Ian E

iTrader: (1)

I've recently had problems with my UK MY00 Turbo. It hesitates /judders badly below about 3200 ish revs. It pulls like a train and runs fine above 3200 revs. The car ticks over fine. The car has an AE800 (MY99) ECU and a Prodrive backbox. I normally run the car on unleaded but tried a tank of Super Unleaded and this made no difference.

Any ideas on what this can be or anything I can check???

Thanks,

Ian.

Ian E

iTrader: (1)

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Flat Faw

I have exactly the same set up. i.e. MY00, AE800, PPP back box. The judder you refer to I only experience when cold and it is all down to the clutch. After a few miles, it goes away. If yours does all the time, I would get it checked out.

Ian E

iTrader: (1)

Flat Faw, Thanks for the reply. Judder definitely all the time below a certain revs - not just when cold.

Will try and get it checked out a dealer when I get chance.

Any other ideas?

Cheers,

Ian.

Ian E

iTrader: (1)

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SiPie

Ian

That's the bit that would concern me most initially. You should run it on super all the time and unleaded only as an emergency. Check inside your filler cap and it'll confirm it. You'r car (when sorted) will thank you for this and you will notice a big difference.

Get it checked ASAP as you may think the car is pulling like a train above 3200rpm but the sheer grunt provided by the turbo could be disguising a potential problem

I had exactly the same problem so changed plugs and it still spluttered to around 3k revs then pulled briskly. So off I went to 130mph and BOOM ..... new engine required

Worn HT lead causing a mis-fire, then a build up of fuel, then one big bang and £3,567.85

Get it checked ASAP

Cheers

Boost II

iTrader: (1)

I slightly disagree - a UK standard spec car should run well on 95 RON IMHO but agree will feel very slightly smoother and pull better on super espec Optimax I find.

The fuel filler cap has a generic warning that is displayed throughout europe where some countries have regular grade fuel lower in octane than in the UK and it is this which should not be used.

Sounds like you have an actual fault of some kind?

SiPie

Should being the operative word......

Have you compared running on the 2 fuels???

I mean..... what is the point in buying a performance car and spending a fortune on insurance, modifications, servicing, tyres and buying the best of everything.. then putting a lower Ron rating of petrol in it

Yes UK cars are mapped to run (just) on 95ron but what is the point

Personally SUL and NF octane booster works best for me

Ian has taken the time to stick a prodrive BB on (possibly other modifications) therefore he wants a bit more oomph (don't we all) so IMHO he should be sticking decent juice in it

Boost II

iTrader: (1)

slightly being the operative word here IMHO. I used to notice so little difference between 97 and 95 RON that I didn't bother with Super - mpg only slightly better as well - didn't justify the cost. Once I tried Optimax the car felt more responsive and torquey so thats what I use now.
Admittedly I have the later ECU and also I don't routinely use the red end of the counter so points may be slightly off target, but this guy's description of hesitation/juddering sounds much worse than the very subtle feeling that the car is not so smooth when you run regular unleaded. That's all - each to their own. I would only class super as critical when you start sticking bits on or for an Import

Ian E

iTrader: (1)

Many thanks for the replies - top advice.

SiPie - the 3.5k bill has scared me - but I can't get to a main dealer for a couple of weeks due to holidays etc. I'll get it booked in ASAP.

The juddering / hesitation is far worse than that experienced with the standard AE802 ECU - quite violent and makes car difficult to drive in traffic.

I've always run my Imprezas (previous MY97 and MY00 on unleaded with the occasional tank of Super). I understood that this was ok on UK cars but I think I'll play safe and go for Super Unleaded in the future.

Thanks again for the replies - hope you don't charge £50+ an hour like Scoob Dealers

Cheers,

Ian.

Ian E

iTrader: (1)

Booking the car in for the dealers to have a look at. Any more ideas?

Cheers,

Ian.

5 Type R

MAF Sensor?

dhayzen

No ideas regarding the judder but just wanted to mention my experience of UL & SUL fuels...

When I bought my scooby (an MY00 classic turbo) I ran it on UL95 from BP until 5000 miles when I had trouble starting and stalling left right and centre. It was put down to the idle control valve (plus some other bit that I've forgotten the name of) failing due to the new BP UL low sulphur. The delear showed me the parts and said "these look like they've done 60,000 miles, not 5,000 !!"
they were replaced under warranty but mentioned I should only ever run my scoob on SUL, which I have done [mostly] ever since and no more problems. I did try Optimax but found it not to be as good as BP SUL.

By the way, the parts if out of warranty would have been approx £500.

Dave

submannz

I think the problem may be related to coil pack or plugs or leads, I have experienced this a number of times with my racing bike when either of these are on the way out

Ian E

iTrader: (1)

I've booked the car in to a main dealer on 14th June and won't be using it until then.

Any idea what sort of cost is involved if its HT leads or MAF sensor? How easy will it be to diagnose - will they just swap bits until they sort it or will a computer tell them whats wrong?

Thanks again for all the replies,

Cheers,

Ian.

RB5_245

I reckon my MAF sensor is gone(hope thats it) and it only affects the car 'on boost' as for the fuel concern the car sounds like a tractor on 95 and a kitten when on optimax + booster. Both drive just as smooth.

MAF sensor is roughly 70squid

fdpxfunix

RB5_245

I've had the same with my MY99 wagon over the past couple of months.

It's been in and out of the dealership over the last few weeks, but I now get the car back on Saturday morning ... fingers crossed fixed.

This is what they've done for my Scoob...

Changed the MAF (it had failed)
Changed an Oxygen sensor (it had failed)
Cleaned a Solenoid (boost I think)
Cleaned the Air By-Pass valve
Adjusted the idle speed
Adjusted the boost presuue up by .6 PSI (?)
Checked the ProdDrive BB I've got is not blowing
Checked the CAT's
Removed the plugs and checked condition
Checked HT leads and coil

Ian E

The Subaru diag system picked up the failed Oxygen sensor on my Scoob, but not alot else ... and defo not the MAF ! The 'techy' guys plugged a laptop into the car somewhere and then took it for a spin. The MAF was shown to be faulty by something on the screen not looking right. Someone who knows the engine and ECU should be able to tell you everything that the engine is doing ... or not doing (as the case may be) from this sort of kit. To be honest I was surprised my dealer went to this length ... well done to them.

J.

PS. I let you know how it is next week.





[Edited by fdpxfunix - 5/29/2003 12:54:53 PM]

[Edited by fdpxfunix - 5/29/2003 1:38:35 PM]

fdpxfunix

Still not fixed. Car is back at the dealers next Saturday for me to test drive with a techy and his computer equipment attached.

All credit to my Dealer (Gatwick Subaru) ... they've been very good about the whole thing and have never said "sorry, that's your lot sir".

After speaking with other owners at the Sussex meet on Sunday, the opinion was 'ignition realted'. 100% coil I reckon.

On a plus point ... the car is defo quicker once the turbo is spinning fully now that the boost has been up'd slightly.

4th gear, revs at 3.5K, put your foot down ... and she goes Shame it feels like a 'bag of spanners' most of the time

J.