StephenDone

Shortly after my last service, I noticed a rather nasty new feature of my car. Don't know whether this was caused by the service, or just co-incidence...

If I come up to a junction, stop, and put the car in first gear, and pull away left, fairly sharpish, I get a nasty scraping/vibration feeling through the steering wheel. It can just be heard by others in the car, but is far more apparent to the driver, due to the vibration through the steering wheel.

This only happens when pulling away to the left. Turning right makes no noise at all. Turning left in other gears also makes no noise.

Easing off the power makes the problem cease, as does straightening up the car.

This is entirely repeatable and not an intermittent thing.

To me it seems to be a combination of tight left turn, high torque applied to the wheels. Or perhaps it's not the torque, but the greater tilting of the car as it takes the bend in a low gear.

Does anyone know what this might be ?

Perhaps my front driver side wheel is scraping the arch. But I wonder why it has suddenly started ? Do they have to remove the inner plastic wheel arch when doing a 30,000 mile service in order to check the CV joints ? Maybe it hasn't gone back on right.

I have standard 16inch wheels with 205/50 Goodyear Eagle F-1 tyres, btw.

Thanks for your help

Steve

Moz

could be a stone caught between the brake disc and the backing plate, I`d check your wheel nuts too in case the wheel and brake disc are kicking over under load.

StephenDone

Thanks Moz,

I'll check when the weather clears a bit!

Steve

GrahamF

Is the noise constant, or a bit like a machine gun? The drive shaft constant velocity joint (the joint in the hub) will make a machine gun noise under the conditions you describe if it is low/out of grease. Is there signs of grease spinning out of the joint roound the back of the caliper?

graham

StephenDone

The vibration through the steering wheel feels like you are dragging a paving slab across concrete. It's pretty constant, and about as pleasant as running your fingers down a blackboard.

I'll get the wheel off tomorrow and have a look.

Cheers

Steve

IggDawg

Its weird that it only happens in first gear, but I'd give your CV joint a once-over. not that subarus ever throw their CVs (cough cough), but its worth giving a good look at the boot. If not that, perhaps its a weird sort of wheel bearing problem. It could even be a differential thing. Still, being the proud past owner of several hunks of detroit iron as well as a few older scoobys, such manifestations immediately prompt my "CV joint red flag."

StephenDone

Ok, I've had the wheel off.

No stones trapped anywhere, and there's no spray of grease either. All the boots seem in good nick too.

Wheel nuts were nice 'n tight too.

Took it out for another spin, and the noise is still there.

>Its weird that it only happens in first gear
>
It may be that I can only get enough g-force in first gear. I don't think it's gear box related.

The vibration through the wheel is very pronounced. It feels like a scraping, but I've checked the inside of the arch for scuffs.

I think I know what you mean by machine gun fire - sort of low frequency pulsating feeling. It's not like that, it's more of a scrape or much higher frequency buzzing.

Any further ideas ?

I'd prefer to find it myself, in case it was something the dealer did - that way I can get them to fix it without question.

I'm going to try to make it to the Bracknell meet tonight, in case any of you guys will be there.

Cheers

Steve

TBO-Sy

I have exactly the same problem on a MY99 purchased about a month ago. Happens at takeoff on full lock to the left. Again Its just had a service at 27k.

Help and advise much appreciated.

StephenDone

Bulls-eye...Great - I'm not alone !

TBO: What county are _you_ in ?
I'm Berkshire

We could compare vibes.

Steve

StephenDone

Another thought...

At full lock, the difference between wheel speeds on the ground is the most. Also, when 'booting' it this requires a lot of torque for the acceleration.

I wonder what is the average mileage at which the clutch needs changing. Could the clutch be slipping ? I'm afraid I don't know what it would sound like...anyone ?

TBO: Do you have any mods on your car ?

Steve

TBO-Sy

No mods at all, car has standard everything, as far as I'm aware!

As for location, Bargain!!, I'm in Berkshire also.

TBO-Sy

StephenDone

There's a meet tonight at the Crooked Billet nr. Bracknell at 7.15 tonight. Make it if you can.

Here's the thread...

TBO-Sy

Sweet!

Cheers, I'll do my best to make it, pretty sure I should be there though!


TBO-Sy

scoobyboy

is the disc touching the backplate anywhere?

StephenDone

Nope. The brake disc is well clear of the back plate.

Steve

StephenDone

I have the solution !!!

Mervyn from Power Engineering found this one - he's seen it once before about a year ago...

The rod from the steering wheel to the rack & pinion (sorry don't know the techie term) is in several pieces. One join is just behind the turbo, and a bolt protrudes from the join.

On a left hand turn, the bolt point to the left. Accelerating hard, causes the engine to twist to the right. The result of this is that my turbo down pipe comes into contact with the steering column/rod/thing.

It wasn't a rotating buzzing I was feeling, but the vibration of the engine directly connected to my steering wheel.

Solution: File off the corner of the bolt so it doesn't protrude. Or get your engine mounts replaced if they're knackered. Or put a small but deliberate dent in your down pipe.

I think I'll go for the bolt option.

I don't know if this is the same problem that TBO has, since mine is due to the increased size of my downpipe, whilst his is standard. Maybe his mounts wobble more than mine.

Cheers

Steve

mikeesingh

iTrader: (3)

stephen,
ive also got the same problem with my MY99 but when ever i go show someone it never happens.
ive got the same downpipe as you, let me know if you sort your problem out so i can get mine done.

mikee

RON

Mikee
Your car might not be doing it due to weight in the car, the steering rod is fixed to the wheel, and therefore it move when more weight is put in the car!
Ron.

StephenDone

PE have painted the bolt that we think is causing the vibration. After a few vibration incidents, I'll check the paint and see if it has been rubbed off - this'll prove the point before I go changing things.

As I said, the fix depends on your situation, but in my case, it'll either be file the bolt or dent the exhaust, since my engine mounts are ok.

Cheers

Steve

DT

Got the same problem on my MY01. On Thursday had a full SS system fitted Up pipe, DP, centre & BB. The Steering linkage is fouling the exhaust DP on LH tutns under power.

Due to problems fitting they undid the engine mounts, so whether its not gone back properly or whether the DP/heatshield needs a small mod/bash I need to investigate.

StephenDone

I think this now ought to go in the FAQ.

What do you think ?

Steve

StephenDone

Hi Pete,

I have a twin dump pipe.

>There is over 40mm clearance..
>
Have you had the bonnet up when hoofing round a left hand bend in 1st gear ? Apparently, the engine will twist in this direction. Also, when you turn the wheel, the bolt on the steering linkage turns towards the down pipe.

The way to prove it is to put some paint, or a lump of blue tack on the bolt, and see if it's still there after an 'incident'.

Mervyn from PE has seen this once before too. Maybe you need the combination of loose engine mountings too and extra lwo end torque e.g. 261 lbft.

We really shouldn't go modifying these things - they're perfectly good to begin with <cue barrage of abuse> :-)

Cheers

Steve

Pete Croney

I can see that things would be very close with a twin dump and there is a fair amount of engine movement, under full load.

It would seem this movement was overlooked in the design of your downpipe.

DT

[sounds like a good idea to me. when was it last updated?

StephenDone

Sent to faq@sidc.co.uk...

Subject: New FAQ Item

Please add information on the following scoobynet thread to the FAQ.
This problem has now been suffered by several members.

Pete Croney

I hadn't read this thread until Stephen mailed the faq team (of which I am a member).

I've looked at both 99 and 01 cars, fitted with Scoobysport downpipes. There is over 40mm clearance between the UJ on the steering column and the downpipe. This is only about 5mm less than the standard downpipe.

DT, if you have a noisesince our work please mail me and advise when we can check this for you.

Stephen, what downpipe do you use? Is it a twin dump? The wastegate pipe from a twin dump would have to go in the 40mm gap and this would make things very cramped. The universal joint on the rack would also get very hot, if an exhaust part was this close to it.

StephenDone

DT has a ScoobySport one. I'll be interested to hear the diagnosis on his too.

Cheers

Steve

Pete Croney

Yes, I've asked him to mail me, as it is miles away from the column, so I want to see it.

IggDawg

Score one for us americans and our crazy "left hand driver" ideas =). don't need to worry about that with the steering column on the other side. Of course this leaves me with my sword wielding hand occupied as I drive...

-IggDawg

KevinH

I had been hearing noises on left turns for the last couple of weeks, so I've been following this thread with interest.

After the suggestion that it could be the steering column contacting the downpipe. I realised that the noises on my car had started soon after I had the ScoobyMania downpipe fitted. So I popped the bonnet to take a look. I couldn't see how the steering could contact the downpipe as there is loads of space, but feeling around under the turbo something moved. It turned out to be the lower section of the heat shield ( the upper part was removed with the old downpipe ). This was quite loose and with few minutes fiddling I removed it completely.

The noise has now gone. So I guess the lower heatshield has been sitting there under the turbo and sliding across to hit the steering column on left turns.