Inlet pipe(again!)
#1
Can anyone explain if the BPM/MRT or the very expensive STi inlet pipe has any advantages over the oem STi7 one.If it does then why? ie has it a larger diameter,less tortuos path etc.
ps I mean with std turbo.
ps I mean with std turbo.
#2
when i changed to the mrt pipe i noticed higher boost and earlier spool up but it did lean out the fuelling a bit.it gives a superd induction sound.if u have other mods then keep an eye on ur fuelling
#3
Boost rising faster is the main noticeable effect - the turbo feels 'smaller' in its behaviour. Obviously it flow better too, but I have no idea at what point the standard inlet pipe becomes a restriction (bhp presumably would indicate this more simply)?
#4
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Deep
The design creates less turbulence for the air as it accelerates into the turbo so the blades have cleaner, denser air to bite against. Not cheap, but good results.
The design creates less turbulence for the air as it accelerates into the turbo so the blades have cleaner, denser air to bite against. Not cheap, but good results.
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On the contrary surely it should decrease det presuming you are getting a good, cool air supply in the first place?
#11
You're more likely to get a boost spike with one of these fitted, so if that isn't compensated for, you'll get knock...
The MRT/BPM pipe replacement can be done without any special tools (just a lot of WD40 & a few boxes of bandages ) but the standard inlet pipe needs to be snapped to do this. It also takes around 4-6 hours, I'd say, and involves a lot of mucking about with other bits... Stephen Done's website has 'instructions' on it (sorry - can't remember where his site is!) which included everything you need to know, I think.
Just in case you felt like shredding your hands
The MRT/BPM pipe replacement can be done without any special tools (just a lot of WD40 & a few boxes of bandages ) but the standard inlet pipe needs to be snapped to do this. It also takes around 4-6 hours, I'd say, and involves a lot of mucking about with other bits... Stephen Done's website has 'instructions' on it (sorry - can't remember where his site is!) which included everything you need to know, I think.
Just in case you felt like shredding your hands
#12
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It's a bluddy nightmare to fit!
Interesting changes
- wastegate duty cycle has had to be redudced hugely (40% change - relative not absolute)
- better boost above 6000 rpm, standard pipe is very restrictive
- requires significantly less 'spring' in the dump valve - my uprated shimmed spring was causing the turbo to stall (with very impressive noises) with new pipe - now returned to softer spring to get boost released from the manifold - why - God only knows
- much better airflow due to increased diameter and much smoother flow
Took me almost as long to fit fiddling around as my FMIC!
Rannoch with bruised knuckles
PS YOu do not need to remove the inlet manifold if you are prepared to destroy the original pipe
Interesting changes
- wastegate duty cycle has had to be redudced hugely (40% change - relative not absolute)
- better boost above 6000 rpm, standard pipe is very restrictive
- requires significantly less 'spring' in the dump valve - my uprated shimmed spring was causing the turbo to stall (with very impressive noises) with new pipe - now returned to softer spring to get boost released from the manifold - why - God only knows
- much better airflow due to increased diameter and much smoother flow
Took me almost as long to fit fiddling around as my FMIC!
Rannoch with bruised knuckles
PS YOu do not need to remove the inlet manifold if you are prepared to destroy the original pipe
#13
My site is www.steve.ukmail.org/car
I agree, it's a complete nightmare.
Luckily one of my neighbours was fixing his fence nearby helped lean on the pipe while I lined it up onto the turbo. Get lots of WD40 and start in the morning. You'll also need to make a bung to plug a pipe that isn't used on most cars - see my site.
Well worth it though. You get insanely fast throttle response, plus the satisfaction that you did it yourself. Yes, this does risk overboost, so you'll need to adjust the boost in some way, whether that is restrictor change, boost controller or ECU remap.
Sorry...whenever I post, it looks like I am advertising EcuTek tuning. But remember, I wrote the software to tune the ECUs because of all the trouble my car had after fitting all these bits !
Steve
I agree, it's a complete nightmare.
Luckily one of my neighbours was fixing his fence nearby helped lean on the pipe while I lined it up onto the turbo. Get lots of WD40 and start in the morning. You'll also need to make a bung to plug a pipe that isn't used on most cars - see my site.
Well worth it though. You get insanely fast throttle response, plus the satisfaction that you did it yourself. Yes, this does risk overboost, so you'll need to adjust the boost in some way, whether that is restrictor change, boost controller or ECU remap.
Sorry...whenever I post, it looks like I am advertising EcuTek tuning. But remember, I wrote the software to tune the ECUs because of all the trouble my car had after fitting all these bits !
Steve
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It may have been answered elsewhere but I am after one of these for my MY99 and was looking at the MRT option unfortunatley however I'd like to retain my OEM airbox in its current position. (I currently run a cold air intake from low in the guard into the airbox).
I remember reading how some owners had experienced collapse of the intake pipe (at high flow or perhaps a restrictive air filter) with one particular brand but I'm not sure what one it was.
Any help in this area is much appreciated.
All the guys over here who have them fitted comment on the differences the pipe has made to reduction in spool times especially when you've upped the size of your snail (turbo)
TIA
Mark
I remember reading how some owners had experienced collapse of the intake pipe (at high flow or perhaps a restrictive air filter) with one particular brand but I'm not sure what one it was.
Any help in this area is much appreciated.
All the guys over here who have them fitted comment on the differences the pipe has made to reduction in spool times especially when you've upped the size of your snail (turbo)
TIA
Mark
#16
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MRT one doesn't collapse. Someone mentioned to me (was it you Steve?)...after I'd fitted mine ....that threading the new pipe under the manifold would be a lot easier if you thread a piece of rope through turbo and DV openings and just pull the little bugger through.
It *would* have made it much easier Also measure up and cut to length before fitting if required - mine was a 5-10mm too long.
Richard
It *would* have made it much easier Also measure up and cut to length before fitting if required - mine was a 5-10mm too long.
Richard
#17
Thanks for the input chaps.Most of the experience seems to be with the classic.Is it still an advantage to change it on the STi7?
ps I'm sure I know someone who changed it without taking of the inlet and without snapping the oem one on a STi7
ps I'm sure I know someone who changed it without taking of the inlet and without snapping the oem one on a STi7
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I have the open flesh wound still on my finger from Wed pm session with T-uk doing the inlet pipe version II. The compressor inlet on the 20G housing is quite long and then pipe just wouldn't kink enoough and kept coming off. Thanks to Harvey and some 63mm pipe it fits a lot nicer and appears to be staying on well. There is a cut under the inlet manifold, with the pipe sleeving inside.
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