Link vs. Unichip
#1
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To get proper boost control with the Unichip, you need a HKS EVC 4 to save fiddling with a boost control valve uder the bonnet.
So you paid £750, but add another £500 (ish) for the EVC, and you've paid £1250. And If I remember correctly, that is Link money (which includes the hardware, the installation, the mapping by Bob Rawle and a tuneup at a later date) Also the EVC can't tail off the boost near the top end of the rev range, unlike the Link.
I fully agree with Danny and SAM, go with the Link!
Hope this helps
Andy
[Edited by Andy Tang - 11/4/2001 8:49:40 PM]
So you paid £750, but add another £500 (ish) for the EVC, and you've paid £1250. And If I remember correctly, that is Link money (which includes the hardware, the installation, the mapping by Bob Rawle and a tuneup at a later date) Also the EVC can't tail off the boost near the top end of the rev range, unlike the Link.
I fully agree with Danny and SAM, go with the Link!
Hope this helps
Andy
[Edited by Andy Tang - 11/4/2001 8:49:40 PM]
#2
Hi,
OK, I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree! The Unichip with it's associated boost controller works just fine and it does not cost as much as the Link. IMHO it is a 'decent' controller and anybody looking at the Unichip should not be put off.........
Forgot to add that the Unichip boost controller is not somthing that's fiddled with under the bonnet, it's a small encapsulated module that plugs into the Unichip module, no user adjustments
[Edited by HarryBoy - 11/5/2001 11:13:55 AM]
OK, I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree! The Unichip with it's associated boost controller works just fine and it does not cost as much as the Link. IMHO it is a 'decent' controller and anybody looking at the Unichip should not be put off.........
Forgot to add that the Unichip boost controller is not somthing that's fiddled with under the bonnet, it's a small encapsulated module that plugs into the Unichip module, no user adjustments
[Edited by HarryBoy - 11/5/2001 11:13:55 AM]
#3
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Stelios,
Yes, the MoTeC is very good But there again, I'm told the Link is good too. I've also had personal experience of the Unichip and had many happy years with it.
Just seen Theo's post; Nicely put Theo.
Cheers
Ian
[Edited by IWatkins - 11/5/2001 4:33:34 PM]
Yes, the MoTeC is very good But there again, I'm told the Link is good too. I've also had personal experience of the Unichip and had many happy years with it.
Just seen Theo's post; Nicely put Theo.
Cheers
Ian
[Edited by IWatkins - 11/5/2001 4:33:34 PM]
#4
what do You guys think is the best?.
I see that in the US they are wery found of the unichip.
What would be best for high boost, bigger injectors, and a vf22.
regard from Denmark
Skassa
I see that in the US they are wery found of the unichip.
What would be best for high boost, bigger injectors, and a vf22.
regard from Denmark
Skassa
#5
By the time you have put a decent boost controller on a unichip, you are almost at the cost of a link. The link in MY opion is the better option.
Higher boost, I was running 18psi on the standard turbo, I did not have any problems with this. I have now progreseed to a hybrid turbo and larger injectors and all is running fine.
GO LINK.
Dan
Higher boost, I was running 18psi on the standard turbo, I did not have any problems with this. I have now progreseed to a hybrid turbo and larger injectors and all is running fine.
GO LINK.
Dan
#6
Hell...as much as it hurts me...I've got to agree with Dannyboy here.
Both setups will deliver the same effect, but the link has an advantage...you can do small changes yourself (providing you've got some knowledge of how stuff works).
/J
Both setups will deliver the same effect, but the link has an advantage...you can do small changes yourself (providing you've got some knowledge of how stuff works).
/J
#7
"By the time you have put a decent boost controller on a unichip, you are almost at the cost of a link."
How do you work that out?
Fitted to my car last year by Powerstation, Unichip and boost control valve plus voltage capper and RR mapped = £750 inc VAT.
How do you work that out?
Fitted to my car last year by Powerstation, Unichip and boost control valve plus voltage capper and RR mapped = £750 inc VAT.
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#8
Link is the best option because you can do away with your MAF sensor which causes us Subaru boys a pain in the rear after you have modified the airbox etc. Plus also means you have no limit to the size of the airbox and piping to the turbo.
#9
Hi Andy,
Sorry I must be slow this morning, why do you need to spend that much on a boost controller?
The one I had fitted was a Unichip part that integrated with the Unichip it's self, boost is correctly controlled in association with the Unichip, £110 plus VAT.
I still can't see how the prices are comparable......
Sorry I must be slow this morning, why do you need to spend that much on a boost controller?
The one I had fitted was a Unichip part that integrated with the Unichip it's self, boost is correctly controlled in association with the Unichip, £110 plus VAT.
I still can't see how the prices are comparable......
#11
Good info here. I plan the BPM larger inlet pipe, Samco hose kit and a Mac's K+N Induction kit. I already have a full Manifold to rear box exhaust upgrade from Scoobysport..
Most people seem to prefer the link option not the UNICHIP. Does anyone have a similar set up to me and what did the LINK do for them? I need to clear a jerky feel on light throttle openings. Did anyone else have this and fit a Link? The Link is £1400 so i dont want to make a bad purchase etc. Bob R is mentioned a few times for Link programming. Does he have a workshop out West somewhere?
cheers, Den
Most people seem to prefer the link option not the UNICHIP. Does anyone have a similar set up to me and what did the LINK do for them? I need to clear a jerky feel on light throttle openings. Did anyone else have this and fit a Link? The Link is £1400 so i dont want to make a bad purchase etc. Bob R is mentioned a few times for Link programming. Does he have a workshop out West somewhere?
cheers, Den
#12
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Harry,
Do you have to go under the bonnet to adjust the boost?
Have you noticed any overboost in the colder weather? Is the boost varying due to different weather conditions?
All I'm saying is that to obtain good boost controller, a HKS EVC is recommended, even by PowerStation!!
The EVC can adjust the boost in car. The EVC has overboost protection, and well as less variability in different weather conditions.
I have no issues with which ever way you spend you money! I had a EVC previously and I think it's a great bit of kit if used correction and in moderation!
But I'd rather have all the facts before making a decision such as changing a vital component in my car, like the ECU!
I did my research and settled on the Link, due the facilities it offered, cost and accessibility to the tuner! I looked at a PPP ECU, a boost controller, Unichip, Motec and the Link.
No offence was meant, as I obviously wasn't clear in what I said!
Cheers
Andy
Do you have to go under the bonnet to adjust the boost?
Have you noticed any overboost in the colder weather? Is the boost varying due to different weather conditions?
All I'm saying is that to obtain good boost controller, a HKS EVC is recommended, even by PowerStation!!
The EVC can adjust the boost in car. The EVC has overboost protection, and well as less variability in different weather conditions.
I have no issues with which ever way you spend you money! I had a EVC previously and I think it's a great bit of kit if used correction and in moderation!
But I'd rather have all the facts before making a decision such as changing a vital component in my car, like the ECU!
I did my research and settled on the Link, due the facilities it offered, cost and accessibility to the tuner! I looked at a PPP ECU, a boost controller, Unichip, Motec and the Link.
No offence was meant, as I obviously wasn't clear in what I said!
Cheers
Andy
#13
Hi Andy,
You now have me worried, I did not know PS recommend the HKS, when did they start doing that? The little module I have has no adjustments under the bonnet, the module has an atmospheric vent on it and a wiring plug, It sits in the footwell along side the Unichip it's self.
Adding an HKS to the equation at £400 plus VAT makes it less attractive than before so I can see where your are coming from...
You now have me worried, I did not know PS recommend the HKS, when did they start doing that? The little module I have has no adjustments under the bonnet, the module has an atmospheric vent on it and a wiring plug, It sits in the footwell along side the Unichip it's self.
Adding an HKS to the equation at £400 plus VAT makes it less attractive than before so I can see where your are coming from...
#14
A mate of mine was going to go the Unichip/EBC route this summer...and Powerstation DID in fact recommend the HKS @ 400 +VAT along with the Unichip.
Needless to say he got a Link instead.
/J
Needless to say he got a Link instead.
/J
#16
Andy, just for your info ...
I *think* (note I'm being careful here ) that PS did not want to use the APS/Dastek boost controller for a specific reason. Up until a few months ago, the boost controller (separate box, connected to the Unichip), after using it a while, "fried" in certain conditions, sending a 100 % duty cycle signal to the solenoid, and thus causing boost that was way to high. I'm not a technician, but it was a specific problem to do with the Impreza boost solenoid. A very annoying problem ( I know ), but that was rectified a few months ago by adding a resistor.
Since that mod, the boost controller works with no problems.
As for "reaching under the bonnet": no, that's not the way it works. Basically, you create an RPM related map in the Unichip software, tailored to your car/your turbo. You can map it to trail off starting at the desired point. I think there are 7 RPM sites, they are interpolated, so you can really create the boost curve you want with that combination. (I imagine just like you do with the Link). The boost controller (size of a matchbox) is only needed to translate those maps into a Hz duty cycle specific to the Impreza. (don't forget that the Unichip is meant to be used with a variety of cars - hence it's name - and is not made specifically for the Impreza)
Important: I'm talking MY99 / MY00 here. MY01 works entirely different.
One thing I don't like about this setup at the moment is that it is "2D" ... you may want different boost curves (and thus: different duty cycle maps) for different gears. The next Unichip version would include that information (don't know when it's due)
I'm not saying this to participate in the "which is better" discussion - I've seen enough of those, and frankly I think they are less than productive. I'm just trying to keep the information balanced.... the current Unichip/boost controller combo works as promised.
And, just like I said in about all the other discussions about this so far: hardware is just hardware. It's the mapping dude that normally makes the difference.
To conclude: I see too many "stock" answers lately on Scoobynet, and I really don't like it. This is not a dab at any of the previous posters, but I still believe that we need to give factual information.
Anyhoo, y'all want me to say "GO LINK" innit
Theo
I *think* (note I'm being careful here ) that PS did not want to use the APS/Dastek boost controller for a specific reason. Up until a few months ago, the boost controller (separate box, connected to the Unichip), after using it a while, "fried" in certain conditions, sending a 100 % duty cycle signal to the solenoid, and thus causing boost that was way to high. I'm not a technician, but it was a specific problem to do with the Impreza boost solenoid. A very annoying problem ( I know ), but that was rectified a few months ago by adding a resistor.
Since that mod, the boost controller works with no problems.
As for "reaching under the bonnet": no, that's not the way it works. Basically, you create an RPM related map in the Unichip software, tailored to your car/your turbo. You can map it to trail off starting at the desired point. I think there are 7 RPM sites, they are interpolated, so you can really create the boost curve you want with that combination. (I imagine just like you do with the Link). The boost controller (size of a matchbox) is only needed to translate those maps into a Hz duty cycle specific to the Impreza. (don't forget that the Unichip is meant to be used with a variety of cars - hence it's name - and is not made specifically for the Impreza)
Important: I'm talking MY99 / MY00 here. MY01 works entirely different.
One thing I don't like about this setup at the moment is that it is "2D" ... you may want different boost curves (and thus: different duty cycle maps) for different gears. The next Unichip version would include that information (don't know when it's due)
I'm not saying this to participate in the "which is better" discussion - I've seen enough of those, and frankly I think they are less than productive. I'm just trying to keep the information balanced.... the current Unichip/boost controller combo works as promised.
And, just like I said in about all the other discussions about this so far: hardware is just hardware. It's the mapping dude that normally makes the difference.
To conclude: I see too many "stock" answers lately on Scoobynet, and I really don't like it. This is not a dab at any of the previous posters, but I still believe that we need to give factual information.
Anyhoo, y'all want me to say "GO LINK" innit
Theo
#18
Yes; I did you Fjord But that had nothing to do with the Unichip, but everything with the cheap "remove resonator from wing" mod I got myself into
I'm (half ) serious though ... maybe I have way to much time on my hands, but I see a pattern ...
a) guys, what's cool ?
b) you *gotta* have mod xyz, coolest on earth
c) WAHEY, I only have to wait 3 months for it
d) I GOT IT ! It even improved my throttle response (PUKE !)
e) Yeah, me too, forget option x, go for y
f) "I'm not gonna name names, but my car just blew up (I think)"
g) "Company X is da DEVIL !!!"
h) GOTO a)
If you care to read the full history of Drivetrain (start with page 1), you will know what I'm trying to say.
Too much opinion, not enough factual information.
Products or companies first being promoted to god-like status, and after that being burned to the ground. Both sentiments obviously wrong...
#20
Theo...U on the pad mate?
I hear you though, and sorta agree. But after all the link rules.
*lol*
Seriously, getting back on the topic...NO remappable ecu, be that a replacement board, or a piggyback is any better than the fella that's mapping it.
The link has the advantage that you can do small adjustments yourself - the Unichip has the exact same advantage - only the other way round.
U pays yer money...blablabla.
/J
I hear you though, and sorta agree. But after all the link rules.
*lol*
Seriously, getting back on the topic...NO remappable ecu, be that a replacement board, or a piggyback is any better than the fella that's mapping it.
The link has the advantage that you can do small adjustments yourself - the Unichip has the exact same advantage - only the other way round.
U pays yer money...blablabla.
/J
#21
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Theo,
Nah, chopped the old smoker in for a new car for the missus (am I a sucker or what ?). Didn't get around to fitting the MoTeC in the end, didn't want to double the value of the car
Cheers
Ian
Nah, chopped the old smoker in for a new car for the missus (am I a sucker or what ?). Didn't get around to fitting the MoTeC in the end, didn't want to double the value of the car
Cheers
Ian
#23
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Skassa,
I would recommend that you check to see whether you can find someone who knows what they are doing to map a Link for you locally.
As I think Jerry said, find someone who can map and you can trust locally, then see what they have on offer.
Cheers
Ian
I would recommend that you check to see whether you can find someone who knows what they are doing to map a Link for you locally.
As I think Jerry said, find someone who can map and you can trust locally, then see what they have on offer.
Cheers
Ian
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