Boost easing off under load
Hi Folks,
I have recently had a full de-cat and custom Ecutek re-map done at T.S.L on my My00. I have noticed that it seems to be using rather a lot of fuel, it is struggling to get 200 miles on a tank, i used to easily get over 300 as standard. Now i know i have more power now but this seems a little exsesive to me as i thought re-maps and de-cats helped the engine alittle.
The more serious thing i am worried about though is i was pushing it quite hard for the first time the other night since the re-map, and when i was in 5th gear at 100mph+ when i floored it, it would accelerate to full boost 1.3bar and then ease 0f for a split second to about 0.6bar then go back to full boost then the same again on off on off as i was accelerating though 5th gear. There was no problems through the other gears at all.
Is it possible i may need a uprated fuel pump to solve this problem or is it possible my re-map wasn't the best? as i can't understand why fuel economy has gone through the floor.
Thanks for any help.
James.
I have recently had a full de-cat and custom Ecutek re-map done at T.S.L on my My00. I have noticed that it seems to be using rather a lot of fuel, it is struggling to get 200 miles on a tank, i used to easily get over 300 as standard. Now i know i have more power now but this seems a little exsesive to me as i thought re-maps and de-cats helped the engine alittle.
The more serious thing i am worried about though is i was pushing it quite hard for the first time the other night since the re-map, and when i was in 5th gear at 100mph+ when i floored it, it would accelerate to full boost 1.3bar and then ease 0f for a split second to about 0.6bar then go back to full boost then the same again on off on off as i was accelerating though 5th gear. There was no problems through the other gears at all.
Is it possible i may need a uprated fuel pump to solve this problem or is it possible my re-map wasn't the best? as i can't understand why fuel economy has gone through the floor.
Thanks for any help.
James.
this sounds similar to the problem I had with mine although I also felt it in 3rd and 4th but not as severe as in 5th, I found it to be the wastegate actuator contaminated with oil, a quick clean with an aeresol brake cleaner and it was fine again.
have you topped up or changed your oil recently? this is the most common reason for this happening.
Tebo
http://www.tebo.dsl.pipex.com
have you topped up or changed your oil recently? this is the most common reason for this happening.
Tebo
http://www.tebo.dsl.pipex.com
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Mark,
Thanks for the reply, but that isn't a characteristic of the MAF gone, just had it replaced recently anyway.
My feeling at the moment with the 2 problems is that it wasn't a good map, as i have been slightly dissapointed with mine from the word go and everyone else on here raves about Ecutek re-maps. I may get onto Ecutek direct as my next port of call.
James.
Thanks for the reply, but that isn't a characteristic of the MAF gone, just had it replaced recently anyway.
My feeling at the moment with the 2 problems is that it wasn't a good map, as i have been slightly dissapointed with mine from the word go and everyone else on here raves about Ecutek re-maps. I may get onto Ecutek direct as my next port of call.
James.
Sounds like too high a wastegate duty cycle. The JECS control of the 2 port solenoid is not that good, and fixing this will see worse response in the lower gears.
Cheap fix is to fit a Dawes, more expensive one is to fit a 3 port solenoid and get the ECU remapped. Interestingly, the same 2 port solenoid works well in the DENSO ecu'ed cars, pointing to poor control/feedback systems on the JECS.
Richard
Edited to add: is the excessive consumption not just down to you hooning it more since the remap?
If not, I'd suspect lambda sensor under-reading causing over rich closed loop fuelling (note: this does not affect 'on boost' fuelling, which is open loop and reading values direct from the maps)
Cheap fix is to fit a Dawes, more expensive one is to fit a 3 port solenoid and get the ECU remapped. Interestingly, the same 2 port solenoid works well in the DENSO ecu'ed cars, pointing to poor control/feedback systems on the JECS.
Richard
Edited to add: is the excessive consumption not just down to you hooning it more since the remap?
If not, I'd suspect lambda sensor under-reading causing over rich closed loop fuelling (note: this does not affect 'on boost' fuelling, which is open loop and reading values direct from the maps)
Last edited by dowser; Feb 25, 2004 at 10:23 PM.
Hi Richard,
Once again thanks for the reply, but i have just had a full custom tek re-map 1 month ago, so a dawes is out of the question and a re-map of the ecu as iv'e just had it.
Once again thanks for the reply, but i have just had a full custom tek re-map 1 month ago, so a dawes is out of the question and a re-map of the ecu as iv'e just had it.
Then take it back to your mapper to redo boost control maps, but expect to see response a little slugged in the lower gears. I confess to only doing JECS remaps on cars with either a 3 port or aftermarket boost control nowadays.
There is a custom rom file around which offers per gear compensation, but it's 'clutch shredder' name is accurate, and it may as well be renamed 'gearbox killer' once you've replaced your clutch with a stronger item
Good luck, Richard
There is a custom rom file around which offers per gear compensation, but it's 'clutch shredder' name is accurate, and it may as well be renamed 'gearbox killer' once you've replaced your clutch with a stronger item

Good luck, Richard
mines being doing the same (MY01 WRX) but only in 5th at over 80 mph, so today I cleaned out the boost solenoid with brake cleaner and it seems to have solved it, but time will tell.
BTW I dont have an EcuTek map
Phil
BTW I dont have an EcuTek map
Phil
Last edited by MadGrip; Feb 26, 2004 at 11:33 PM.
I've read many times about the old brake cleaner on the wastegate solenoid trick, but when I poke around under the bonnet near the turbo I just can't find anything that looks like a solenoid.
Can anyone help?
Can anyone help?
I agree I have a wrx, and after my ecu tek, my fuel went to pot.... but why would you think u need a new fuel pump
if I don't hit boost ever, it is better than before but not much
200 mile per tank don't seem that bad to me.. went for a blast round the twisties the other day and emptied a full tank, but it was worth it
If you still have a problem go back to TSL, they might be a bit hefty on the price but their aftersales is second to none, Im sure they would gladly take a look
if I don't hit boost ever, it is better than before but not much
200 mile per tank don't seem that bad to me.. went for a blast round the twisties the other day and emptied a full tank, but it was worth it

If you still have a problem go back to TSL, they might be a bit hefty on the price but their aftersales is second to none, Im sure they would gladly take a look
Last edited by WRX_Rich; Feb 26, 2004 at 10:30 PM.
Agree with Richard, excessive maximum duty cycle in the map for the cold weather in top gear when driving hard and/or contaminated or faulty boost control pipework.
A Dawes would be a good move as long as you run at safe boost levels it is mapped for - I have many boost control options available to me but still use this as I like it the most.
You can also using the underdash connectors get the ECU to report to you whether it is running closed loop or not. If you connect the green connectors together and then run the car it should give a lambda sensor code (32) until it has warmed up and can run closed loop off the lambda sensor. At least I think this is the order it works from the times I've left the green connectors plugged in IIRC, although for diagnostics I usually just plug the laptop in and forget all the trickery you can do with the coloured plugs.
A Dawes would be a good move as long as you run at safe boost levels it is mapped for - I have many boost control options available to me but still use this as I like it the most.
You can also using the underdash connectors get the ECU to report to you whether it is running closed loop or not. If you connect the green connectors together and then run the car it should give a lambda sensor code (32) until it has warmed up and can run closed loop off the lambda sensor. At least I think this is the order it works from the times I've left the green connectors plugged in IIRC, although for diagnostics I usually just plug the laptop in and forget all the trickery you can do with the coloured plugs.
Last edited by MadGrip; Feb 26, 2004 at 11:32 PM.
The reason i thought it might be the pump was because of the boost easing off i.e possibly not getting enough fuel,
Thomo, if you read the original post properly you contribution wouldn't make much sense mate, that is why i asked for sensible suggestions not sarcasism.
Thomo, if you read the original post properly you contribution wouldn't make much sense mate, that is why i asked for sensible suggestions not sarcasism.
Originally Posted by scoobyfella
Any more sensible ideas folks, my last tank has just returned only 21mpg
not to good again.
not to good again.can't comment on your problems but my MPG has stayed about the same (if not slightly better) since the remap, quite impressive seeeing the power increase!
hope you get it sorted.
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