shape of combustion chamber for 2,5?
#1
shape of combustion chamber for 2,5?
Hello!
What you Guys think will be the best shape for the combustion chamber when using european GT Heads on a 2,5 Block?
Do youthink the diameter should match the diameter of the bore?
are the edges wich are there any good in the 2,5?
are they a spot for detonation?
How you meassuring the exakt volume of the Head?
What you Guys think will be the best shape for the combustion chamber when using european GT Heads on a 2,5 Block?
Do youthink the diameter should match the diameter of the bore?
are the edges wich are there any good in the 2,5?
are they a spot for detonation?
How you meassuring the exakt volume of the Head?
#3
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: 348/330 on a 90*entry TD05 16G
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Never touched a subaru engine, but used to set up my own race bike engines so I can give you my opinion if it helps.
Personally I would match the diameter of the combustion chamber to the cylinder diameter as like you say a lip could cause detonation
I once totally wrecked a new set of pistons in 5 laps of mallory park ( about 6 miles ) from detonation due to trying out a new fuel.
To check volume I used a burette, basically a thin glass tube with markings on.
Get the piston to TDC, best use a dial gauge to do this. Fill the burette with a mix of fuel and a little oil, Ratio approx 5:1.
Take note of where the fuel level is on the burette then fill the cylinder to the top of the spark plug hole then take a look at the level on burette and work out how much fuel was used
This will tell you the volume. I have no idea of what the volume should be for your engine but im sure some of the guys on here will be able to.
Hope thats of some help.
Andy
Personally I would match the diameter of the combustion chamber to the cylinder diameter as like you say a lip could cause detonation
I once totally wrecked a new set of pistons in 5 laps of mallory park ( about 6 miles ) from detonation due to trying out a new fuel.
To check volume I used a burette, basically a thin glass tube with markings on.
Get the piston to TDC, best use a dial gauge to do this. Fill the burette with a mix of fuel and a little oil, Ratio approx 5:1.
Take note of where the fuel level is on the burette then fill the cylinder to the top of the spark plug hole then take a look at the level on burette and work out how much fuel was used
This will tell you the volume. I have no idea of what the volume should be for your engine but im sure some of the guys on here will be able to.
Hope thats of some help.
Andy
#6
Hi Rob,
Do I need to use Sti3 cams or something like it? Would the 02 oe cams just not flow enough and cause timing/running problems?
Did you get your heads shaped for the 2.5L bore? If so, who did it and how much?
Do I need to use Sti3 cams or something like it? Would the 02 oe cams just not flow enough and cause timing/running problems?
Did you get your heads shaped for the 2.5L bore? If so, who did it and how much?
#7
I think it would be fine to match the bore to the cylinder but simple remove the edge?
wich angle?
I think best method to find out reall combustion volume it with a glas/plexi plate fitted to the head an the filled up with fuel and measure the amount.
wich angle?
I think best method to find out reall combustion volume it with a glas/plexi plate fitted to the head an the filled up with fuel and measure the amount.
Trending Topics
#8
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: 348/330 on a 90*entry TD05 16G
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
quote.
I think best method to find out reall combustion volume it with a glas/plexi plate fitted to the head an the filled up with fuel and measure the amount.
This will tell you the exact volume of the head, however you need the volume of the combustion chamber with the head fitted back on.
Dont forget there are other things to take into account. i.e. head gasket thickness, shape of piston top and distance from piston top to block.
Andy
I think best method to find out reall combustion volume it with a glas/plexi plate fitted to the head an the filled up with fuel and measure the amount.
This will tell you the exact volume of the head, however you need the volume of the combustion chamber with the head fitted back on.
Dont forget there are other things to take into account. i.e. head gasket thickness, shape of piston top and distance from piston top to block.
Andy
#9
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fcon Power Writer
Posts: 4,338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Unfortunately you are a bit limited with replacement cams, on two 2002 cars i have been part of and one other that i have experienced...
Gotta go will continue when i get to work...
Rob
Gotta go will continue when i get to work...
Rob
#10
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fcon Power Writer
Posts: 4,338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On the two cars i have been part of and the other car the top end has been sacrifised using the std cams, My choice would be to use Ver 5 Sti valvetrain and your manifold etc.
I worked my own heads and tbh they did work well but i would reccomend Pavlo to do another set, The most important thing to sort out on the combustion chambers is not so much the bore match but the high points and sharp edges.
John Banks may be worth speaking to regarding heads as Pavlo also did his.
I would say correctly worked heads using a std 257 could be worth up to 8degrees timing.
Rob
I worked my own heads and tbh they did work well but i would reccomend Pavlo to do another set, The most important thing to sort out on the combustion chambers is not so much the bore match but the high points and sharp edges.
John Banks may be worth speaking to regarding heads as Pavlo also did his.
I would say correctly worked heads using a std 257 could be worth up to 8degrees timing.
Rob
#11
Sure you had to consider the Piston top and the Head gasket also but this you can calculate the volume of the head combustion you can not calculate (or maybe just i cant ;-))
So first you need the head volume while shaping it to the right size to campare between the cylinders an the you need it to calculate the complete Volume.
sharp edges (more or less) and high points are normaly added to the Head for mixing the fuel air mixture and giving the same A/F mixture in the whole combustion chamber (at least this is on N/A engines like this maybe not on a turbo engine). The mixture is squezzed out between the upwards moving piston and the high point in the head wich mixes the air and the fuel better up.
So complete removing of these spots and edges is a good thing? Do we need this higher areas on the Turbo engine also to mix the mixture better up or are these spots only a cause for knocking?
Who have worked on a head for e EJ257 engine?
What have you done to the combustion chamber?
Wich shape?
Wich results you get with this heads compared to an OE head?
Is a bowl head the best solution? everythin smooth and plain?
Do you polish the combustion chamber?
So first you need the head volume while shaping it to the right size to campare between the cylinders an the you need it to calculate the complete Volume.
sharp edges (more or less) and high points are normaly added to the Head for mixing the fuel air mixture and giving the same A/F mixture in the whole combustion chamber (at least this is on N/A engines like this maybe not on a turbo engine). The mixture is squezzed out between the upwards moving piston and the high point in the head wich mixes the air and the fuel better up.
So complete removing of these spots and edges is a good thing? Do we need this higher areas on the Turbo engine also to mix the mixture better up or are these spots only a cause for knocking?
Who have worked on a head for e EJ257 engine?
What have you done to the combustion chamber?
Wich shape?
Wich results you get with this heads compared to an OE head?
Is a bowl head the best solution? everythin smooth and plain?
Do you polish the combustion chamber?
#12
Rob
Are you saying the best option would be STi5 valve train (valves & cams etc)in a phase 1 head (casting) and a phase 1.5 inlet manifold?
Reason for doing this would be;
-Reduce cracking around the spark plug?
-Better balanced inlet manifold
Mark
Are you saying the best option would be STi5 valve train (valves & cams etc)in a phase 1 head (casting) and a phase 1.5 inlet manifold?
Reason for doing this would be;
-Reduce cracking around the spark plug?
-Better balanced inlet manifold
Mark
#13
I always thought a smooth clean surface was best for the big bang as it leaves less carbon deposits....but then, I'm no expert.
Cheers for the info Rob...not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it all yet (no light at the end of the tunnel!).
One thing for sure, the heads need to match bore size - I really dont like the sound of a lip inside the cylinder!
Cheers for the info Rob...not sure exactly what I'm going to do with it all yet (no light at the end of the tunnel!).
One thing for sure, the heads need to match bore size - I really dont like the sound of a lip inside the cylinder!
#14
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In a 405 BHP/360 ft/lb P1 with SN superstar Sonic dog at my side!
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the chambers do not need to be polished, but certainly need to be smooth. correct AFR is more important to stop carbon build up, but carbon build up is not a huge problem. you are going to get it using unleaded fuel unless you run the engine at racing speeds all the time. if you are doing any work in the inlet ports as well, you should not polish them for sure.
any sharp points or rapid angle changes, wether on the edge of the chamber leading into the bores, in the centre of the chamber, or on the lead into the valve seats should be avoided. the material at these points will always be a little bit hotter, therefore just giving that little bit more of an excuse for det to start.
any sharp points or rapid angle changes, wether on the edge of the chamber leading into the bores, in the centre of the chamber, or on the lead into the valve seats should be avoided. the material at these points will always be a little bit hotter, therefore just giving that little bit more of an excuse for det to start.
#16
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: In a 405 BHP/360 ft/lb P1 with SN superstar Sonic dog at my side!
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Absolute Shower
Got it, ports polished more important...
Anyone know a place I can get STi v5 valve train from?
Anyone know a place I can get STi v5 valve train from?
you should not polish your ports. the profile should be smooth, but not polished. i have proved on a flow bench one more than one occassion to people that did not believe this that there is no difference in CF/M flow between a polished and rough port. so there is no point in doing it. unfortunately a lot of customers like to see a polished port, so a lot of tuners do it! a slightly rougher finish actually helps atomisation of the charge, due to a small 'tumbling' effect as it flows over the peaks and troughs of the port finish. its all tiny gains though, and not really applicable unless you are talking about a full race motor. the shape and contour of a chamber or port is far more important than its finish. i work solely on NA bike engines where things like this can make a difference, with an FI engine there is a lot easier ways to get power in big spades, as we all know!!!
#17
I see...cheers for confirming this - wont bother with polish etc...just make sure shape etc is okay.
Can I just fit STi v5 cams straight into my 02 heads without mods and would this be enough (once lip in bore removed) to make use of the full 2.5L engine?
Can I just fit STi v5 cams straight into my 02 heads without mods and would this be enough (once lip in bore removed) to make use of the full 2.5L engine?
#18
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fcon Power Writer
Posts: 4,338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mark, the best manifold to use (proven) is the early phase one manifold... i personally rate this over all the other MY inlets. STi5 Valvetrain wont fit into phase one head casting.
My choice on phase 1-1.5 would be Sti3 cams or Type Ra like i used.
P1mark, exactly my thoughts... any sharp edges need to be adressed for starters.
The exhaust ports are the most important IMHO, Gas flow through these make the biggest difference.
Rob
My choice on phase 1-1.5 would be Sti3 cams or Type Ra like i used.
P1mark, exactly my thoughts... any sharp edges need to be adressed for starters.
The exhaust ports are the most important IMHO, Gas flow through these make the biggest difference.
Rob
#20
Rob, ref your last reply...so I'm okay to use STiv 5 cams on phase 2 heads (02 WRX) and get the high points and lip sorted but not polished. If so, just need to sort set of cams - know anyone that supplies STi v5 cams or maybe remakes them and not for silly money?
#21
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fcon Power Writer
Posts: 4,338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The cams will need to be reshimmed etc.. best move IMHO is to speak to Paul (pavlo) about it. He can also sort out the reshimming porting etc so that you can basically just bolt the heads on finished.
Rob
Rob
#22
Okay cheers Rob - tops.
Think I'll see what my local garage can do first (as they're local, plus they setup full rally spec cars) and then contact Paul if can't do heads work.
Think I'll see what my local garage can do first (as they're local, plus they setup full rally spec cars) and then contact Paul if can't do heads work.
Last edited by Absolute Shower; 15 April 2005 at 02:31 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mattybr5@MB Developments
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
12
18 November 2015 07:03 AM
bluebullet29
General Technical
9
05 October 2015 02:17 PM
Flat4x4-again
General Technical
2
29 September 2015 06:32 PM