After putting up with bad judder for 3 months im going to bite the bullet and change the clutch and flywheel ive decided to do the job myself(bit strapped for cash). Ive done plenty of clutchs before (ex mechanic) but never done a 4wd scooby. Anyone go any tips/ things to look out for or common problems.
Also advice on what clutch and flywheel to use. Or is it okay to re-face the standard flywheel. Is the Standard clutch good for 300hBHP (i think not )
The car is a 97 uk turbo with tek2, panel filter & full decat
cheers for any help

 

Hi.
Done mine 5 weeks ago. U will need a jack for the front off the engine , as when gearbox is off, engine is front heavy. You will need to remove bottom ball joints to remove front drive shafts. Driveshafts are removed by knocking out roller pins. Get car off the ground on Axle stands as high as possible. Looking at top off engine, only thing off there is the is intercooler to be removed and slave cylinder and off course starter and battery connection, plus electrical plugs for reverse lights etc. When you remove the starter, theres a blank on the end of the cross shaft for the clutch arm. You need to undou that and get a bolt to screw in to withdraw the shaft. IT WONT PART UNLESS YOU REMOVE THIS SHAFT as clutch fork pivots on this inside bell housing. Suggest you drain oil out of gearbox to, We did, just incase it leaks out when you remove propshaft. Underneath its a case of Zorst centre section off, propshaft. Leave downpipe on. Gearbox is held on by 4 bolts (2 are studs at the bottom ). Suggest you undou nuts on the studs till nearly the end off studs and put another nut on and tighten to lock the nuts on . Then unscew studs out.Its alot easier with studs out, but one nearest the downpipe can be arsy. If you only can get the one out it will help you. If you can borrow a clutch alignment tool that will help to. Be warned

1, The gearbox in HEAVY. So trolley jack will help.

2, Guarantee gearbox will not want to part from Engine very easy, so patience is required.
3, Theres dowls that are on Engine and gearbox, when removed get some emmery cloth and polish them and apply copperslip to them when you go to put it back together.
4, Thrust bearing replacment is a case off , putting it on the carrier in bell housing, insert fork, and cross shaft. offer gearbox up to engine and tighten it nearly all up, say leaving 25 thou gap all around bell housing. When you have it like that, apply a sharp tap to part of fork (backwards towards the bulkhead)that sticks out of the top off the gearbox. U will hear it go click as thrust bearing engages pressure plate

IF YOUR STUCK e mail me as per my profile and ill send u my mobile number, or i can call you.

 

That's a good account of the adventure! It is a bas*ard of a job on your own, especially getting the box off those bloody dowels.....but I missed the trick with the thrust bearing fork BEFORE you put the box back on, what a fiddle that was to recover from!
You need to be VERY sure that the clip 'clicks' into place when you tap the exposed fork to engage it. A friend had his clip snap out, and it makes you cry to have to strip it all again just to snap it all back in place (his clip fell down into the clutch)

Alternative is to lay off the beer and save up for a garage to live through the hassel.
We all wish you luck!
911

 

Where u from dr jim? if your not to far away from west mids, give us a shout. Best if you have someone to help you mt8 as its a barsteward of a job on your own like 911 has said. You need to make sure that thrust bearing goes in properly. We had faulty clutch pressure plate, so we had to strip it all again.

steve

 

Sorry to 'nick' a bit of space on your thread dr jim, but you may be interested in this...
Just fitted a new AP organic clutch and early RA gearbox to my STiv3. Having problems with the pedal sometimes not fully returning, especially when I drive the car very hard. It pops back-up on it's own!
Any ideas?
911
The thought of taking the box out AGAIN is too much if there may be a simple (external) cure. Shropshire, please try to find my thread here : I need help, racing this weekend!
Sorry again to nick your thread!

 

Cheers for all the advice guys
any advice on is it okay to re-face the flywheel and what clutch to use?

 

Sounds like it could possibly be the spring return plate (Not 100% techy yet) as this is what I had. Very cheap from Subaru but unfortuntely box out again.

 

Custom: What do you mean 'spring return plate'. The clutch has 3 parts, Driven plate, cover plate and the thrust bearing. I still have my problem! Anything you think might help will be welcome!
911