Todays the Day. Clutch replacement
#1
Todays the Day. Clutch replacement
8 am this morning im doing my clutch. Dealer allows 7 hrs to do it so ive been told. Anyone done it themselves, and how long did it take you?. I have sound knowledge of replacing clutches from Cars to trucks to agriculture equipment , But never on scooby. Anyone want any pics of it being done, or requests of certain items, give us a shout. I hope to do it in a lot less then 7 hrs, fingers crossed. lol. We will see ?
#3
Just a few hints from a Scooby gearbox change virgin...
It is very straightforward, just zillions of wires/pipes to undo. Getting the pins out of the driveshaft CV /box stub shafts is hard. The box is very heavy!
My major issue was parting the box off the engine! The 2 steel dowl pins locating the box to the engine were corroded badly. Try drifting them back into the engine a mm or 2 with WD40 everywhere. This separation took me a full hour......
Reassy is ok, just lots of work underneath and on top of the car.
Lastly, to remove the box from under the car, you will need to raise the car very high indeed.
I wish you all the very best of luck for a bitch of a job!
911 engines/boxes are MUCH simpler!
Graham.
It is very straightforward, just zillions of wires/pipes to undo. Getting the pins out of the driveshaft CV /box stub shafts is hard. The box is very heavy!
My major issue was parting the box off the engine! The 2 steel dowl pins locating the box to the engine were corroded badly. Try drifting them back into the engine a mm or 2 with WD40 everywhere. This separation took me a full hour......
Reassy is ok, just lots of work underneath and on top of the car.
Lastly, to remove the box from under the car, you will need to raise the car very high indeed.
I wish you all the very best of luck for a bitch of a job!
911 engines/boxes are MUCH simpler!
Graham.
#4
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I have an old thread around here somewhere..
Found the 22B one here
Also lots of pictures at my website
Took me about 15hours spread across a weekend but I had never done a clutch before and changed the spigot bearing and rear crank seal at the same time due to the mileage on the car.
Good luck
JGM
Found the 22B one here
Also lots of pictures at my website
Took me about 15hours spread across a weekend but I had never done a clutch before and changed the spigot bearing and rear crank seal at the same time due to the mileage on the car.
Good luck
JGM
#5
The Clutch change from yesterday cough , cough
Right i started this post. So off i went in good cheer.
1, Intercooler off . no problem
2, Exhaust off . No problem.
3, Suspension bottom joints. no problem.
4, Drive shafts off . no problem.
5, Bolts/nuts etc off bell housing . No problem.
6, Got car on Ramps /axle stands . 3ft off ground. No problem.
7, Gear box off , DON,T THINK SO ! FECKIN GREAT BIG PROBLEM ..
8, Anyone who has done this will know about the 2 studs at bottom of the Engine that hold gear box on . The one nearest to Down pipe. ie off side. To say it was corroded was an understatement. Steel and alloy do not get on together. Anyway to cut along story short, have finished up having to get taps ansd dies out and re thread a hole to take a stud as the stud had sheered off . And using a Blacksmith i know to turn me a bolt down to to go through gear box holes. The job itself ,would have been easy if this hadn,t happened. if it had been a normal car with lots of bolts holding gear box/Engine together i may have left it out. Subarus only have 4 bolts , so it had to be in , otherwise under load /torque it may have twisted it slightly. thus reducing the clutch life..
Where am i at present ?. Well clutch is in , gearbox is back on, gear linkage, drive shafts all fitted. Have used loads of copperslip to make sure this never happens again. And looking at clutch plate it was just starting to polish the rivits. Hence no Flywheel damage (thank god ).
Word of advice to anyone with slipping clutch and u are going to do it yourself.
1, The Engine is Front heavy so u will need jack under it.
2, Make sure you have comprensive tool kit.
3, And a good garage to do it in, and patience.
May be i was unlucky with the 1 stud. But it could happen on yours. So prepare for the worst.
Conclusion.
Would i do it again . Yes as it was pretty straight forward realy all things considered. Except for the feckin Stud. At least it will be right for the longeaton meet.
Steve
.
1, Intercooler off . no problem
2, Exhaust off . No problem.
3, Suspension bottom joints. no problem.
4, Drive shafts off . no problem.
5, Bolts/nuts etc off bell housing . No problem.
6, Got car on Ramps /axle stands . 3ft off ground. No problem.
7, Gear box off , DON,T THINK SO ! FECKIN GREAT BIG PROBLEM ..
8, Anyone who has done this will know about the 2 studs at bottom of the Engine that hold gear box on . The one nearest to Down pipe. ie off side. To say it was corroded was an understatement. Steel and alloy do not get on together. Anyway to cut along story short, have finished up having to get taps ansd dies out and re thread a hole to take a stud as the stud had sheered off . And using a Blacksmith i know to turn me a bolt down to to go through gear box holes. The job itself ,would have been easy if this hadn,t happened. if it had been a normal car with lots of bolts holding gear box/Engine together i may have left it out. Subarus only have 4 bolts , so it had to be in , otherwise under load /torque it may have twisted it slightly. thus reducing the clutch life..
Where am i at present ?. Well clutch is in , gearbox is back on, gear linkage, drive shafts all fitted. Have used loads of copperslip to make sure this never happens again. And looking at clutch plate it was just starting to polish the rivits. Hence no Flywheel damage (thank god ).
Word of advice to anyone with slipping clutch and u are going to do it yourself.
1, The Engine is Front heavy so u will need jack under it.
2, Make sure you have comprensive tool kit.
3, And a good garage to do it in, and patience.
May be i was unlucky with the 1 stud. But it could happen on yours. So prepare for the worst.
Conclusion.
Would i do it again . Yes as it was pretty straight forward realy all things considered. Except for the feckin Stud. At least it will be right for the longeaton meet.
Steve
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Steve,
1, Intercooler off . no problem
2, Exhaust off . No problem.
3, Suspension bottom joints. no problem.
4, Drive shafts off . no problem.
5, Bolts/nuts etc off bell housing . No problem.
6, Got car on Ramps /axle stands . 3ft off ground. No problem.
7, Gear box off , DON,T THINK SO ! FECKIN GREAT BIG PROBLEM ..
You don´t have to do number 3,as the driveshaft can come of without this
Skassa
1, Intercooler off . no problem
2, Exhaust off . No problem.
3, Suspension bottom joints. no problem.
4, Drive shafts off . no problem.
5, Bolts/nuts etc off bell housing . No problem.
6, Got car on Ramps /axle stands . 3ft off ground. No problem.
7, Gear box off , DON,T THINK SO ! FECKIN GREAT BIG PROBLEM ..
You don´t have to do number 3,as the driveshaft can come of without this
Skassa
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Steve you're lucky, normally the stud on the turbo downpipe is what gives me a headache. Cut to bolt and shear the studs on the turbo and you'll end up going up to Colin's for him to get it out.
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#9
hehe just done this.......
Someone forgot to mension the clutch release mechanisum....(dunno if its only on sti's)
gearbox split from engine fine until i realised the clutch release mechanisum was still attached lol luckly i didn't damage it...
Someone forgot to mension the clutch release mechanisum....(dunno if its only on sti's)
gearbox split from engine fine until i realised the clutch release mechanisum was still attached lol luckly i didn't damage it...
#10
Ha!
Told you so.....
Getting the box off is soooooooooooo bloody frustrating!
My 911 is exactly the same design, 4 bolts two studs and no probs. no bloody turbo either...which is why i kept it and have a tweeked Sti!
Anyway, doing the kitchen is yet another level of frustration....
911
Told you so.....
Getting the box off is soooooooooooo bloody frustrating!
My 911 is exactly the same design, 4 bolts two studs and no probs. no bloody turbo either...which is why i kept it and have a tweeked Sti!
Anyway, doing the kitchen is yet another level of frustration....
911
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Originally Posted by Denmark
You don´t have to do number 3,as the driveshaft can come of without this
Skassa
Skassa
Andrew...
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Yep,
I have always done it on ramps,as i dont have a "lift" yet.......
The great thing is that the car will not need to have the wheel aligment done again.
Skassa
I have always done it on ramps,as i dont have a "lift" yet.......
The great thing is that the car will not need to have the wheel aligment done again.
Skassa
Last edited by Denmark; 13 March 2004 at 10:00 PM.
#15
No Bottom joint removal, HOW ??
I tried everything not to have to remove bottom joints for easy removal of driveshafts after seeing your post on here Denmark. Love to know how you do it? Because there was no way around it on my car. And i mean i tried everything. Still finished up having to do it. Please explain how ?
#16
hmm, I was told I was lucky.
When removing engine, we jacked it up, rocked it a bit and it was off. We didn't really mention it much so as not to tempt fate.
The moral of this story, is a little leaking oil is a good thing.
Paul
When removing engine, we jacked it up, rocked it a bit and it was off. We didn't really mention it much so as not to tempt fate.
The moral of this story, is a little leaking oil is a good thing.
Paul
#17
I shook, and I shook it as hard as anyone could and my box would not come off. I polished the 2 dowl pins to make sure next time (god forbid) it comes off easy.
I read some here that you can (just) get away with the d/shafts and the suspension if you are the one in a 1,000,000 with a wide suspension cross member!
I also drowned my box/engine/dowels with WD40, before and during, but the galvanic corrosion was too much....
Hope a 6 speed goes on better. The box jacks you can buy are great if you are on your own doing the job.
911
I read some here that you can (just) get away with the d/shafts and the suspension if you are the one in a 1,000,000 with a wide suspension cross member!
I also drowned my box/engine/dowels with WD40, before and during, but the galvanic corrosion was too much....
Hope a 6 speed goes on better. The box jacks you can buy are great if you are on your own doing the job.
911
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Originally Posted by Shropshire-Guy
I tried everything not to have to remove bottom joints for easy removal of driveshafts after seeing your post on here Denmark. Love to know how you do it? Because there was no way around it on my car. And i mean i tried everything. Still finished up having to do it. Please explain how ?
Sorry,it´s like Paul says,you have to raise the engine so that the wheels are of the ground,to make the driveshaft fall down a bit,then they will come off with the wiggle
Skassa
Last edited by Denmark; 14 March 2004 at 07:41 PM.
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