Mike555

Yes I think many people has it there.

WREXY

Yep.

Bob Rawle

Spot on Andy.

bob

Andy Hobson

Many thanks guys - respect !

Turbo_Steve

????????????????

As I understood it the location wasn't that important as long as it is on the block?

WREXY

The location shown seems to be the most favoured place for consistency. Plus Bob Rawle (from B.R Developments) who I think is the UK Link dealer recommends the location. From reading all the good comments on here, cos I'm not in the UK, he is probably the best man with his expertise on the Link products, (and other stuff offcourse ), to take advice from.

Cheers,

Wrexy.



[Edited by WREXY - 4/24/2003 12:47:37 AM]

dowser

I get more activity with it on the i/c mount bracket above this point though....

Richard

Andy Hobson

Perhaps the extra activity is caused by the IC bracket resonating ?

babber

Being a non technical person as far as cars are concerned, do I need to remove the intercooler to fit my sensor ? Is there anything else I need to remove ?

Step by step guide would help

Phill

UHF

You shouldn't need to remove the IC, I'm going to fit my one today and do some pics, so stay tuned

UHF

I did loosen my IC however to get a better angle on the bolt as it was VERY tight, off to B&Q after lunch

babber

Any news ? Have you managed to fit it yet ?

Phill

Andy Hobson

It takes a few minutes to remove the IC and IMHO makes the job *much* easier.

UHF

yeah, i've managed to fit it, works a treat, anyone got any questions, amateur to amateur

SiHethers

UHF

What size is the bolt? How easy is it to feed the wires through the firewall, and what did you use for the 12v supply? Oh, and how did you get to it? Sorry for all the questions, but I think it is better to have a good idea of what you're probably going to have to do, at the start

Cheers

Simon

UHF

OK

I used a 12mm socket, a bendy knuckle thing, and a rachet bar, one hand around the side of the IC to get the socket on then once its snapped its easy to get off.

I got a #412 or #417 bolt from B&Q and hack sawed about 5mm off the end, then put it on the car with the sensor and a washer, turn with hand to get it started in the hole and then gently with the socket set stuff and make sure it pinches the sensor BEFORE the bolt bottoms out in the hole!

I took a 12v IGN Live from the ISO connector on the stereo, and took earth from the same place (Yellow and Brown wires, but use a meter in case yours are different, you should probably use a better earth but it offered the same resistance as the chassis so I used that).

I took the centre console out to do this, basically snaps off at the top and bottom, but you'll need to remove the plastic around the gear stick to get in to it properly, again this just pulls up, be careful not to scratch it as you work around it.

The bulkhead/firewall was eay, if you fumble around on the right hand side of the passenger foor well you'll find some cables going through into the car, these come out to the left of the air con piping (the power for my amps goes through here so I pushed some through, taped it together and pulled it back with my sensor wires.

The sensor wires go through the rubber sleeve supplied and then squash them down on to the metal things supplied, I also use solder for a better connection. Then push these into the plug supplied and pull the sleeve up and plug it on to the sensor

Looks great! Any questions, just ask, but i'm out in about 30mins until late!

UHF

And yes, it is wise to know what you're doing before you start, i was backwards and forwards finding tools and buying the bolt and all sorts, took ages.

SiHethers

Good job UHF

That sounds like pretty comprehensive fitting instructions. All I need now is my Knocklink

Simon

Andy W

Defeat:
Firstly it must be taken into account that I am a mechanical numptie, but I tried to fit my knocklink today and failed.

Could I get at the bolt-hole to fit it: not without removing the I/cooler (is the IC on the STI UK so much bigger that just loosening it isn't enough?) And having read http://www.scoobynet.co.uk/bbs/threa...hreadID=195271 I decided that this sounded too difficult and had the potential that I wouldn't be able to put it all together again, so I have given up and will ge tthe dealer to fit it

Andy

davidmartin861

I just got a knocklink and Bosch sensor and it says in the instructions that a two terminal sensor such as the Bosch has one terminal for signal and one for ground, and to determine which is ground to do a continuity test between the sensor body and the terminals. Trouble is neither of my terminals show a connection to the sensor body.
Anyone else experienced this or have I just been sent a duff sensor?

S.B.

Doesnt matter which way round the wires go.

Andy Hobson

Just fitted the Bosch knock sensor for my knocklink. Based on several slightly conflicting threads on Scoobynet I've gone for a bolt on the main block below the right hand side of the intercooler. The bold was holding a small bracket and it has some numbers etched just to the right. Here's a couple of dubious quality digital snaps taken from each side of the engine bay. Can anyone confirm that this location is OK ?

Thanks,

Andy.






[Edited by Andy Hobson - 4/11/2003 8:36:49 PM]

Bob Rawle

double post

[Edited by Bob Rawle - 4/11/2003 11:56:02 PM]

SCOOBYD00

What a great post.. looking into getting one of these..