s_c_o_o_b_y

ive done a search but all i got was a headache when some1 asks this question it seems to spark off a big descusion about oil 5w40,5w50,10w40,10w50,15w40,15w50 etc i have a my94 classic wrx sti with few mods(exhaust,decat,air filter) with nearly 100k up its ****, i just wanted to know what would be the best oil for my spec(without hearing any unusual noises that some oils apparently do) cheers will

crusher

Motul 10/40

timmyajmy93wrx

iTrader: (27)

told ya will cant go wrong with motul

tim

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Motul or Silkolene, both good oils.

Cheers
Simon

vulnax999

iTrader: (7)

Many good oils.

You want a good fully synthetic oil, even better if it has a good % of esters in it ( as does Motul 300v ).

I have used castrol RS, Mobil 1 motorsport, and all worked well.

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Ester is a group V basestock and it's addition is a real plus.

All jet engines are lubricated with synthetic esters, and have been for 50 years, but these expensive fluids only started to appear in petrol engine oils about 20 years ago. Thanks to their aviation origins, the types suitable for lubricants work well from –50 degC to 200 degC, and they have a useful extra trick.

Due to their structure, ester molecules are “polar”; they stick to metal surfaces using electrostatic forces. This means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period. This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non-pressure fed film has to hold the surface apart. Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film.

The likes of Silkolene PRO, Motul 300V and Redline are a few that contain a healthy dose of esters.

Cheers
Simon

pslewis

http://www.commaoil.com/Product%20%2...-10w-40-5L.gif

£15 for 5 Litres and recommended by my Motor Factors - an Oil change every 6 months means that you really would be wasting your money buying the expensive ones IMO

Pete

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Understand your maths Pete, but bear in mind it's cheap because it's a mineral oil (petroleum basestocks) with a small % of hydrocraked (petroleum basestock) to make the semi-synthetic claim.

Thought people ought to know this.

Cheers
Simon

Vegescoob

Oh goodness!
I've just had a thought, do you think Pete posts on aviation boards.
"What oil is ok for my 25 years old 747? and I don't thrash it".
"Get down your local motor factors".

Graz

It's alright he doesn't drive his scoob hard enough to cause any engine wear Mind you all the engine braking he does can't do it or the gearbox any favours. Can't see any other way you would get 60k out of a set of pads. As my driving instructor told me when I overused the engine braking.... set of pads cost £50, engine rebuild much more.

Davecar

I have used Mobil1 40 grade for 3 years now with no problems, easy to get too at halfords.

oilman

iTrader: (9)

Oh gosh not 0w-40. Shhh don't mention 0w here, your engine will fail

Cheers
Simon

TonyFlow