don't think i would risk it!

 

Don't do it!

Les

 

it makes a lot of sense. there are some tuners in the us that agree.

i sort of split the difference and pushed it moderately hard.

fwiw, i get very little oil in my ic.

i'll let you know in a few years when i turn over 100k mi.

jm2c
ken

 

I use this method (well not exactly this as it's hard to free rev a car with 6km on the clock!) for my car without problems so far and currently have 7000 kms. I did rev it almost free with 1st, 2nd,3rd gears but also did avoid high boost and long journeys.
I changed engine oil after 150km with mineral Motul 2000 Multigrade and again at 1500km with synthetic V300 10W/40 Chrono as the engine is ready (supposed) for normal use.
I only added 200-300 grms of oil at 1000km and this is pretty normal for a brand new engine during running in period. No oil consumption until then.
What I found is that my car drives better compared with other's 03WRX and that I have higher injector duty cycles from them.
I don't know if this is related with bedding in procedure or factory mechanical tolerances and how long will last my engine but I am overall happy with the performance.
I found also that Motul V300 (all the range) is noisier from other oils (noisy tappets and I used in my previous MY00 Aral 5W/50 > Castrol RS10W/60 > V300 15W/50 with the same effect) the first few minutes until the engine reaches normal working temp that is >70C degrees!
I know this is irrelevant with your question but I'll change back to Castrol RS exactly for the above reason as both oils are of the best in the market and keep the same oil pressure in our cars under various conditions.
JIM

 

I saw that site months ago. They say that that's for bike engines or at least NA engines. Not sure how good that would be on a turbo engine in a car. Why dont you email the guy?

 

My rebuilt engine (new crank, bearings & rings) was run in in a similar way.

Mapped for 1bar and 6000rpm at 50 miles, then oil & filter change (mineral). Oil/filter change (Motul 15w50) at circa 1000 miles and then mapped for 1.6bar and 8000rpm.

 

Hypoluxa did you check oil levels when on mineral and before oil change at 1000km?
All the people doesn't check the levels during running in period and I am pretty sure that almost all of them have some oil consumption, although some friends charge my bedding in procedure for the slight consumption!
The time will proove if the above procedure is right (hope) or not for my car. By the way why a turbo car is different from a NA regarding first few miles, the turbo itself doesn't need more than 20 "easy" kms to be ready for blast? I know this cause I changed it in my previous MY00 with a VF29 and before I asked many tuners about.
JIM

 

When your nice shiny Honda (even the CTR) rolls off the production line at Swindon, it is taken for a blast flat out in every gear round a track then parked up for shipping to dealers. I was amazed when i found out, but reading the site about sealing the rings etc makes a lot of sense now.

All the mechanics I know advise that any engine should just be driven normally, but not flat out, for 1st 1000 miles, oil changed and then whatever afterwards. The engine of course must be warmed up properly before extending it (so to speak). i took normal to mean your daily grind to work, and not hooning round a track.

All the cars i have bought have been demos(including a WRX and an STi), i cant believe any of them were run-in in the manner that most people adhere to on here, and ive never had any problems with them. Without RRing them its impossible to see whether it has more power than a carefully run in one.

 

Yes Jim, checked every 100 or so miles. Can't remember how much oil it used... maybe half a litre? I have large piston clearances and an open breather system though.

 

Having just read the artical it reminded me of a conversation I had with a guy back in the late 60's at a sprint meeting in which I was competing (yep, I am that old!) He owned a pretty new MGB (nice car back then!) and it was noticably quicker than the other B's in the class. He said the secret was in the running-in. Gentle 200 miles to knock the high spots off, change the oil then thrash the nuts off it! I guess his theory was based purely on effect, not on some theoretical concept as per this guy, some of who's theories I find arguable. For instance he shoots down the idea of "heat cycling" but in my opinion he's got that wrong! He links it to "heat treatment" what it's actually about is expansion and contraction of the components as part of the settling process. Manufacturers pay heed to this concept when they advise not to hold one speed for too long during running-in. Indeed, manufacturers of model engines (of which I've had a lot of experience)generally advise initial short runs (high speed, slightly rich settings) followed by cooling-off periods, gradually increasing the length of run and leaner mixture.
Your friendly mechanic, the guy who loads the car onto the transporter (I've heard some stories!) etc. will gladly "break-in" your new car to save you the trouble!
JohnD