Link ECU - a few last irritating features...
#1
Hiya fellow scoobynetters!
I've noticed a couple of odd "features" of the Link ECU in my car (and a friends).
If you're around the revs when the turbo starts to kick in, especially in a higher gear (let's say naughty speeds in 5th gear), and comes off the throttle sharpish there's quit a jolt, almost as if power comes on and off for a split second after the throttle is released.
Try it..get it boosting in 5th and lift off quickly. Very strange...
The next issue is hot start...major pain, sort of. You'll have to blip the throttle for about 10 seconds before the idle stables, almost as if it'd need a wee bit of enrichment.
Cold start is never a problem, neither is idle itself, and if I try to start immediately after shutting down it comes to life without any problems at all. it's just when it's been allowed to cool down a little bit.
Stepper motor (idle speed control)....next issue...since it doesn't let the ECU know where it's at, it can cause some grief.
An example:
You stall it when it's cold...start it again, and the ECU thinks that the ISC is at normal set value and adds a wee bit for the cold start...wrong, it's actually still where it was before you stalled it -> we're talking 1500 rpm idle.
The only remedy to this is to let it tick it's way down, and settle at around set idle, and shut it down, and start it up again.
Major pain.
Any ideas?
/J
I've noticed a couple of odd "features" of the Link ECU in my car (and a friends).
If you're around the revs when the turbo starts to kick in, especially in a higher gear (let's say naughty speeds in 5th gear), and comes off the throttle sharpish there's quit a jolt, almost as if power comes on and off for a split second after the throttle is released.
Try it..get it boosting in 5th and lift off quickly. Very strange...
The next issue is hot start...major pain, sort of. You'll have to blip the throttle for about 10 seconds before the idle stables, almost as if it'd need a wee bit of enrichment.
Cold start is never a problem, neither is idle itself, and if I try to start immediately after shutting down it comes to life without any problems at all. it's just when it's been allowed to cool down a little bit.
Stepper motor (idle speed control)....next issue...since it doesn't let the ECU know where it's at, it can cause some grief.
An example:
You stall it when it's cold...start it again, and the ECU thinks that the ISC is at normal set value and adds a wee bit for the cold start...wrong, it's actually still where it was before you stalled it -> we're talking 1500 rpm idle.
The only remedy to this is to let it tick it's way down, and settle at around set idle, and shut it down, and start it up again.
Major pain.
Any ideas?
/J
#2
All of the 'problems' you describe can be resolved.
What MY car do you have and what is the serial letter of your Link Chip.
The infamous Link 'Judder' (too much Metz) can be pretty much mapped out.
Trout
What MY car do you have and what is the serial letter of your Link Chip.
The infamous Link 'Judder' (too much Metz) can be pretty much mapped out.
Trout
#3
I'd like to believe that Trout.
I don't know which model of the chip I've got, I kow it's the last of the old 8 row chips, as I bought it just before Link released the PC Link one. Basically it's the new one that's got the feature to set ISC, and overrun vacuum at a desired value.
The car is an MY00 euro spec scoob.
The ISC has been played with (alot) and I seriously doubt that that one can be sorted (it's no biggie as long as you don't stall it while it's cold)...the judder would be sweet do get rid of, as well as the semi-hot-start.
Cheers
/J
[This message has been edited by SecretAgentMan (edited 05 September 2001).]
I don't know which model of the chip I've got, I kow it's the last of the old 8 row chips, as I bought it just before Link released the PC Link one. Basically it's the new one that's got the feature to set ISC, and overrun vacuum at a desired value.
The car is an MY00 euro spec scoob.
The ISC has been played with (alot) and I seriously doubt that that one can be sorted (it's no biggie as long as you don't stall it while it's cold)...the judder would be sweet do get rid of, as well as the semi-hot-start.
Cheers
/J
[This message has been edited by SecretAgentMan (edited 05 September 2001).]
#4
hi jerry
i have to agree with DT here. most of the problems you have mentioned i don't suffer from at all. the first one is deffinitely a fueling thing.
the second one on the list i get sometimes, but it is never that pronuounced to bother me.
as for anything else, the chip you have i am still running although i have had the new 10 row pc link chip setting beside me for 3 weeks now. i have not even tried to install it yet as the last chip is great. i wil get the new pc link installed probably over this week end or the next one though .
i am still waiting for that email though mate
i have to agree with DT here. most of the problems you have mentioned i don't suffer from at all. the first one is deffinitely a fueling thing.
the second one on the list i get sometimes, but it is never that pronuounced to bother me.
as for anything else, the chip you have i am still running although i have had the new 10 row pc link chip setting beside me for 3 weeks now. i have not even tried to install it yet as the last chip is great. i wil get the new pc link installed probably over this week end or the next one though .
i am still waiting for that email though mate
#7
Sam,
you got me - I have had a K, N and now Q chip in my MY99 Link.
What the hell is a 'Y' chip?
BTW the 10 row chip is only for the MY99/00 Possum Link ECU and is a straight plug-in.
If you need PC LINK/10-row capability in an earlier car the only way forward would be the Link Plus and it probably won't be worth the hassle of Loom Conversion and the more complex mapping process (i.e. adapting a generic ECU to be Scoob specific).
MYWRX01 is a ten row PC LINK board.
Cheers,
Trout
you got me - I have had a K, N and now Q chip in my MY99 Link.
What the hell is a 'Y' chip?
BTW the 10 row chip is only for the MY99/00 Possum Link ECU and is a straight plug-in.
If you need PC LINK/10-row capability in an earlier car the only way forward would be the Link Plus and it probably won't be worth the hassle of Loom Conversion and the more complex mapping process (i.e. adapting a generic ECU to be Scoob specific).
MYWRX01 is a ten row PC LINK board.
Cheers,
Trout
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#9
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IMHO - get a superchip instead lads, none of these niggly problems that you are having with the Link
sorry couldn't resist that one
shunty
[This message has been edited by shunty (edited 06 September 2001).]
sorry couldn't resist that one
shunty
[This message has been edited by shunty (edited 06 September 2001).]
#13
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hey Trout- I had been following that thread as it happens. So I take it I might have all these problems to come yet
I'll enjoy it while it lasts
shunty (aka shunter)
I'll enjoy it while it lasts
shunty (aka shunter)
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