both driveshafts buggered
#1
well chaps, i took my STi 5 Type R scooby into the local dealership today for a quick once over service and to see if they could locate the annoying clunking noise that i got on slow lock to lock manouvers.
i previously had an idea that it may be a problem with one of the diffs but they say no........wait for it.........
i need to replace both of my drive shafts as thay have both got abotu 4mm of play in the CV joint ! well i was gobsmacked and asked how much it would be, well for a P1 which is the closest they could quote on it was going to be 270 per side!
So as you do i called the importer and asked when they could do this on the warrenty? seems pretty 'major mechanical' to me if they both have gone! would they cover it - would they heck!
so..... 1st does this sound as out of order to you as it does me with regards to the seller?
2nd : has anyone heard of both CV's being buggered before
and 3rd : who can recommend somewhere to go to get new ones that arent going to cost me nearly £600 !
any help will be gratefully appreciated
i previously had an idea that it may be a problem with one of the diffs but they say no........wait for it.........
i need to replace both of my drive shafts as thay have both got abotu 4mm of play in the CV joint ! well i was gobsmacked and asked how much it would be, well for a P1 which is the closest they could quote on it was going to be 270 per side!
So as you do i called the importer and asked when they could do this on the warrenty? seems pretty 'major mechanical' to me if they both have gone! would they cover it - would they heck!
so..... 1st does this sound as out of order to you as it does me with regards to the seller?
2nd : has anyone heard of both CV's being buggered before
and 3rd : who can recommend somewhere to go to get new ones that arent going to cost me nearly £600 !
any help will be gratefully appreciated
#3
good point, it has a full CUSCO strut brace set up, upper, lower front and rear and CUSCO springs but they dont lower the car any considerable amount, not that could effect the cv's anyway apart from that its all standard STi kit
dave
dave
#4
dave
Sounds like you have the same as me, I am also getting a squeeking noise at speed. My car is also a STI 5. I asked GGR fore a quote and they gave me £270 + VAT. I've decided to get a used one for the moment so it was £60 + VAT & shipping. Hope it cures the problem. Mail me if you mwant to know where I when.
Paul
Sounds like you have the same as me, I am also getting a squeeking noise at speed. My car is also a STI 5. I asked GGR fore a quote and they gave me £270 + VAT. I've decided to get a used one for the moment so it was £60 + VAT & shipping. Hope it cures the problem. Mail me if you mwant to know where I when.
Paul
#5
I have the same problem on an sti5 - banging noise on going round bends - the actual cv joint will last a fair amount of time - I should know - I've been driving with it like this for 10000 miles!
Its not the drive shafts - its the actual CV joint and that can be purchased separately
The part off the sti5 is the same as the P1 (I just say its a W Reg P1 - although some (but not all) ask for Chassis numbers)
That said the CV Boot kit is about £180 (Inc Vat) from a main dealer - cant seem to get brand new anywhere else...........
Its not the drive shafts - its the actual CV joint and that can be purchased separately
The part off the sti5 is the same as the P1 (I just say its a W Reg P1 - although some (but not all) ask for Chassis numbers)
That said the CV Boot kit is about £180 (Inc Vat) from a main dealer - cant seem to get brand new anywhere else...........
#7
I would check it is the same part.
The P1 doesnt have an r180 rear diff, and therefore doesn't have the uprated thicker rear driveshafts. I would check first that it is the same part!
The P1 doesnt have an r180 rear diff, and therefore doesn't have the uprated thicker rear driveshafts. I would check first that it is the same part!
Trending Topics
#8
Just got a pair of brand new ones from Andrew Page distributors - £265 all in including £50 back on old set- so less than 1/2 subaru price.
This is for a uk 98 turbo but don't think there's a difference for sti or P1.
Regards
Mark.
This is for a uk 98 turbo but don't think there's a difference for sti or P1.
Regards
Mark.
#9
there is a difference in the parts which is where i appear to be having the most problems so far..... a few places have offered me 2nd hand units some of which stating that they are all the same and some saying that yes they are in deed different,
i have double checked against my dads uk MY00 and they have quite a size difference hence they wont be nearly as strong in the long run.
BUT ! that trader i bought my car from has come up trumps, after initially saying that this would not be covered by the warrenty as it only covered failure of parts he has had a change of heart and said that he will cover the cost of parts if i pay the 80 odd squid labour, so, pending a phone call tomorow i will have new CV joints in the near future.
pban would be very interested to hear how the work works out?
cheers all, a much happier floppy
i have double checked against my dads uk MY00 and they have quite a size difference hence they wont be nearly as strong in the long run.
BUT ! that trader i bought my car from has come up trumps, after initially saying that this would not be covered by the warrenty as it only covered failure of parts he has had a change of heart and said that he will cover the cost of parts if i pay the 80 odd squid labour, so, pending a phone call tomorow i will have new CV joints in the near future.
pban would be very interested to hear how the work works out?
cheers all, a much happier floppy
#10
b@ll@x!
I have an STi5 saloon and I have a graunching noise left turn, in reverse, lock to lock.
I thought it may be wheel arch liner rubbing but I think I was kidding myself!
double b@ll@x!
Jacko.
I have an STi5 saloon and I have a graunching noise left turn, in reverse, lock to lock.
I thought it may be wheel arch liner rubbing but I think I was kidding myself!
double b@ll@x!
Jacko.
#12
sounds that way doesnt it? just a point of interest for those of you having the same problem, take it to a reputable scooby dealership and have it diagnosed by those that know... who will tell you its an all in one unit.
then cal up a breakers, grade A etc, who will kindly inform you that they are infact seperable and can fit just the CV joint for you, keeping the driveshaft that is there, hence saving you £'s !!!
cheers all
then cal up a breakers, grade A etc, who will kindly inform you that they are infact seperable and can fit just the CV joint for you, keeping the driveshaft that is there, hence saving you £'s !!!
cheers all
#13
I have a used part c/w drive shaft, did speak to Grade A and they said they sell theirs complete with drive shaft.
Anyway had a problem with the part I was supplied so can't report that the noise is fixed as the car is still using it's original shaft and joint.
Have contacted a few companies to clear the question re separate shaft and CV joint. So far eveyone has said that you can only get them supplied together but they do separate! I only need CV joint so if some knows different and when you can get just the joint then please say.
Paul
Anyway had a problem with the part I was supplied so can't report that the noise is fixed as the car is still using it's original shaft and joint.
Have contacted a few companies to clear the question re separate shaft and CV joint. So far eveyone has said that you can only get them supplied together but they do separate! I only need CV joint so if some knows different and when you can get just the joint then please say.
Paul
#14
While we're on the subject - new driveshafts came & were wrong ones. In this ISO catalogue: turbo scoobs 95 on - 25 tooth spline thing at gearbox end (same in online catalogue & other reference material) - my car & original driveshafts 23 tooth & slightly longer shafts as per 1.6 & 1.8.
Mines a MY98 uk turbo btw.
Sent original shaft to be matched but its confused me.
Any experts know the definitive answer.
Mark.
Mines a MY98 uk turbo btw.
Sent original shaft to be matched but its confused me.
Any experts know the definitive answer.
Mark.
#15
Adam/Others
Correct for rear.. The Driveshaft problem seems to be more a front end problem.......
As far as the debate between Drive shaft and CV joint together goes - then thats tosh. Can be bought as a driveshaft at about £270 plus Vat from Subaru and as a CV Joint at something like £165 plus Vat I think - thats per side!!! - if you needed both
Of course if you can pick up the whole driveshaft at a decent price then go for this............
As far as the part numbers on the P1/STI5 go - I have confirmed that the part number for the front driveshaft/CV Joint is the same for both the import and the P1 through 'TWO' Subaru dealers. I can get hold of the part numbers if someone wants them? - Just need to call somwhere like Tileys. I dont know if theres a difference between UK/P1/STi - but i'd be amazed if there was - loads of stuff on the old shape - i.e pre bugeye seems to be interchangeable
Just didnt fancy forking out £165 plus Vat for a single CV Joint - especially given that this is about 3 times what I had to pay once for a Driveshaft on an Escort Cossie!
Anyone got phone numbers for Grade A or Andrew Page Distributors - i.e. where are they based?
Correct for rear.. The Driveshaft problem seems to be more a front end problem.......
As far as the debate between Drive shaft and CV joint together goes - then thats tosh. Can be bought as a driveshaft at about £270 plus Vat from Subaru and as a CV Joint at something like £165 plus Vat I think - thats per side!!! - if you needed both
Of course if you can pick up the whole driveshaft at a decent price then go for this............
As far as the part numbers on the P1/STI5 go - I have confirmed that the part number for the front driveshaft/CV Joint is the same for both the import and the P1 through 'TWO' Subaru dealers. I can get hold of the part numbers if someone wants them? - Just need to call somwhere like Tileys. I dont know if theres a difference between UK/P1/STi - but i'd be amazed if there was - loads of stuff on the old shape - i.e pre bugeye seems to be interchangeable
Just didnt fancy forking out £165 plus Vat for a single CV Joint - especially given that this is about 3 times what I had to pay once for a Driveshaft on an Escort Cossie!
Anyone got phone numbers for Grade A or Andrew Page Distributors - i.e. where are they based?
#17
I was going say town end...or there is a place in inverness who are abit like town end ill see if i can get there name and number...but both do drive shafts for approx £75-£80 and are specifically subaru impreza companies.
By the way think Town End rally there own subaru so should know a thing or 2...have a word with stuart he does come on here now and again.
Darren
By the way think Town End rally there own subaru so should know a thing or 2...have a word with stuart he does come on here now and again.
Darren
#19
well now........ i took the scoob to central subaru a littl eback lane place in wolverhampton which doesnt inspire great confidence on first appearance, however the gaffa andy was most helpfull immedaitely filling me with tea and showing me around his alladins cave.
anyway, the driveshafts have both been replaced and as far as i can tell from the drive home it has sorted the problem, only time will tell tho!
however there was a hell of a lot of grease all over the inner wheel and hub by the time i got home which worries me a little but the boot is intact so i think its time for the gunk to come out/>?
we will see
anyway, the driveshafts have both been replaced and as far as i can tell from the drive home it has sorted the problem, only time will tell tho!
however there was a hell of a lot of grease all over the inner wheel and hub by the time i got home which worries me a little but the boot is intact so i think its time for the gunk to come out/>?
we will see
#21
well..... the problem was soon back and took the car back to central who kindly fitted a third set of shafts for free but the problem was still there? they said "we think you need a new box central diff is nackered" so on i went.........
i then phoned stuart at town end garage for a quote on a new box and the mystery was revealed, if you have the adjustable diff on your gear box, type r or ra normally, jack up the front so both wheels are of the floor. then with the engine off in neutral spin the wheels if one goes forwards and one goes back(like any normal motor) and you have a clunk you have a problem. IF they both spin forward then you have a very expensive plated central diff ! it is supposed to clunk bang and creak and you will never get rid of it, it has been put in by STi as an upgrade !
problemo solvio happy again
many thanks to stauart at town end for all the time on the phone, help and advise !
[Edited by floppy dave - 9/19/2003 9:12:53 PM]
i then phoned stuart at town end garage for a quote on a new box and the mystery was revealed, if you have the adjustable diff on your gear box, type r or ra normally, jack up the front so both wheels are of the floor. then with the engine off in neutral spin the wheels if one goes forwards and one goes back(like any normal motor) and you have a clunk you have a problem. IF they both spin forward then you have a very expensive plated central diff ! it is supposed to clunk bang and creak and you will never get rid of it, it has been put in by STi as an upgrade !
problemo solvio happy again
many thanks to stauart at town end for all the time on the phone, help and advise !
[Edited by floppy dave - 9/19/2003 9:12:53 PM]
#22
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: where the wild roses grow
Posts: 5,122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Say what? Sounds like you've misunderstood/misquoted Stuart a bit there.
The centre diff on the Type R's isn't plated, the DCCD is an electromagnetic device, and is supposed to be left "open" during slow speed driving.
All the DCCD equipped cars make this "clunking" during slow speed manoeuvres if the thumbwheel is turned up. The noise is caused by the speed differential between the front and rear axles overcoming the magnets.
Suggest that if any Type R/RA owners are experiencing odd noises like this, you make sure the centre diff control is down (i.e. furthest away from lock) before checking anything else!
The centre diff on the Type R's isn't plated, the DCCD is an electromagnetic device, and is supposed to be left "open" during slow speed driving.
All the DCCD equipped cars make this "clunking" during slow speed manoeuvres if the thumbwheel is turned up. The noise is caused by the speed differential between the front and rear axles overcoming the magnets.
Suggest that if any Type R/RA owners are experiencing odd noises like this, you make sure the centre diff control is down (i.e. furthest away from lock) before checking anything else!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post