Ok, here's one for you chaps (and chapesses!)...

When my MY99 (6000 miles, standard spec short of SS backbox + ramair. No aircon.) is 'cold' of a morning, it's idle is very ropey and I have to keep feathering the throttle to keep it running.

The problem continues for about the first 5 minutes of your journey (ie. it continues even after the engine temperature is 'warm'). If it went away as soon as the engine was warm, it wouldn't have surprised me so much, but it takes a good few extra minutes before the car finally idles correctly.

Also, coming back to the car on the evening to leave work, it's 'cold' but idles fine. It only seems to be after a good, long, overnight session in the garage that this problem shows itself!

It's going in to to the dealers next Wednesday but I thought I'd give you peeps a chance to beat them to the diagnosis, as I know how much you all love a challenge!

Cheers,
Dan

 

damp getting somewhere it shouldnt?
just a thought

 

Possibility, I suppose, although it does live overnight in a non-too-damp garage...

I think you're getting at heat absorption, which I must admit was toying at the back of my mind...

Maybe some solidified gunk is blocking up some vital hose, and it's only once the heat has soaked into it and loosened it, it fixes the problem?

Dunno...

Cheers,
Dan

 

MY99 engines should idle at 1500rpm on startup from cold and then settle at 800-850rpm when warm. I would pop it into your dealer as this is a problem. I had a problem with my MY99's Idle Contol Valve which caused my engine to idle and rev between 1000-3500rpm - very embarrassing as the problem started whilst I was queing at traffic lights. Also had to suffer the Indignity of having Scoob towed to the dealer for fixing.

I think its your Idle Control Valve. Hope this helps.

Andy.

 

Thanks Andy... sounds logical!

We will see...

Cheers,
Dan

 

I seem to have a similar problem with my 94 WRX which I have now had for a total of 3 days.

The morning after I picked it up it would not start, It wouldn't kick over at all. I now have managed to get the hang of starting it - keep the accellerator flat to the floor whilst twisting the key. This takes at least a minute with me having to keep the revs up around 4000 untill it will hold.

Obviously this is a unacceptable starting procedure and it seems to occur after as long as it has been stood for a few hours. Once it has got going it seems to be fine and revs ok and idles at around 800.

I am not very technical at all and I would appreciate some advice. The car has a Blitz exhaust and Dump valve, but I am now worried that it has been modified (badly).

 

Stef,

As I do not have a manual thanks for letting me know.

I guess if I am having to 'fool' the ECU to start the car there must be an ECU problem. I am wondering if it was run on 100 octane fuel in Japan and needs to be reprogrammed to accept the normal unleaded that it was running on when I got it.

I will get it in to the garage as soon as a i can and put my warranty into effect.

 

Richard,
You should get this sorted as 4,000rpm right after turning the key is really bad for the engine, because the oil is not at the right temperature, or evenly dispersed through the engine.

 

The manual recommends that you DO NOT touch the throttle when starting, as it apparently can fool the ECU. If this is the only way you can start it, I'd get it sorted pronto!

Stef.

 

Dan,
Did you have any luck when you took it to the dealer yesterday?

Andy.

 

Hi all,

The dealer had a hire car ready for me (which I wasn't expecting). When I expressed my surprise they were happy to have a quick look at it, and maybe resolve it while I waited. This was fine by me, so I waited half an hour, at which point it rolled out on the forecourt... with a new vacuum pipe (supposedly one had melted).

Now, obviously, it's impossible to confirm at that point whether it was fixed or not but it sounded hopefull so I returned home.

The next morning, the problem was still there... just doesn't want to idle for the first 5/10 minutes of a journey.

It's booked in again, and this time the dealer will be keeping it overnight.

Not really their fault as they were intending to keep it last time...

I will keep you posted!

Cheers,
Dan

 

This thing's getting worse :-(

It's booked in for next monday overnight, but I'm away on business for the rest of that week so I'll update you all when I return.

Yours stallingly,
Dan

 

Hi cold start problem guys,

A quick update as my car seems to have the same problem, which I have documented earlier. I have now managed to find a non damaging starting procedure that will have to do until it is left overnight on friday for some diagnosis.

The starting procedure consists of turning the key until it catches (on a cold morning this can be 10-20 secs) keep holding the key turned until revs rise a bit and then release. At this point I have to sit in the car watching the revs hold and plummet. Sometimes they fall all the way down to 500!

When revs seem to be holding around 800 - 1000 I can then move off and for the first 5 mins it feels as if the car has a manual choke and I have forgotten to pull it out.

If any one has any idea what may be causing this please illuminate me as I am trying to collate data for when I drop the car off on friday.

From my enquires I have been told that it could be the fuel pressure.

Any more ideas, please let me know,

Cheers

Richard

 

Very similar to my problem, but rather than revs dropping low, the thing completely stalls.

It's got a lot worse (something that's worrying me) but it finally goes in tomorrow night to be sorted - hopefully.

Very strange. I started wondering Lambda sensor/cat, presuming the Scooby has one?

Ah well - all will be revealed!

Cheers,
Dan

 

Result!

Temperature sensor was broken, thus the cars ecu was reading hot even after it had been stood all night and it was not doing the normal cold start procedure. Unfortunately the required part could not be sourced on a saturday so it will have to wait until next saturday to see if this is the only problem.

The only downside is that for a £25 part it takes 3 hours labour to install it at around £52 a hour.

 

Hi there,

Which temp sensor are you on about ?

Cheers,

J.

 

Update : They've tried a new ECU, a new temperature sensor, a new exhaust gas sensor (Lambda?), and it's still doing it.

Oh, how the dealer must be having fun!

Will let you know the developments....

Cheers,
Dan

[This message has been edited by brumster (edited 16-09-1999).]

 

Ok, I said I'd keep you filled in...

Problem fixed - it was the air flow meter? Or something?!

Problem solved!

Cheers,
Dan

 

Firefox,

It was a temperature sensor switch (hopefully), there may be other problems but these will only come to light once the new switch is installed.

Updates on Sunday morning after its nice and cold again. (the car that is)

Cheers

Richard

[This message has been edited by Richard Simpson (edited 16-09-1999).]

 

Hi Guys,

My final post on this subject. The Temperature Sender Switch was not working, causing the ecu to think that the car was hot all the time - fans continuously running etc. Cost of the switch about £26 and Hallmarks managed to fit it in around 2 hours so the total bill came to £131 excluding 1/2 hour labour for diagnostic services the previous week.

The car now starts like a dream and runs much better.

Now I can spend the winter preparing for track days next spring.

Yours in hibernation,

Richard