Coolent system Help!! please
#1
you want to be filling the system via the header tank cap which is on the left hand side of the engine next to the air filter..!!!
the cap on the right hand side is the overflow tank...!!!
try squeezing the top rad hose while your re-filling go get rid of the air.. make sure your heaters are on the HOT position when your re-filling.
Dan
[Edited by dhorwich - 3/2/2003 7:01:13 PM]
the cap on the right hand side is the overflow tank...!!!
try squeezing the top rad hose while your re-filling go get rid of the air.. make sure your heaters are on the HOT position when your re-filling.
Dan
[Edited by dhorwich - 3/2/2003 7:01:13 PM]
#2
Last night my top hose split whilst driving ( Impreza WRX my94 )
Today i replaced the hose and filled the system through the coolent level lid (right hand side of engine)
Problem now is Heater blows cold air when I stop or park then resumes to blow hot when i drive or rev the engine?
I have left the engine running for a long time in a vein attempt to clear the coolent system of any air locks with no success.
Can any one HELP me on any way to clear this. as i know some manafacturers have a special way of bleeding the system
In Hope Mick
Today i replaced the hose and filled the system through the coolent level lid (right hand side of engine)
Problem now is Heater blows cold air when I stop or park then resumes to blow hot when i drive or rev the engine?
I have left the engine running for a long time in a vein attempt to clear the coolent system of any air locks with no success.
Can any one HELP me on any way to clear this. as i know some manafacturers have a special way of bleeding the system
In Hope Mick
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#8
nah the squeezing didnt work for me
what i did was warmed it up to running temp, then i took rad cap off. Hold the revs at 4000 rpm odd for about a minute and ease off, the coolant should all bubble over the side and make a ruddy mess as the air is expelled, repeat until it dont do it, topping up again after each burst. then top up again and ur done.
what i did was warmed it up to running temp, then i took rad cap off. Hold the revs at 4000 rpm odd for about a minute and ease off, the coolant should all bubble over the side and make a ruddy mess as the air is expelled, repeat until it dont do it, topping up again after each burst. then top up again and ur done.
#9
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Here is what i did..
Fill header tank to half way an dkeep doing it until it no longer drains down into the engine, then.. take the turbo water pipe off of the top of the header tank and keep filling the pipe slowly, you will hear the air bubbles escaping..
After a while the air bubbles will stop and the water level in teh header tank will rise as you put more water down the turbo water pipe.. replace the turbo water hose when the water starts to rise in the header tank replace the turbo water hose back on the HT..
Then, remove the small hose on the radiator that runs to the HT, its the small hose about 1/3 of the way down the HT, not the one that goes from teh neck of the HT to the overflow.
Once you have taken the small hose off of the header tank end keep filling the HT to half way until the water is flowing out clearly (no air) from the small hose out of the rad.
This means that there should be no air in most of your system.
Then, (not critising SIWX) but do not over fill the header tank, you want to try and spill as little water as possible so that you know there are no leaks when you have finished.. ie. no water anywhere..
Make sure all pipes are tight and make sure the water level is still about half way in the header tank.. Then start the engine (with the rad cap off).
Keep the car at idle and keep topping the HT up to about half way until it stays at about half way, you can pump the top rad hose slowly whilst the engine is running to aid the process..
Once you are happy that teh water level is staying at about half way fill the header tank to approx 3/4 and put the rad cap on..
With the engine still running let eth car warm up, checking for leaks..
Once the temp gauge starts to register, make sure that both heater hoses at the back of the engine are warm/hot.. This will show that you have some circulation.
Let the car build up to normal temp and then check that the bottom rad hose starts to get warm/hot..
Once you are happy with all this, switch the car off and leave for a couple of hours to get cold/colder
Remove the rad cap and check the water level (the car MUST be cold before removing the rad cap to save burning yourself and to save losing any water.. Check that the water level is 3/4.. if it has gone down top up to 3/4 and that should be about it..
This may ba a bit of a long way of doing it but the scoob water system is a pig to bleed and this process has worked every time for me after changing my head gaskets thinking i had a n air lock
Rob
just to add, your car must have a Header tank, it is mounted to the left of your engine just behind your rad on top of the manifold, it has a Rad cap on top of it and has a number of pipes going to it.. one of which runs to the top left of your radiator
Here is where it is.. below
[Edited by tweenierob - 3/3/2003 12:26:33 PM]
Fill header tank to half way an dkeep doing it until it no longer drains down into the engine, then.. take the turbo water pipe off of the top of the header tank and keep filling the pipe slowly, you will hear the air bubbles escaping..
After a while the air bubbles will stop and the water level in teh header tank will rise as you put more water down the turbo water pipe.. replace the turbo water hose when the water starts to rise in the header tank replace the turbo water hose back on the HT..
Then, remove the small hose on the radiator that runs to the HT, its the small hose about 1/3 of the way down the HT, not the one that goes from teh neck of the HT to the overflow.
Once you have taken the small hose off of the header tank end keep filling the HT to half way until the water is flowing out clearly (no air) from the small hose out of the rad.
This means that there should be no air in most of your system.
Then, (not critising SIWX) but do not over fill the header tank, you want to try and spill as little water as possible so that you know there are no leaks when you have finished.. ie. no water anywhere..
Make sure all pipes are tight and make sure the water level is still about half way in the header tank.. Then start the engine (with the rad cap off).
Keep the car at idle and keep topping the HT up to about half way until it stays at about half way, you can pump the top rad hose slowly whilst the engine is running to aid the process..
Once you are happy that teh water level is staying at about half way fill the header tank to approx 3/4 and put the rad cap on..
With the engine still running let eth car warm up, checking for leaks..
Once the temp gauge starts to register, make sure that both heater hoses at the back of the engine are warm/hot.. This will show that you have some circulation.
Let the car build up to normal temp and then check that the bottom rad hose starts to get warm/hot..
Once you are happy with all this, switch the car off and leave for a couple of hours to get cold/colder
Remove the rad cap and check the water level (the car MUST be cold before removing the rad cap to save burning yourself and to save losing any water.. Check that the water level is 3/4.. if it has gone down top up to 3/4 and that should be about it..
This may ba a bit of a long way of doing it but the scoob water system is a pig to bleed and this process has worked every time for me after changing my head gaskets thinking i had a n air lock
Rob
just to add, your car must have a Header tank, it is mounted to the left of your engine just behind your rad on top of the manifold, it has a Rad cap on top of it and has a number of pipes going to it.. one of which runs to the top left of your radiator
Here is where it is.. below
[Edited by tweenierob - 3/3/2003 12:26:33 PM]
#12
What a lemon i am. Been looking for a plastic header tank on the left hand side of the engine bay (near air filter)
Even had my hand on top of it at one stage doh!!!
Thanks very much Rob well explained..
cheers Mick
[Edited by ImprezaWRX - 3/3/2003 12:39:33 PM]
Even had my hand on top of it at one stage doh!!!
Thanks very much Rob well explained..
cheers Mick
[Edited by ImprezaWRX - 3/3/2003 12:39:33 PM]
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