Clutch
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Clutch
My 95 wrx import has had a clutch done by the previous owner. Sometimes when I pull away it judders a lot, also if I'm pushing the car and changing gear quickly, the clutch pedal stays very low and I have to pull it back up with my foot. Any ideas what is up with it guys?
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could be the clutch slave cylinder, my missus crx is the same, just havent got round to fixing it yet!
basically means that it doesnt alwasy have enough pressure to push the pedal back up. Hope that helps...
basically means that it doesnt alwasy have enough pressure to push the pedal back up. Hope that helps...
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Originally Posted by tinysq
My 95 wrx import has had a clutch done by the previous owner. Sometimes when I pull away it judders a lot, also if I'm pushing the car and changing gear quickly, the clutch pedal stays very low and I have to pull it back up with my foot. Any ideas what is up with it guys?
Regards the clutch staying down, mine does this now and again but it is very rare. There is a little helper spring (to help bring the clutch back up when its been pressed) under intercooler that attaches to the block and the clutch fork, check it is there to start with and if it is, give it a spray with some WD40 it may bring it back to life. If that doesn't solve it, it may be the clutch master cylinder.
Craig
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That spring doesnt help the clutch pedal return, it just pulls the pivot arm so the release bearing is kept under moderate load to stop it rattling around.
its most likely as Neil suggests, a problem with the master cylinder, or a slight air lock in the clutch system.
its most likely as Neil suggests, a problem with the master cylinder, or a slight air lock in the clutch system.
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To cure [ most times ] the clutch pedal sticking down problem, we have been doing it the following way.
You need 2 people.
Take a tyre lever or big screw driver and force the clutch slave cylinder piston in as far as it will go - Hold it in firmly.
Open the bleed nipple and get the second person to pump the clutch pedal gently 2 or 3 times. I.E. bleed the clutch. DO NOT allow the tyre lever to move.
Then on the last push allow the pressure to force the tyre lever back to its original open position. tighten the nipple and it will have fixed the problem [ most times ]
It seems that over time the hygroscopic qualities of the clutch fluid allow air to form in the system and you get a small air lock. This then prevents the piston from fully retirning under hydraulic pressure and the pedal sticks down or halfway down.
David APi
www.apiengines.com
You need 2 people.
Take a tyre lever or big screw driver and force the clutch slave cylinder piston in as far as it will go - Hold it in firmly.
Open the bleed nipple and get the second person to pump the clutch pedal gently 2 or 3 times. I.E. bleed the clutch. DO NOT allow the tyre lever to move.
Then on the last push allow the pressure to force the tyre lever back to its original open position. tighten the nipple and it will have fixed the problem [ most times ]
It seems that over time the hygroscopic qualities of the clutch fluid allow air to form in the system and you get a small air lock. This then prevents the piston from fully retirning under hydraulic pressure and the pedal sticks down or halfway down.
David APi
www.apiengines.com
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Originally Posted by P20SPD
David, exactly what i do. Did this at the weekend, as that is the normal cure, but it wouldnt cure the problem, narrowed it down to a duff master cylinder in the end.
David
#13
Glad saw this on here mine is doing the same after a very crap car place thats supposed to do rally prep work in Basildon ,charged me a shed load of money to replace the clutch...(which only lasted 3 months !!!!) they recon they didnt know what was causing it and wanted to charge me again for 4Hours Labour (£200) and for a new clutch telling me it was a wear an tear item and wasnt under warrenty so dont go there !!!
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