green thunder

I'm currently thinking of bying a dual stage manual boost controller or single stage manual boost controller.
After looking for days on the world wide web i'm more confused about which one is best. :S

Any help from you guy's is welcome.

Ps; it's a My99
Mods currently are: complete scooby from downpipe to backbox and K&N filterpanel. Boost gauge is installed, Lumention AFR meter and HKS feuk cut defender are waighting to be installed. Knock link sensor is to be orderd from the moment i have someone with a good (read cheap :P) price.
Mods i would like to do in the future are MBC and manifold (which one i still don't know)
Remap is not one my to do list. (not yet)

green thunder

Nobody?
Or did i just asked a stupid question?

Aztec Performance Ltd

iTrader: (234)

write it in English and somebody might be able to answer your questions

Bob

TARManiAC

Boooo Bob.

green thunder

I thougth my english was not that bad

My question again in english this time

Which manual boostcontroller should i bye?
I did do a search here on the forum, but did not find an answer to my question.

Any advice is welcome and appreciated if it is on topic off-course

Peanuts

iTrader: (15)

you have followed a typical path of tuning.
Its very effective and the gains that can be had at your level are very cost effective.
Be sure that you want to continue as the road is slippery and the goal posts keep shifting......

you have a full decat and panel filter so far, is that right?
Before you fit any form of boost control wait until you have installed your AFR and Knocklink.
The old favourite used to be the dawesdevice™, I think that Jamie (of J W Racing) is the UK distributor so if you want new its going to be through him, try a google and you will get his number.
Dawes is a single stage boost controller, you increase/decrease the thread on a bleed valve between the actuator and the boost solenoid to effectively remove boost control from the cars ECU. (I think Im right in that).
You can (on a my99) raise it to about 1.1bar before hitting fuel cut.
decat/filter/dawes has been known to produce anywhere between 245 -> 270 bhp depending on rolling road choice. The next step would be something like an apexi avc-r which can be had for under £300 and is an electronic boost controller, very, very good bit of kit and well worth looking at now if you can afford it


Headers.
very good gains (up to 25ft lbs of torque), much lighter in weight, ideally need a remap. Cost can be anywhere from £250 (Megan) to £800+ (HKS), depending on whether you go for equal length or unequal length will depend on how the car sounds, some people crave the flat four burble that you hear so much about and so keep unequal length headers, the equal length dont sound as enticing at low speed levels but sound like a big bore motorcycle above 5k rpm.
thing with headers is you get an increase in power/torque, but it moves the power band further up the rev range, you need to work the car more to get the benefit.

Remap,
at the moment, your ecu will be able (within reason) to compensate for decat/filter swap etc by monitoring the MAF and Lambda voltage and adjusting accordingly within closed loop running, you need the KL/AFR etc to see whats going on when under boost conditions as this is generally when the damage will occur.
You will not make the best gain from your mods this way, dont rule out a remap, there are many choices available to you from Apexi, link, ecutek-tek3, gems etc all varying in cost/toys.
can be done for as little as £585 (Tek3) on a group buy and will make much better gains from your mods by fine tuning the engine to suit individual conditions.
(I now run Apexi Power FC and a td05 somewhere over 300bhp)

you need more info, just hollar