Idiots guide to gearbox removal
30 January 2005, 05:28 PM
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Idiots guide to gearbox removal
As it says.
Any body got of list on how and what to do, and any particular order. Looked in Chilton and it's not very clear.
Mark A
Any body got of list on how and what to do, and any particular order. Looked in Chilton and it's not very clear.
Mark A
30 January 2005, 08:12 PM
#2
Chilton is very weak.
This is '911's' version, but Greasemonkey did a killer version ages ago, about 2 years I think (in the old format Snet days).
Jack car up very high and level, especially if you are taking the box right away from the car.
Drain oil, remove propshaft centre bearing and pull out of box.
Remove d/p to gearbox bolts (2 of them). Drift out the roll pins that hold the gear shift linkage to the box selector shaft
Remove TMIC, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder and all wires off the box to various parts of the engine bay.
Just by the starter motor location you must find a 20mm dia cover screw with a hex socket in it and unscrew/remove it.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Undo all 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine. Nothing will move as the 2 dowls that locate the part together will be corroded so tight you will think it is all welded together. Apply WD40 on the dowls.
You need to pull the front driveshafts out now. Remove the lower ball joints on each side of the front suspension, surprisingly easy! Get to the CV joint on the shaft both sides and drift out the scroll pins (very tight). Pull each hub assembly hard and the shaft will pull out of the box no probs.
That's the EASY bit done
You MUST have a proper or very very good jack to take the weight of the transmission, it is seriously heavy. Remove the gearbox cross member after placing the support under the box, very close to the bell housing; you have to split the bell housing off the engine by brute force, cursing, and any means you can.
Once free (mine first took 2 whole hours) the box will slide back about 80mm to freedom and will try to fall off the jack!
I bought a Draper transmission jack, utterly invaluable.
Removeal is not the reverse of the above.
You need to free the clutch thrust bearing off the clip in the clutch cover. Removed, place the bearing onto the gearbox input shaft sleeve, thread the clutch release arm onto it, and feed in the pivot pin (use coppa slip on re assy) and the cover to finish it off.
When the box is back on and bolted tight, grab the exposed clutch arm where the cylinder goes and push it very hard towards the baulkhead so you feel and hear a click and the lever feels positioned in place. This bit is MOST important to get right or you will have to do this all over again.
REALLY REALLY think hard about doing this job yourself unless you are used to this kind of fight, realy hard graft, especially on your own. I've done it 3 times now and have the scars.
I might have missed some small details, but I think the above will get you there.
ps, the 6 speeder is 30kg more than the 5 speeder and bigger!
Good luck! Graham.
This is '911's' version, but Greasemonkey did a killer version ages ago, about 2 years I think (in the old format Snet days).
Jack car up very high and level, especially if you are taking the box right away from the car.
Drain oil, remove propshaft centre bearing and pull out of box.
Remove d/p to gearbox bolts (2 of them). Drift out the roll pins that hold the gear shift linkage to the box selector shaft
Remove TMIC, starter motor, clutch slave cylinder and all wires off the box to various parts of the engine bay.
Just by the starter motor location you must find a 20mm dia cover screw with a hex socket in it and unscrew/remove it.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Undo all 4 bolts that hold the bell housing to the engine. Nothing will move as the 2 dowls that locate the part together will be corroded so tight you will think it is all welded together. Apply WD40 on the dowls.
You need to pull the front driveshafts out now. Remove the lower ball joints on each side of the front suspension, surprisingly easy! Get to the CV joint on the shaft both sides and drift out the scroll pins (very tight). Pull each hub assembly hard and the shaft will pull out of the box no probs.
That's the EASY bit done
You MUST have a proper or very very good jack to take the weight of the transmission, it is seriously heavy. Remove the gearbox cross member after placing the support under the box, very close to the bell housing; you have to split the bell housing off the engine by brute force, cursing, and any means you can.
Once free (mine first took 2 whole hours) the box will slide back about 80mm to freedom and will try to fall off the jack!
I bought a Draper transmission jack, utterly invaluable.
Removeal is not the reverse of the above.
You need to free the clutch thrust bearing off the clip in the clutch cover. Removed, place the bearing onto the gearbox input shaft sleeve, thread the clutch release arm onto it, and feed in the pivot pin (use coppa slip on re assy) and the cover to finish it off.
When the box is back on and bolted tight, grab the exposed clutch arm where the cylinder goes and push it very hard towards the baulkhead so you feel and hear a click and the lever feels positioned in place. This bit is MOST important to get right or you will have to do this all over again.
REALLY REALLY think hard about doing this job yourself unless you are used to this kind of fight, realy hard graft, especially on your own. I've done it 3 times now and have the scars.
I might have missed some small details, but I think the above will get you there.
ps, the 6 speeder is 30kg more than the 5 speeder and bigger!
Good luck! Graham.
Last edited by 911; 30 January 2005 at 08:17 PM. Reason: corrections
30 January 2005, 08:25 PM
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agreed with the gearbox wieght
mine was removed with a 2 post ramp and it was right above our heads when it came off, i honestly wasnt expecting it to be as heavy as it was
i was planning on doing mine myself, but saw sense and payed sumbody to do it (while i watched/nicked his tricks and learned how to do it myself)
pretty happy to pay sumbody to do that job again to be honest
mine was removed with a 2 post ramp and it was right above our heads when it came off, i honestly wasnt expecting it to be as heavy as it was
i was planning on doing mine myself, but saw sense and payed sumbody to do it (while i watched/nicked his tricks and learned how to do it myself)
pretty happy to pay sumbody to do that job again to be honest
30 January 2005, 09:10 PM
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Gearbox/Clutch called time just before Christmas, hoping to fit a 6 speed and may drop in a 2.5 I have laying around if the gearbox comes out quickly.
I think I might see how much a tranmission jack is as I can't be sure I'll get any help with the box.
Mark A
if the gearbox comes out quickly.I think I might see how much a tranmission jack is as I can't be sure I'll get any help with the box.
Mark A
30 January 2005, 09:38 PM
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Pretty much as graham says. the 5 speed weighs about 80kgs from memory, 6 speed is 100kgs.
If you really are going to drop the 2.5 in at the same time, and put a 6 speed in. Easiest way is, remove your engine, then remove the 5 speed, put the 6 speed in, then put new engine in.
Putting a 5 speed back in on your own can be bloody awkward, especially if you dont have something like the draper jack (need to buy one
), but doing a 6 speed on your own is a whole new level.
Putting a 6 speed in, whilst engine is out, is a doddle
Steven
(done 5 speed several times, and 6 speed more times than i wish to count)
If you really are going to drop the 2.5 in at the same time, and put a 6 speed in. Easiest way is, remove your engine, then remove the 5 speed, put the 6 speed in, then put new engine in.
Putting a 5 speed back in on your own can be bloody awkward, especially if you dont have something like the draper jack (need to buy one
), but doing a 6 speed on your own is a whole new level.Putting a 6 speed in, whilst engine is out, is a doddle
Steven
(done 5 speed several times, and 6 speed more times than i wish to count)
30 January 2005, 09:42 PM
#7
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http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=16716
when you have done a few gearboxes on your garage floor, that will be the best thing you will buy for £85
dont buy this
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=17643
i broke mine 1st time i used it, POS imo
when you have done a few gearboxes on your garage floor, that will be the best thing you will buy for £85
dont buy this
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=17643
i broke mine 1st time i used it, POS imo
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30 January 2005, 10:42 PM
#13
The Draper jack is essential, and worth every penny of £85 . The trolly jack version would be so unstable!
If you are doing the motor as well, then take the engine out first then the box, so so much better, but you will still need the Draper, and, you will need to hire a hoist, and you would be wise to buy an engine stand too!
Go to the local Machine Mart.
Madness!
Or take it all to API engines and pay the bill; good value.
****ty Impreza jobs:
1 Gearbox/clutch
2 Rear diff change
3 Engine out
4 TMIC removal/Down Pipe off for the first time
5 Inlet manifold off/on
6 Putting a roll cage in.
Now, where's my old 911.....
Graham
If you are doing the motor as well, then take the engine out first then the box, so so much better, but you will still need the Draper, and, you will need to hire a hoist, and you would be wise to buy an engine stand too!
Go to the local Machine Mart.
Madness!
Or take it all to API engines and pay the bill; good value.
****ty Impreza jobs:
1 Gearbox/clutch
2 Rear diff change
3 Engine out
4 TMIC removal/Down Pipe off for the first time
5 Inlet manifold off/on
6 Putting a roll cage in.
Now, where's my old 911.....
Graham
30 January 2005, 10:54 PM
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Have the hoist & engine stand.
What I don't have at the moment is somewhere to do this, awaiting a friend's reply to use his barn and I'll buy a transmission jack.
David @ API has offered an excellent rate for the gearbox fitting but I had planned to complete a major refit of other parts as well. May still end up doing this but he's pretty booked up at the moment.
Mark A
What I don't have at the moment is somewhere to do this, awaiting a friend's reply to use his barn and I'll buy a transmission jack.
David @ API has offered an excellent rate for the gearbox fitting but I had planned to complete a major refit of other parts as well. May still end up doing this but he's pretty booked up at the moment.
Mark A
31 January 2005, 06:39 AM
#15
He is always booked up which says something.
I had to buy some commercial tall axle stands to get the car about 600mm off the deck, (from a Prodrive sale!)
The Draper stand collapses to about 200mm then the box on top. You can just slide it out through the front.
I found putting them back in harder than getting them out as clutch alignment is so critical.
Graham.
I had to buy some commercial tall axle stands to get the car about 600mm off the deck, (from a Prodrive sale!)
The Draper stand collapses to about 200mm then the box on top. You can just slide it out through the front.
I found putting them back in harder than getting them out as clutch alignment is so critical.
Graham.
31 January 2005, 08:08 AM
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Have to agree with 911. When he said gearbox gets stuck /welded on Dowels. I wouldn,t have believed how stuck it can be. As for weight of Gearbox. It is HEAVY. If your not mechanicaly minded or have never done a clutch before, pay someone to do it. Im with 911 and have scars to prove what a bitch of a job it is.
SG
SG
31 January 2005, 11:12 AM
#18
\m/ ^_^ \m/
i managed mine by myself and ended up putting loads of dust sheets etc. under the box and let it drop onto them 
and as for it getting stuck on the dowels..... 
refitting, i put the box on my chest and lifted it up
and as for it getting stuck on the dowels..... refitting, i put the box on my chest and lifted it up
31 January 2005, 12:55 PM
#19
You must be Superman...
Can't imagine not using the jack to get it there, but holding it there while the input shaft REFUSES to go into the driven plate, the drive shafts insist on falling back to jam the one side and the dust shield bends into exactly the wrong place.
I hate this job!
Mark, have we persuaded you yet?
In all fairness, it is a pain, but if you have the right conditions and the time it is simply hard detailed work with a real risk of injury.
Taking an engine box out of a 911 is a much heavier job but is so safe to do, my record is 1.5 hours to get it out and 2 1/2 back and that includes the clutch change.
Graham.
Can't imagine not using the jack to get it there, but holding it there while the input shaft REFUSES to go into the driven plate, the drive shafts insist on falling back to jam the one side and the dust shield bends into exactly the wrong place.
I hate this job!
Mark, have we persuaded you yet?
In all fairness, it is a pain, but if you have the right conditions and the time it is simply hard detailed work with a real risk of injury.
Taking an engine box out of a 911 is a much heavier job but is so safe to do, my record is 1.5 hours to get it out and 2 1/2 back and that includes the clutch change.
Graham.
31 January 2005, 01:09 PM
#20
\m/ ^_^ \m/
think i had it on jacks once it was close to being in place 
i've blocked it from memory now 
i remember taking a sledgehammer to a huge lump of wood to get it out though 
i've blocked it from memory now i remember taking a sledgehammer to a huge lump of wood to get it out though
07 February 2005, 10:40 AM
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I am now the owner of a Draper transmission jack. Good old E-*ay.
Now I just need my friend to move his classic merc out of his garage/barn and the transformation, transformation can begin.
Mark A
Now I just need my friend to move his classic merc out of his garage/barn and the transformation, transformation can begin.
Mark A
15 March 2005, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 911
Just by the starter motor location you must find a 20mm dia cover screw with a hex socket in it and unscrew/remove it.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Find a 6mm threaded bolt, about 50mm long. Screw it into the end of the clutch arm pivot shaft exposed when you removed the above cover. Pull (hard maybe) on the bolt and the lond shaft will pull through abd the clutch arm will go loose.
Mark
15 March 2005, 12:51 PM
#26
Neither.
The 20mm cover has a socket cast into it to take an allen key or a male type allen key for a socket set.
Once removed you will see nothing!
Down inside the hole is the end of the clutch release arm pivot shaft, drilled and tapped to M6.
Thread in a longish bolt, about 50mm will do, into the pin and pull the pivot shaft out. It is unusually big and long!
If it fights coming out, rattle the arm to assist/WD40.
Graham.
The 20mm cover has a socket cast into it to take an allen key or a male type allen key for a socket set.
Once removed you will see nothing!
Down inside the hole is the end of the clutch release arm pivot shaft, drilled and tapped to M6.
Thread in a longish bolt, about 50mm will do, into the pin and pull the pivot shaft out. It is unusually big and long!
If it fights coming out, rattle the arm to assist/WD40.
Graham.
15 March 2005, 10:14 PM
#29
I didn't have a transmission jack.
I didn't have tall axle stands.
I didn't have help.
But I did have an old cot mattress with a vinyl base, and I had to slide the box under the car on it, then get under the car myself, and lift box onto the jack. It was, difficult!
The moral of this story, buy some tall stands and the trans jack.
Paul
I didn't have tall axle stands.
I didn't have help.
But I did have an old cot mattress with a vinyl base, and I had to slide the box under the car on it, then get under the car myself, and lift box onto the jack. It was, difficult!
The moral of this story, buy some tall stands and the trans jack.
Paul
16 March 2005, 08:59 AM
#30
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Andy, i know, its the only picture i could find 
10mm Allen key wont always suffice. I have moved some with an allen key, some with the 10mm Allen socket just on an extension bar, some with the socket on a ratchet, and others i have struggled to move with a 18" strong bar.
Subarus are like a bag of Revels, you never know what your gonna get
Steven
10mm Allen key wont always suffice. I have moved some with an allen key, some with the 10mm Allen socket just on an extension bar, some with the socket on a ratchet, and others i have struggled to move with a 18" strong bar.
Subarus are like a bag of Revels, you never know what your gonna get
Steven