Dead P1
#1
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Hopefully just a MAF failure.
As has been said, get a TEK3 remap. Scoobysport might be worth a visit for the damage diagnosis and remap
[Edited by Daz34 - 8/7/2003 12:17:21 AM]
As has been said, get a TEK3 remap. Scoobysport might be worth a visit for the damage diagnosis and remap
[Edited by Daz34 - 8/7/2003 12:17:21 AM]
#2
Hi all, seeking the divine knowledge of Scooby owners. On the motorway driving along, one minute with my foot on the accelerator, the next minute no power whatsoever. Pulled over, I started the car back up, the idle is very poor fluctuating between 1000rpm and 0, give the car a bit of revs and it chucks out alot of black smoke!!, the car can't even be driven more than 30mph, I've had front mouted intercooler, full Decat exhaust, HKS filter, I had a previous problem with the Maf sensor but that was sorted out, the Subaru dealer thinks it is the turbo blown without even looking at the car, the worrying thing is that I don't trust what they are saying, please help!!
#5
Sorry to say it but i think you've been misled, whoever told you that.
Those mods on a p1 without the engine re-mapped to suit them is serious danger area.
Did it make any bad noises when it went?
Wide open throttle or cruise?
Those mods on a p1 without the engine re-mapped to suit them is serious danger area.
Did it make any bad noises when it went?
Wide open throttle or cruise?
#6
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P1's with just decat's have been known to go bang, they run far too lean and det occurs. Unfortunately you have been misinformed as to the nature of a remap, it makes the modifications safer, not more on the edge. With the mods you've had, you should definately had the ECU remapped to cope.
To be honest you car was a time bomb waiting to go off.
Hopefully someone can help as to the damage done...
John Banks is an ECU remapper as is Bob Rawle
If you get your car going again please speak to one of these
BTTT from a fellow P1 owner.
To be honest you car was a time bomb waiting to go off.
Hopefully someone can help as to the damage done...
John Banks is an ECU remapper as is Bob Rawle
If you get your car going again please speak to one of these
BTTT from a fellow P1 owner.
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#9
check the obvious first :
have you checked your bov (dump vavle), mine blew off when i accelerated hard. Lost power completely, black smoke on idle etc...
irractic idling just as yours.
Tightened the bov back up this time with some stainless steel racing ones and problem went away.
HTH
have you checked your bov (dump vavle), mine blew off when i accelerated hard. Lost power completely, black smoke on idle etc...
irractic idling just as yours.
Tightened the bov back up this time with some stainless steel racing ones and problem went away.
HTH
#10
sounds like the exact same thing that happened to me last night, turned out it was the hose from the turbo to intercooler had come off, scared the **** out of me thought the engine had blown up (not had the car long so very paranoid)
#12
Hi all, thanks for the good response, the problem is stemmimg from the HKS filter (when the foam is getting wet it is sucking water through, destroying the Maf everytime) which inevitably caused the Maf to do the diving swan act!!, Going to order a new Maf sensor ASAP, still open to suggestions which filter to get, the problem I got is that I have a front mounted intercooler which goes through one of the holes in the wing which the standard airbox passes through, anyone know how to counter this problem or a VERY reliable air filter?, cheers for all of the advice.... I'll definately be speaking to the remap guys imminently
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He has a FMIC.
Safest is probably the K&N 57i but it is quite big to fit around some IC pipework.
I use an APS induction kit with APS FMIC. It gives MAF faults in the historical ECU memory, but no active faults and does not seem to consume MAF sensors.
It's biggest downside is also its biggest asset. Put on a P1 without a map and you could destroy your engine in minutes (has been done). With a map though (or a standalone ECU to get rid of the MAF sensor entirely) you actually extend the factory MAF sensor's ability well over 400 BHP if you need it.
Safest is probably the K&N 57i but it is quite big to fit around some IC pipework.
I use an APS induction kit with APS FMIC. It gives MAF faults in the historical ECU memory, but no active faults and does not seem to consume MAF sensors.
It's biggest downside is also its biggest asset. Put on a P1 without a map and you could destroy your engine in minutes (has been done). With a map though (or a standalone ECU to get rid of the MAF sensor entirely) you actually extend the factory MAF sensor's ability well over 400 BHP if you need it.
#16
Standard airbox with filter if it's the FMIC I think it is (APS?) won't actually fit - the pipework of the FMIC uses the space that the standard mess in the wing uses. May well be the case with other FMICs as well, but I don't know them
Isn't the thing to check here why water's getting into the air filter? It shouldn't do! I've got one in the wing - which is a lot lower down & open to water problems than one in the engine bay - and have never had a problem. Well, I don't think I have (no MAF!) but water shouldn't really be where the pod is anyway.
Unless you like rivers'n'stuff?
Isn't the thing to check here why water's getting into the air filter? It shouldn't do! I've got one in the wing - which is a lot lower down & open to water problems than one in the engine bay - and have never had a problem. Well, I don't think I have (no MAF!) but water shouldn't really be where the pod is anyway.
Unless you like rivers'n'stuff?
#17
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This sounds more like a hose has blown off the FMIC piping.
The black smoke indicates massive over fuelling, caused by the MAF reading lots of airflow and this air leaking out before getting to the engine, hence running very rich.
The black smoke indicates massive over fuelling, caused by the MAF reading lots of airflow and this air leaking out before getting to the engine, hence running very rich.
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