Could anybody post a step to step guide in splitting the short motor. Please

I notice there are wierd headed bolts what kind off socket or tool do you need for these?

 

You need a multi head socket instead of a six sided socket to remove the head bolts.

You can view my site where you'll find loads of pic's from when I stripped & rebuilt my engine.

 

Cheers

 

You'll also need a jackhammer. You dont know what fun and games I had with my bloody engine. Its claimed a breaker's bar, 1 20 quid impactgun from argos and 2 ratchets. Oh it also managed to split 1 22mm socket and a 14mm. Hey, at least I'm sure now that my RA was fuelling right and not detting like most people told it would judging by the pistons. Makes me wonder why I'm doing this in the first place.

 

Katana,

No offence, but you are doing something wrong if it's that bad.

paul

 

tools made by snap off?

 

Snap On use, surely?

 

Pavlo i wasnt. The engine was rebuilt already it seems. They overtorqued loads of things. I should've realised it when i changed my downpipe which was seized badly and i even tried to get a garage to use their windy gun on it to no avail. I've taken several downpipes off but this was a b*tch to do. The cambelt bolt was the one that claimed loads of victims for my car. I've got to ask Darbo where he got this car from.

[Edited by Katana - 12/26/2003 2:07:20 PM]

 

It's not just the engine! Try getting the rear diff propshaft pinion flange nut off.
1 x 200lbft torque wrench
1 x socket welded to a 3 foot bar, split in 4 places.
All my back bones, tendons and ligaments

Going to get serious with it soon.....

 

Caz, just looked at your engine site.

PLEASE can you serve all us Scooby new guys with a Manual on 'Common Jobs on an Impreza', a picture speaks a 100000000000 words.
Realy good effort, all filed away for the day 'it' gets a rebuild.
much appreciated.
Graham.

 

Agree with paul and john.. Cheap tools or not using them properly..

Were you using impact sockets if not then expect them to split.. were you gripping the nuts on the corners or on the flats..

Oh and spraying bolts with wd40.. 90% of the time will do **** all.

David

 

Not so David...

It definately helps the socket slip off the bolt/nut and bust your hands

Rob

 

You lot kill me, that is all so true!
Only thing WD40 is good for is cleaning. It used to smell nice too(?)
My mate's a Snap-on dealer, so next impact/flat socket is coming from him. All my other tools lasted 25 years until this Scooby.
Hope those short RA gears are worth it!
Thanks for the humour.I'll think of you tomorrow as I get to that bloody nut.

 

Yup cheap tools. I'm a divorced student remember? But the windy gun thing in the garage took the **** though. WD40 and Plasgas makes the garage smell bad and thats it. Oh well, i'll just experience the joys of public transport till i get my block back.

 

Spraying Nuts/bolts does help, if you let it soak for a few hours, and it does actually penetrate the threads.
Agree with 911, that the rear diff pinion bolt can be very very tight.
The 12pt 12mm bolts holding the block together can also be tight. Some 1/2 drive sockets will fit inside the block for most of the bolts, although a 3/8drive may be needed. I broke a brand new 3/8 drive 12pt 12mm Snap On socket here. It was a deep socket though.
Who cares though...no quibble lifetime warranty.

What sort of 22mm socket did you split ???? ive never broke a normal socket that big, unless it was complete and utter cheap ****e.

 

Lets see if I can find it. I'll post the piccies up some time in the morning but yeah it was the cheap stuff 1/4" drive. Funny thing is, it broke on the thread itself vertically and not in the drive.

 

1/4" drive??

Rob

My £30 Argos socket set overcome all evil Snap-On Schmap-On

Got a proper set now

 

Hey I've upgraded to a 1/2" drive now. Can we be friends?

Can't find the bloody thing. Must've lost it in one of my fits. I'll ask my mate Mark if he saw it because he was the one supervising me so I wont make any more stupid mistakes and taking shortcuts.

edit: £20 quid set from Argos rules all.

[Edited by Katana - 12/28/2003 11:56:41 AM]

 

1/4 drive 22mm.

I smell bullsh1t

Katana I forgot the student bit..

Im a bit gutted actually I had a snap on account when my mate had a garage, I used to help him at weekends and days off so used to just get stuff then and pay up front.. now he doesnt have it I havent got a snap on man to spend my cash with

Hmm.. wheres the leeds dealer..

I tried doing the rear pinion flange nut thing and thought I was going to rip the vice off the bench.. (big vice.. strong bench - Long Bar )

I was beginning to think its l/h thread or something stupid.. if not then heat is calling

 

I smell wager. If I win, I get to take your beast for a ride in Santa pod.

Joke nah honestly it was 1/4". I'm looking for it as we speak. My neighbour Mark is too lazy to look for me..

 

Right i have managed to get all the bolts out hassle free but the motor still aint separating. Have i missed something???

 

Even the hidden ones? Just keep looking because I think there's still a few 14mm hidden ones. After that a few taps and prys and it'll split easily..

 

I have got all the bolts must just need a bit of a yank then.

 

Right got it separated as far as i can. So whats next to do to get the pistons out is that all thats keeping together now i think.

 

You've got to remove the pistons first before you split the block.

 

i have it separated so far. How do i get the pistons out? Please go into detail.

 

Put it back together for a start, and secure with a few of those large block bolts.

Then right click and on THIS LINK and download the engine workshop manual.

Go and have some beers as it's 18megs.

When you're pi55ed, open up the manual, print the relavent sections if possible so you can refer to them in the garage.

-------Quick cheat guide-------

Basically you need to whip out the pistons FIRST!

Remove the core plugs with 14mm af hex drain plug, and the cover on the back of #4 held on by 2 CSK m6 screws, and the core plug behind the crank case baffle plate held on with about 10 CSK m6 screws. When you remove those M6 CSK screws just use an impact driver. Don't bother with a normal screw driver, and make sure you use a crosshead/philips bit and not a posidrive bit or you will round the screws.

Once you have all the core plugs out you should be able to see the rods through the holes. And if you get a piston next to a hole down at BDC, you will see the piston pin. Remove the circlip and depending on what pistons you have, you will need to pull out the pin with a variety of tools. An sti tends to have pins with small 7mm holes and large tapers at each end. in which case you can often use a 8mm rawlpluf (brown) and large woodscrew. The normal wrx/uk engine has a larger hole which is more like an m6 or m8 rawlBOLT size, so you can bodge something like that. Alternatively you can usually push them though using a 6mm rod about 30cm long from the opposite side. If you do that, just make sure you try rocking the crank a few degrees each way of BDC to see where the best line to the pin on the far piston is.

Once you've downloaded the manual a lot will be clear, you just need to improvise in a few areas where you're without the subaru tool.

paul

 

Bit irrellevant now, but my ex Snap-on mate came round last night with a 2 foot breakbar and 27 mm impact socket to sort out my diff's pinion nut.

Crack! off it came as if it were a 14mm nut!

John is right, Right tools and the job is done. Cost me £25 for both. Had to stand on the bench though to stop it lifting!
No nut is safe now on this bloody car.....
Grear Thread.
Happy new year! Graham.

 

Rather than removing all 4 pistons, remove two gudgeon pins and the block will seperate... You can then undo the rod bolts to release the other 2 pistons if need be.

Rob