LSD Problem or Not?
#1
Any advice greatly appreciated:
Car: MY95 WRX
Power: Est. 280+bhp (16.42 psi boost)
Drive: Uk box & rear diff. mated to Jap engine
Susp'n: Eibach, adjustable bars f&r, anti-lift, uprated bushes & links
Tyres: Varied brands, but assume Toyo T1-S (a reasonable tyre IMO and my preferrred brand)
Issue: Wheel spin
I believe it is happening at the front of the car. Before the aforementioned mods (with the exception of the suspension), even in the wet under virtually full load from standstill, the car would launch rapidly without wheel spin.
Since the increase in power and possibly the change of gearbox and rear diff, it has been noticeable (even in the dry) that the car has to be launched with less rpm from standing.
Is this due to increased torque, the box & diff change, or do I have some other sort of LSD problem? How do my changes affect how it works? Is there anything I can do to redress this?
Cheers,
K
[Edited by K9VYN [Kevin W] - 8/8/2003 9:47:37 AM]
Car: MY95 WRX
Power: Est. 280+bhp (16.42 psi boost)
Drive: Uk box & rear diff. mated to Jap engine
Susp'n: Eibach, adjustable bars f&r, anti-lift, uprated bushes & links
Tyres: Varied brands, but assume Toyo T1-S (a reasonable tyre IMO and my preferrred brand)
Issue: Wheel spin
I believe it is happening at the front of the car. Before the aforementioned mods (with the exception of the suspension), even in the wet under virtually full load from standstill, the car would launch rapidly without wheel spin.
Since the increase in power and possibly the change of gearbox and rear diff, it has been noticeable (even in the dry) that the car has to be launched with less rpm from standing.
Is this due to increased torque, the box & diff change, or do I have some other sort of LSD problem? How do my changes affect how it works? Is there anything I can do to redress this?
Cheers,
K
[Edited by K9VYN [Kevin W] - 8/8/2003 9:47:37 AM]
#2
front diff is open, so you will tend to spin one front wheel.
quaife ATB front diff probably a nice option if you can deal with the cost of about £700 by the time it's in the box, provided you can get the box out and in yourself
Paul
quaife ATB front diff probably a nice option if you can deal with the cost of about £700 by the time it's in the box, provided you can get the box out and in yourself
Paul
#3
Cheers Paul,
Having just forked out £2600 on the engine, its not really an option. I'll just have to apply more control over the clutch dependent on the road/weather conditions and work out the optimum rpm for launch.
Kev
Having just forked out £2600 on the engine, its not really an option. I'll just have to apply more control over the clutch dependent on the road/weather conditions and work out the optimum rpm for launch.
Kev
#5
alanjack,
it wasnt a replacement engine - there are a number of new components and i guess a fair percentage of that was for labour. unfortunately the car was returned under power and with several other issues. so i returned it for re-work and three weeks later i am still waiting for it. i anticipate its return this week, but judging by the current track record, its best not to second guess when it'll bre returned. needless to say, stern words will be had this morning.
cheers,
Kevin
it wasnt a replacement engine - there are a number of new components and i guess a fair percentage of that was for labour. unfortunately the car was returned under power and with several other issues. so i returned it for re-work and three weeks later i am still waiting for it. i anticipate its return this week, but judging by the current track record, its best not to second guess when it'll bre returned. needless to say, stern words will be had this morning.
cheers,
Kevin
#7
rally nutter,
interesting idea. presumably that would have a knock on effect on long term reliability? and, taking your experienced rallying head off for a mo, is it something you'd advise as a DIY job or would you suggest someone with good spannering experience do the job?
cheers,
Kevin
interesting idea. presumably that would have a knock on effect on long term reliability? and, taking your experienced rallying head off for a mo, is it something you'd advise as a DIY job or would you suggest someone with good spannering experience do the job?
cheers,
Kevin
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