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Do I need to reset my ECU???

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Old 15 March 2005, 12:59 PM
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Feffers
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Default Do I need to reset my ECU???

Whats all this about then? Is it worth doing? Ive got a fresh 96 WRX import.

"ECU Reset by Disconnecting the Battery


Fill the tank with your normal grade of fuel, either unleaded(95 RON) or super unleaded (98 RON), hopefully choosing a good source,( bad petrol will defeat the object of an ecu reset), and drive 10 - 20 miles (more if possible) to ensure that the good fuel has refreshed all the parts it should do.
1.Park up and unplug the battery, thus killing the power to every system on the car,including the Engine management system.2.Wait about 1/2 hour to 1 hour before re-connecting. The ECU will be forced to reset tofactory defaults and on detecting the 95/98 RON fuel, give you better performance once you have given it a drive out to get the fuel registered. Obviously, if you switch back to bad petrol the ECU will reducing the timing to compensate but providing you listen to the car and change gear as you drop out of the power zone and not at the red line, you should be able to have optimum performance.3.One word of warning, putting the car under serious load while doing this won't work.This process, will indeed put maximum load on the engine, and is therefore likely to lead to knocking and hence the ECU will REDUCE the performance."
Old 15 March 2005, 01:06 PM
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richiewong
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I would NEVER put 95 ron petrol in any Scoob let alone an import
Imports are mapped to run 100-102 ron so stick with SUL or, preferably Optimax and a good booster.

Also ECU can be checked and reset by looking here
Old 15 March 2005, 01:07 PM
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..and get a knocklink
Old 15 March 2005, 01:41 PM
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corradoboy
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Can't you reset the ECU on classics using the connector blocks below the steering column ? Echo the concerns over 95 ron fuel I've heard of folks doing this just before RR sessions. Reset ECU, load car up with fat mates and drive up some long steep hills. Pull up at RR and be amazed at how the map compensates Doesn't work on newage though. The map's too quick to learn and you need SECS/Delta to do a reset
Old 15 March 2005, 02:47 PM
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Hello Phil, Id echo whats already been said; the article that youre quoting relates to a UK car not a JDM. Older cars like this have a rather simple (****e) ECU which wont adapt to better fuel; later cars dont need an ECU reset at all. Until such time as you either get a ScoobyECU or perhaps an A'pexi PFC Id suggest using Shell Optimax or perhaps Esso SUL with 60ml of Nitrous Formula Race (Black) octane booster -NF is the best and the most economical octane booster-. Is this the blue grade 3.5 car?

Simon
Old 15 March 2005, 04:28 PM
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Cheers for the advice. I was aware that I need to run the best fuel possible with NF but was unsure if id need to rest the ECU. That will be a big fat no then!

Simon - It is Blue and it is a grade 3.5 but its not the one I was talking to you about. That one was shocking. The dealer tells me on the phone its done 50k miles. I get down there and straight away see that its done over 130000kms. He said "errr I got my calculations mixed up" Tell you what mate, ill take a focking half day off work for you to waste my time. T0sser. Added to the completely bemused face when I asked him for the auction apprasial form.

Picked up a Blue 96 WRX, 50k miles and in much better condition. 5k with a years warranty. nice!
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