Neil F

Just thinking ahead, not urgent at the moment.
Any experiences/advice/procedures appreciated.

Neil.

David_Wallis

Just doing one on a 94 5 dr uk turbo...

In my garage at home.... on axle stands... would never consider doing again... until I break my gearbox!....

No seriously... If you do it yourself just get the car somewhere flat, dry warm and get it as high as you can.. safely... It has taken a while as normally I buy a erm Haynes Manual... (Well Im a Server Support Engineer not a mechanic.. Lets see what a mechanic knows about IP Routing, NDS and Active Directory).... Even things like getting the driveshafts out of the box were awkward.. (loads of muck... and no concentration due to hangover..) At the moment my car is sat with the gearbox unbolted but I cant get the B%^$$%^d to come away from the engine... so I am finishing cutting off the old quarter panel and welding my new one on... should be done it a couple of weeks.. then its back to the b%$%rd clutch...

I would say though If you have the tools and you can manage without the car... two sober people could easily do it in possibly a day to a weekend...

mail me if you consider doing it and want more info or get stuck..

David

GraemeC

David,

Sounds like you may not have released the clutch forks yet, that's why you are having problems.

Remove the starter motor and the blanking plate (grommit) in the gearbox casing that is hidden behind the starter. Screw in a 10mm bolt and then pull it to release the forks.

I may have the details slightly wrong but that's the jist - someone will probably correct me!!

Have fun,
Graeme.

Scooby-Duke

Ok you guy's, I am just in the process of changing mine. At least the g/box is out and I am ready to put a new clutch assembly in. However nice young man at my local Subaru Dealer had supplied me with the wrong clutch, despite having all the details from my car, 93MY WRX 4dr, and I mean all the details.

However I am now informed by the aftersales manager. Grey imports can pose a problem marrying up correct parts as most part numbers become superceeded. The best way is obviously give them the part no's off the component parts. They can then work off them. It would appear that UK models use a conventional clutch but the more powerful WRX & STi model imports required a bigger and stronger kit! ;-)

When I have completed the job I will log it in more detail and post it, ok! If anyone wants details, please email.

David, I had all ancillary items undone in about 45 mins (incl C/Fork released) but the G/Box was stuck on the two steel dowels, it was an absolute B*****D. I should have the correct kit by Tues/Weds. Just cant wait to get it back on the road. On a ramp the job should take no more than 4hrs. I am reliably informed. Could take that to prize the box off the dowells, mine did.

Good luck, all

Dukey

David_Wallis

Cheers....


I have got the starter motor off but I havent released the clutch forks... I would go do it now... but an afternoon in the pub is sounding a lot nicer.... Incidently quarter panel is on and lines up perfect... just need to borrow a spot welder as I dont fancy using the mig on it and it can then go to be painted... (gearbox permitting!!)

I think that I have got the gearbox released off the dowels as I can pull it back about an inch.

David

David_Wallis

Gearbox is out and clutch is well fooked....

Down to the rivets...

Stinks aswell...

David

Neil F

David.

New flywheel?
(P.S. I love the running updates; it's like actually being there with you only without the grease and stink!!! )

Neil.

Jantec1

Guys

Did you have any problem getting the exhaust or drive shafts off?

I've got one to do soon so gathering info

David_Wallis

Any Problems getting the exhaust or driveshafts of?? your having a laugh right??

I assumed all driveshafts are alike... big mistake... I assumed they would be like my old 106 driveshafts.. yank them out of the box.. and watch out for the oil.. except the Shafts with the splines on are in the box... and not on the driveshaft.. So heres what I did... unbolted the trackrod ends etc.. bottom baljoint bolt... and then pulled the lower arm clear of the strut so I could move it freely... and I tried pulling the drive shaft out.... anway after laying under the car another day... I decided to wipe the driveshaft clean and I found a pin of some sort unsure what they are called... but with a long thin punch... make sure you have the right size and you wont damage it... or a suitable screw driver... (I didnt say that) and knock the pin all the way out.. the driveshaft will now fall out easily... stand back and shout you B@st@rd w@nk$r car...

Other side is the same except 2 days faster to do.

Exhaust... Knowing that exhaust bolts in manifolds are allways awkward.. I decided that if they didnt come off easy then they probably wernt going to...

We started on the first... *** Make sure you have a good 12mm or is it 13mm Spanner **** We were using snap-on flank... and strugling with another spanner over the end (you will know what I mean if you have ever done this!) Still not budging... and not wanting to risk rounding the nut or shearing the stud.. (nightmare!!) we decided to get the bottles out (Oxy + Acet.) So we started to heat it gently first... so not to do any damage.... and then heated the nut and stud till it glowed bright red.... still no luck so tried to heat it again... At this point we ran out of oxygen and it is one in the afternoon on a saturday...

Monday and Someone gets me the bottles filled... a pint sounds better as it is sunny..
Tues ... erm see above.
Wed... Start heating again... second time lucky comes of easy... knock nut off not wanting to pick it up... and realise that spanner is now quite hot.. ok very hot..

Calm down and start on next.. comes straight off... Next one starts bringing stud with it... hell with it.. good excuse for a new stud...

Now for the fun... get under the car and find that the bottom left (as you lay on your back and look up..) nut is rounded off.. we found a flat drive snap-on socket and hammered this on as best we could... limited room to say the least... even with however many extension bars and u/j's with a 1/2" drive air impact gun on.. it still wouldnt budge... and was trying its best to slip off... At this point I was getting really pi$$ed off and decided that I was going to give it a rest for a bit... walking back into the house.. I fell over the torch for my mig welder.. I was about to kick it when brainwave sets it... I found a 12 /13mm nut and wound it on the stud towards the rounded one... and laying on my back welded this to the other nut... however being that far away the weld wasnt exactly neat (but it held) and I had a blob on the other nut. 5 mins later thanks to the help of my air die grinder I had a socket on properly and the nut coming out (slowly.. With the stud... oh well at least it came out!)

And the rest is history... Oh no... Ive taken the gearbox off.. Think I have buggered the seal for the clutch as it leaked fluid.. taken the clutch off.. yet to take the flywheel off.. been quoted 25 quid to get it skimmed and balanced...

refitting is the reverse of removal?? I hope not!!

David

Scooby-Duke

Hello again chaps,

Just thought I'd let you know, picked up the correct clutch parts at lunch-time today, had the afternoon off and fitted it.

Now realise just how bad the old one felt.

David is yours a push or pull clutch? I might be able to help with part no's etc. Email me if you need any advice. Good luck.

Dukey

GraemeC

Nuts/Bolts/Studs will need either a 12mm or a 14mm socket/spanner.

You won't find 13mm on a Scoob - its an unlucky number you know!!

Simon Graham

I recently saw an old friend who's a very experienced mechanic (20+ years) and he had just tried to replace an Impreza clutch for a client and ended up calling the local dealer for lots of help. He said he'd never do another one!

Personally I'd pay someone else to it (about 3 hours labour), preferably Subaru.

I remember reading (on the BBS)that fitting the P1 something or other (bell housing) is a good idea at the same time?

David_Wallis

Havent got a clue whether it is a push or a pull... presumed they were all the same..

Dealer ordered my clutch for me before I picked the car up... All parts inc. release bearing were free... (thrown in with car..)

I might note down the part numbers when next in the garage... for future reference...

13mm Sorry thats from my Nova days when you could take a car apart with a 10mm and a 13mm socket.. (and obviously a ratchet!)

At least now I dont need all my cheap 13mm spanners anymore... I can bin these and keep my nice new ones!!

David

Shark

May have missed some bits, but for what it's worth -

The release bearing is a 'pull' type.

Get the car as high as possible, remove the exhaust then take the box out with the whole drive shaft still in the box, this will save appx £40 in gearbox oil.

If you do drain the box, make sure you fill it with Subaru oil, as it has special additives. Part No SACC3188.

David

Neil F

So come on David, what stage are we at now?