
Worbs
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Now with added 2.1 jun/cosworth power
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all your help fellas, i ment the slave cylinder lol, right of to the garage again for attempt 3 now im more the wiser lol
Cheers again peeps
Cheers again peeps
#7
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Now with added 2.1 jun/cosworth power
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Still no joy with removing the clutch fork pin thing, iv tried absolutley everthing and i cant budge it, it is completly welded, glued, stuck fast in there, i give up with the piece of s*** an i cant be botherd with it anymore, really thinkin about sticking it on fleebay as it stands
Trending Topics
#8
Slow down! We have all be there!
Through the rubber boot cover of the slave cylinder, sqirt CAREFULLY some WD40 at the large through shaft you cant get free/out.
Leve it for a while (a cn of beer sipped is a good idea, and then knock the shaft gently back IN and then prise it out etc till it is free.
My guess is there is a build-up of crud on the end opposite the threaded end and it simply needs rattling free.
Good luck
Graham
Through the rubber boot cover of the slave cylinder, sqirt CAREFULLY some WD40 at the large through shaft you cant get free/out.
Leve it for a while (a cn of beer sipped is a good idea, and then knock the shaft gently back IN and then prise it out etc till it is free.
My guess is there is a build-up of crud on the end opposite the threaded end and it simply needs rattling free.
Good luck
Graham
#9
You have made sure the engine mounts are clear of the subframe?
When you say its been apart already how long ago was that? it doesn't take long for ally and steel to corrode together, if you're careful then try putting wedges between the bell housing and the block.
When you say its been apart already how long ago was that? it doesn't take long for ally and steel to corrode together, if you're careful then try putting wedges between the bell housing and the block.
#10
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Now with added 2.1 jun/cosworth power
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Right peeps iv done it lol removed the pin and the engine lifted out perfectly, thanks very much for all your help it is very much apriciated, so now begins project version 1, lol. im not a mechanic but am an engineer by trade be it electrical i still think i can give this a good go, not 100% sure what im hoping for power etc wise but will work it out as i go along. time to start the project thread i think
Again thanks for your help peeps i may call upon you again in the near future as the car progreses.
Worbs
Again thanks for your help peeps i may call upon you again in the near future as the car progreses.
Worbs
#11
If you start a Projects thread, a rule of entry by the regulars is lots of pics or we won't read it all!
Good luck; I'm sure we will all club together to fix any probs! (maybe the clever one will anyhow)
Graham.
#12
I assume refitting is straightforward? slot the release arm the bearing in then the pivot pin just pushes back through? or are there any tricks worth knowing that make it easier to refit?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post