The car is a 95 WRX

Ive recently had my car back from a bottom end rebuild which had been run in for 1000miles under 3k rpm.

Ive done another 1k now and not really thrashed the car anywhere and have always been using optimax and octane booster. Just recently have topped up the oil with some magnatec.

Over the last few days on start up there has been a tapping coming from the engine when cold and warm.

Ive had a listen to the engine but couldnt really tell where the noise was coming from but never the less carried onto work. When i finished and came back to my car some hours later the noise was not there started up fine and no tapping what so ever.

Since then the car has been starting somedays with the tap and somedays without its just annoying when its there as i can hear it while driving as it rises with the revs.

Has anybody else had this problem? im pretty sure it isnt the big end as the noise isnt consistent and its only been out of the garage for 2 months, all i can think of is the tappets but wouldnt they just tap everytime the car started?

Thanks for any advice.

A once again very paranoid impreza driver

 

Sounds like tappets..

they are hydrulic and therefore filled with oil on the 95 wrx.

I would ditch the magnetec and use Motul 15W50 300v Competition.. magnetec is not up to the job imho.

I used www.camskill.com but there are other supplies of motul etc.

Simon

 

Who did the rebuild ??
Has the noise only just started ??

 

Yes its only just started 2 months after the rebuild.

It was done by a company called Auto Detail in Rotherham.

Checked the car this morning and the tap was still there. Hasnt increased in sound at all still the same as when it first started and its done 200 miles since then.

 

Not being funny but clicking injectors sound a bit tappety sometimes. If it is then its nothing to worry about, some click, some don't it seems.

 

i went and started the car over and stood from the back.

At idle you can hear the tapping above my vortex backbox

Im going to change the oil in the next few days while its stood and then nip it upto the local subaru dealer.

 

injectors remain ticking though.. his noise disappears after 200miles and description sounds like the hydrolic tappets.

Simon

 

Sorry i may have mis-typed. The ticking started approx 200 miles ago and is still there.

The noise has not increased and does get slightly quieter after a good run.

Took it for a quick drive last night and there is no loss of power at all and everything runs fine and pulls well.

Just the annoying sound

Ill change the oil and see if it makes any difference, thanks for everyones help

 

Tap Tap, grind, bang. Was bottom end again bye bye subaru.

Ah well itll come bk stronger and can i please say that Auto Detail in Rotherham, thanks for bodging the job and not replacing the oil pump you stated you replaced with an uprated item.

 

FU#K FU#K FU#K FU#K FU#K FU#K.............................

That was not the end i was expecting. No way should that happen after 2 months. Can understand a piston melting again if running a jap ECU and would be your fault on **** petrol but not big end!!!!!!!!

 

How much they charge you for rebuild????? Obviously done on cheap there end???

 

2k i didnt pay last time the garage did. Now 500 miles after the 1k run in period its gone again and there querieng my manor of driving :s

The cars never been above 6k rpm and ive never gave it any until at least 3rd gear and it'd had never gone over 100 mph.

Im in the process of getting an engineers report and ill take it from there and try and get my money back for this rebuild.

Its going to central subaru this time in willenhall as ive heard some good things

 

Just one thing to bear in mind.

When running in, you should only use a normal mineral oil, not semi/full synthetic and not Magnatec.

Reason being is everthing needs to bed in for the first 1K miles.
after this you can use a Semi synthetic then a fully synthetic can be
used after around 3K.

Rob

 

Thanks rob ill bear that in mind next time. They never gave me any advice really and were pretty much "the jobs done, bye" kind of people. I didnt even change the oil until after the 1k run in but they never explained about the semi synthetic.

Ill know for next time

Many Thanks

Ben

 

Rob, not fully correct IMHO.

If only bearings are changed then mineral is not needed... Rings/cams yes

Also not for 1kmiles, that will do the engine no good.

Rob

 

We are talking about a bottom end rebuild here.

Using a semi/fully synthetic oil will not allow the new bearings/rings/cams etc
to bed in properly due to it's friction reducing properties.

A running in/mineral oil should be used up to 1K keeping the car below 4000rpm.

Rob

 

Define bedding in new bearings?

Agreed rebuild can be full set of parts, but big end failure can be crank and bearings only.

Rob

p.s. not being funny i am here to learn