Fitting a Backbox
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From: Class record holder at Pembrey Llandow Goodwood MIRA Hethel Blyton Curborough Lydden and Snetterton
It is a very simple job
Firstly either use a ramp, axle stands or drive up a high kerb (I have used the latter method
), but never use the jack when working under your car.
Then undo and remove the 2 bolts that hold the backbox to the center section, noting where washers/spring washers are (if any). I think you need either a 12mm or 14mm spanner/socket.
Then unhook the backbox from the rubber mounts - this can be a bit of a pain, a squirt of fairy liquid helps. Unhook the one nearest the bumper first - if you leave it till last the backbox will swing down pivoting on this mount thus forcing the end of the pipe against your bumper.
Then the backbox is off, refitting is the reversal of the above, not forgetting to refit the gasket.
Hope this helps, this was for a MY95 but the same goes for your model.
Justin
[Edited by Jay m A - 11/7/2003 11:46:34 AM]
Firstly either use a ramp, axle stands or drive up a high kerb (I have used the latter method
), but never use the jack when working under your car.Then undo and remove the 2 bolts that hold the backbox to the center section, noting where washers/spring washers are (if any). I think you need either a 12mm or 14mm spanner/socket.
Then unhook the backbox from the rubber mounts - this can be a bit of a pain, a squirt of fairy liquid helps. Unhook the one nearest the bumper first - if you leave it till last the backbox will swing down pivoting on this mount thus forcing the end of the pipe against your bumper.
Then the backbox is off, refitting is the reversal of the above, not forgetting to refit the gasket.
Hope this helps, this was for a MY95 but the same goes for your model.
Justin
[Edited by Jay m A - 11/7/2003 11:46:34 AM]
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From: Behind the wheel of a Time Attack R33 GTR
Now i realise that to an expert this would seem like a 10 minute (if that) no brainer, however i have never touched a car (it is mechanical sense) before so i would appreciate some tips and general direction if you would indulge me!
I have recently aquired an STI8 rear silencer and wish to fit it to my 03 WRX, i was told by the garage that if i was fairly adept that i could fit it myself without any warranty issue from them
) so i am now turning to you lot for guidance.
What do i need, what do i need to do? is there anything i shoudl be wary of etc etc.....
Any help most greatfully received....
I have recently aquired an STI8 rear silencer and wish to fit it to my 03 WRX, i was told by the garage that if i was fairly adept that i could fit it myself without any warranty issue from them
) so i am now turning to you lot for guidance. What do i need, what do i need to do? is there anything i shoudl be wary of etc etc.....
Any help most greatfully received....
You need:
A socket set/other spanners.
A bit of elbow grease to get the rubber mounts off.
The back of the car up a bit (be careful it is properly supported before you venture underneath - cars are heavy).
Maybe a new gasket if the old one has disintegrated.
About ten minutes.
No technical expertise whatsoever (i.e. I can do this).
A socket set/other spanners.
A bit of elbow grease to get the rubber mounts off.
The back of the car up a bit (be careful it is properly supported before you venture underneath - cars are heavy).
Maybe a new gasket if the old one has disintegrated.
About ten minutes.
No technical expertise whatsoever (i.e. I can do this).
I have just done this today on an MY00. Did not know what to expect and have been dicking about for a week wondering whether to take it to a garage, borrow wheel ramps etc Anyway plunged in and it was a doddle here are my findings....
Just by placing two spare paving slabs from the back garden on top of each other on the drive and backing the nearside rear wheel up on them I had enough room for manoeuvre underneath. Obviously pulled the handbrake on pretty hard and left it in gear for safety.
I already had a 14mm socket spanner but also bought a 14 mm ring spanner for a few quid in Halfords. The bolts holding the flanges together can be reached from the side or the back of the car if your arms are as long as mine. Was pleasantly suprised how easily the bolts were to loosen off with my cheapy ratchet spanner. Once loosened I had to fiddle with the newly aquired ring spanner to hold the nut on the back of the bolt to continue without it just spinning round as the bolt turned and not going anywhere.
Of the 3 rubber hangers, 2 can be removed from the car more easily than the backbox so use that approach. The 3rd is bolted to the car so need to pop the backbox bracket out of this one in situ. The other two can be done next to release the backbox down gently on to your chest with two freed rubber hangers attached to it. None of them offered too much resistance once lubed up with some WD40. As mentioned above, do the pair together at the bumper end first so the box lowers down to the ground rather than piveting up when the hangars are removed.
Before starting I wasn't sure about the gasket between the flanges. Ended up nipping up to my Scooby dealer to pick one up from stock before starting (cost £5, part # 44022AA131) Indeed the scoobyman himself said they had a habbit of falling apart so I was glad I got it. However once the bolts were removed nothing fell out. Had a double check of the backbox and centre section ends once apart and there was no gasket there just metal on metal. Was a bit
since I had given chassis number and everything to check I was getting the right bit for the gasket. Still the part I had obtained fitted perfectly so I used it anyway when putting the new exhaust on.
Fitting as they say was simply the reverse of removal.
No finger skin was removed during the whole procedure either
Must admit the car is a low miler and regularly garaged despite being 3 years old so maybe that helped things go smoothly. There was a bit of corrosion on the bolts which may have made removal a lot harder on an older car if it was worse.
Hope this helps
Just by placing two spare paving slabs from the back garden on top of each other on the drive and backing the nearside rear wheel up on them I had enough room for manoeuvre underneath. Obviously pulled the handbrake on pretty hard and left it in gear for safety.
I already had a 14mm socket spanner but also bought a 14 mm ring spanner for a few quid in Halfords. The bolts holding the flanges together can be reached from the side or the back of the car if your arms are as long as mine. Was pleasantly suprised how easily the bolts were to loosen off with my cheapy ratchet spanner. Once loosened I had to fiddle with the newly aquired ring spanner to hold the nut on the back of the bolt to continue without it just spinning round as the bolt turned and not going anywhere.
Of the 3 rubber hangers, 2 can be removed from the car more easily than the backbox so use that approach. The 3rd is bolted to the car so need to pop the backbox bracket out of this one in situ. The other two can be done next to release the backbox down gently on to your chest with two freed rubber hangers attached to it. None of them offered too much resistance once lubed up with some WD40. As mentioned above, do the pair together at the bumper end first so the box lowers down to the ground rather than piveting up when the hangars are removed.
Before starting I wasn't sure about the gasket between the flanges. Ended up nipping up to my Scooby dealer to pick one up from stock before starting (cost £5, part # 44022AA131) Indeed the scoobyman himself said they had a habbit of falling apart so I was glad I got it. However once the bolts were removed nothing fell out. Had a double check of the backbox and centre section ends once apart and there was no gasket there just metal on metal. Was a bit
since I had given chassis number and everything to check I was getting the right bit for the gasket. Still the part I had obtained fitted perfectly so I used it anyway when putting the new exhaust on.Fitting as they say was simply the reverse of removal.
No finger skin was removed during the whole procedure either

Must admit the car is a low miler and regularly garaged despite being 3 years old so maybe that helped things go smoothly. There was a bit of corrosion on the bolts which may have made removal a lot harder on an older car if it was worse.
Hope this helps
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